EDMO

I'm almost sure that T88 was the original glue used to make the ribs.  Your description fits it too.  The gray stuff (9460) will work too if you don't want to buy a tube of T88 just to make one rib.  EDMO

It's too dark to be out joyriding in his new bird, so where is the Airworthiness Inspection report that Joey was supposed to have today?  Darn it Joey, you are keeping us in suspense - give us some kind of report!  Hope it is good.  I hope you are not on your way to play in the sandbox or to some nice island?  EDMO

To me, Folding wings is like Opening doors - anything built to hinge is designed to be moveable and does not require any other action.   EDMO

That's true Jim - I was thinking about the guy with the shimmy problem - seemed like more connections and redundancy would be better IMO.  I think Chris B put dual rods on his new nosewheel.  EDMO

Maybe we need to write a pilot's pre-flight checklist for those idiots - Maybe say, "Unfold and pin wings before takeoff"!  ;<)  EDMO

I don't like "Ramp Checkers" most of them don't know what they are doing and are bored and curious.  They ramp-checked my Ercoupe once because they didn't have a clue about it and were just nosey - At least those were polite and only asked questions like they had never seen an Ercoupe before.  The ones who checked my Cessna and Cherokee had at least read the books.  Guess there aren't many books on Avids and Kitfoxes unless you are a builder, but there are FARs they could at least read!  EDMO

Steve,  I am not an Avid owner, but I have been told that:  1.  The springs should return the nosewheel to straight when rolling.  2.  From what I have been told, the tie rod should go to the pedal that you push to make the plane turn opposite of the way the prop wants to turn the plane on takeoff, depending on whether you have a right-turning or left-turning prop.  I think tie rods to both center pedals would be better, but guess that was not the way it was designed. 

EDMO 

You were correct.  As the owner of an Experimental, you can do all maintenance, and as an A&P you can do condition inspections.  The builder was legal in doing a condition inspection too if he had a repairman's certificate or A&P number - He also had to do one before Airworthiness Inspection and that one does not require any certificate.  Unfolding wings does not require an inspection, as it is part of preflight duties of the pilot.  Those guys need to get educated enough to quit the BS!  Maybe read the FAR's for a change?  They probably knew that it was BS or they would have written you up on the spot!

 Nice looking bird.  EDMO (A&P/AMT)

I think the limiting cruise factor on the early wings is the drag factor of the bubble that forms in the undercamber - The KF4 and later Riblett airfoil eliminates that factor.  Windscreens are the same, unless you want to buy the aftermarket (from LPS?), all the rest are only involved in weight of plane.  The Kitfox 4-1050 has a VNE of 125 and I believe it had same lift struts and tail as the KF3 - These were made heavier on the Kitfox 4-1200 and the tail made taller.  At least you should be burning less fuel at cruise speeds equal to what the undercambered wings fly at because of less drag.

   I modified my undercambered ribs to be more like the Riblett by adding an extension under them with another ribcap on it, but I kept the rib tail hangers and made separate flaps and ailerons instead of the flaperons of the early models - I haven't completed the plane, but hoping someone will someday.   EDMO

Totally agree, and see how your measurements compare to the manual - Good way to have fun with on non-flying day.

Guess today is your big inspection day - Hoping to get a good report soon!    EdMO

The best thing about this site, except for the excellent members, is that you have the freedom to express any thoughts and not be banned for deviations from "standard" building of your bird.  You might get some better ideas, or negative input, or warnings that what you are doing may not be safe, but we believe "to each his own", and no one has to "conform".  Leni just lets us post up, and I think he enjoys a good battle!  Ha!  A lot of have flown "real" planes, but now enjoy our "toys" even more.   Post up about your toys - We love photos.  EDMO 

Joey,  The pilot arm should not be at the back of your butt or seat back - it is about the center of mass of your body. probably about where your belt buckle is located, or center of thigh - Of course that is for an FAA standard 170 lb pilot - others will vary, but the measurement is standard - measure that too from leading edge of wings before going on back to baggage and you may find the baggage rear is farther than you thought.  Kitfox 4 gives 18.3" for pilot, and 40.5" for baggage sack.  EDMO

Even though the wings have stalled on landing there should be enough elevator power to keep the nose wheel off the ground at lower speeds - with power on, the nose should be able to raise long before stall speed is reached on takeoff.  EDMO

Welcome Ronin,  We like building photos - Keep posting.  Are you buying new tanks?  EDMO

I would think that you would measure to the center of baggage instead of the rear?  Probably not too much difference tho?  Better safe than sorry.  EDMO

Where is the one that says, "This is an Experimental plane built by Amateurs - Do you really want to fly in it?"   Ha!

Wishing you a very good inspection report.    EDMO

As Pocahantis once said, "Welcome Columbus"!   Any questions you have will probably get several (maybe different) answers.  EDMO

Totally agree Chris - I could do almost the same thing with my Cessna 150 - With full up elevator and power, the plane would almost be on the tail with  or without brakes set - soft field takeoffs were on the mains only.  The Ercoupe was the opposite - it was nose heavy, and the nosewheel had to be kept on the ground for steering until ready to rotate.   Both had shimmy dampeners.   EDMO

Is he sure that it is not his tire out of balance?  Out of round?   Some have put stronger springs on the Avid nosegear.  Does he only have a steering rod on the right pedal or both sides - That can make a huge difference.  Any slack in linkage can let it shimmy.  Is there a way to put a shimmy damper on it?  The 20 lb force on tire to turn wheel can easily be overcome by your legs - they will hardly notice it.  EdMO

Doug,  I only have a very few days before next Chemo when I am not weak, tired and feel bad bone pains.  Last Chemo is Jan. 31, Feb. 1 & 2, then about 2 weeks to recover from that.  Should start radiation sometime after Chemo.  Lots of time to keep up with the news on FOX.  I agree.  EDMO

Pumps can be piped up either way, depending on the pump.  Some have check valve(s) and some don't (both forward and back check valves).  Facet site has a chart with lots of valves, model numbers, pressures they produce, how high they will lift fuel, whether they have forward check valves, backward check valves, both, or no check valves, and type of fittings.  The round ones (Gold series?) have removable screens in them.  I like them better.   All of them push fuel up to some height - they don't pull.   I might have one, or two, to sell if you need one, either one square or two round, depending on what you need.  I don't know prices.  EDMO

James,  After you type what you want for a post, scroll down and you will see "choose files" you can click on that and then open any photo on your computer and it will load them to the post in a few seconds - you can do this as many times as you want to - then submit post with photos.    I don't know anything about photos on a phone.  EDMO

Agree - I watch FOX News - All the other channels are nothing but Fake Garbage!  EDMO

Jim Chuk posted some info on replacing bungees some time back - I think he said to order them in 19 or 23 foot lengths, (BUT don't go by what I say), and you would have a foot or so left to pull on and cut off when finished.   Maybe this was enough for 2?   I don't know where the post is.  EDMO

Not exact what I had in mind - You still have a potential crack point at two places now - IMO, the sides should extend from one end of the bracket to the other - past the bolts.  But you couldn't do that on the uppen end because of the bend without welding.  EDMO