Av8r_Sed

On my way home from the Kitfox Fly-in I started to accumulate a fine mist of oil on my windshield and cowling.  It became apparent it was gear oil and I assumed it was a bad front propeller shaft seal on the C-Gearbox.  I decreased my leg lengths, cleaned up at each stop and added gear oil as necessary.  Made it home to Chicago and pulled the front half of the gearbox to replace the seal.  I realized I didn't have the proper gear puller, wrench and jig to do it myself so I took it into Leading Edge Airfoils for them to do it.  I was surprised this past Monday when they informed me the housing was cracked almost in half.  To their credit, L.E.A.F. didn't charge me even though they disassembled and degreased all the parts.

Anybody else experience this type of failure?

I need to replace the front gearbox casting from an early 90's Greyhead C-Gearbox.  Anybody have one, or a gearbox available?

HACmac mixture control is still available: HacMan Mixture Control

I wouldn't fly a two stroke without one  

Thanks for your service and all the pics, Joey. I found the Wake Is ones particularly interesting. Such a small place that holds a lot of history. 

Mine sat for years and needed the rebuild, including replacing the Buna-N plug, part 17, on the exploded view. Takes a little patience to glue them on and sand them flat.

For what it's worth, those socket cap hex bleeder screws don't really have to be tight. The top of the resevoir is at atmospheric pressure. The bleeders just stop the brake fluid from splashing out. I usually get a little leakage around the shaft for a bit after I do the bleed. 

Isn't this what Birddog is selling in this same subforum? Did it already sell or something?

http://www.avidfoxflyers.com/index.php?/topic/5312-wing-fiberglass/

Gascolator to Mikuni fuel pump and carbs is run in smaller, rubber, automotive hose with fire sleeve protection.  This has proved very durable.

I don't think there's any good tygon type tubing.  I still use it for my fuel sight gauges and vent line from the header tank.  Also I use it on my HacMan mixture control.  I pretty much replace it every year. 

The Gates barricade hose is good stuff other than having a significantly large O.D.  I use that for my main fuel lines to the header tank.  Aluminum after that up to the gascolater on the firewall.

When I was looking for one before, I think it was the #13 I was after. The O-ring idea might work.  Even if it leaks a little it would probably be fine. As it is, I drilled the recommended weep hole in the thermostat so it leaks anyway. 

Can you post the gasket PN from CPS?  The official Rotax gasket is "special" and cost somewhere in the $30 range.  I did like you and found a used gasket and used an OMC thermostat, but the rubber won't last forever.

Mine are different.  Only 45 degree and they're threaded in with a locking nut. I believe I got them off a moped site.  The only drawback is I can't extract the cable with the ferrule intact.  I made these cables up custom for my installation.

I've got the Grove aluminum one circa about 1993.  I'm not sure they make those anymore, although they're making a new one for the SS.

I tightened up the pivot bolt and it's much happier now. No shimmy. Thanks again nlappos!

I would follow the same protocol. As long as you can keep it within temperature limits, the process is tedious but not difficult. 

If those are paper element fuel filters feeding the carbs, try to replace with a stainless mesh or fiber type.  If the paper element ever picks up some water it will adsorb and can block flow.

Thanks nlappos. I'll give that a go. 

I recently switched from the solid Maule tailwheel to an 8" Matco pneumatic single arm.  Any comments on the setup?  I've flown it a little and thought I had a little shimmy on my last landing which surprised me a little since I think I've got enough positive caster angle.  The ride is much smoother and I can now unlock and spin in either direction.

OK, Cirrus drivers are different animals than we are, but who would want to waste $5k on a logo watch?

My tube is painted with epoxy chromate primer. I lube it and the bearing at every annual with white lithium grease. 

I see you have the Grove aluminum tailspring. I have one too and you'll find that plus the solid Maule tailwheel make for a jarring ride if you hit cracks in the pavement. I recently upgraded to a Matco pnematic tailwheel and it's smoothed the ride appreciably. Many will warn you away from the Maule.  I'm one of the lucky few who didn't have any issues with it other than the harsh ride.

I note some of the steering chain components look non-aviation grade. Might want to revisit that. 

Glad you love your job.  We're all happy you're on the job for us.

Which is older, your Avid or your day job ride?

How long have you been into that hobby, Doug?

Is anyone running the Mercotac 250-HS with a medium IVO IFA?  I'm concerned its 4 Amp rating is a little dainty to go with the gear motor on the medium.  Also, does anyone know an economical way to purchase one?  Most listings I find have you email for a quote.  I know that's code for big bucks at quantity one.

You may or may not be aware that you can soften the hysol with a heat gun (carefully).  It makes removal much easier.

I'd never seen one either.  I should have read the rest of the posts before googling.

Thanks for the great pics Joey!