Av8r_Sed

Good to hear you got her signed off and in the air.  Great Job!  Maybe we'll see a flight test video?

My 582 exhaust is ceramic coated. It's thin, durable, gets the heat out and is easy to inspect. I would definitely do it again. 

That grey head looks so nice and clean. How many hours are on it?  I'm coming up on 300 hours this year and may follow your lead. I really appreciate the tear down pics.

I noticed the EGT locations look to be possibly too close to the manifold flange. See: http://www.ultralightnews.ca/exhaustsystems/egt_probelocation.htm

It would be a good time to measure them and remedy if you think it’s worthwhile. 

Would the world as we know it cease to exist if he picked another color for his next? Some people are just set in their ways, I guess. I hope he shares with his friends. 

Whoops, I posted thinking about the injection pump.  There's a bleeder on the far side of the engine you should open up to purge the lines.  Shouldn't have to pre fill.

I thought it might have a registration issue but N933RB looks legit on the FAA registry. Why hasn't someone snapped this one up?

Scam I believe. Ask for pics and you won't get any from a guy who says he's in France. Asking prices are too low. 

The mass moment of inertia on the 72” square tipped Warp probably exceeds the capacity of the C gearbox (6000 kg-cm^2). Most opt for the taper tip if they're using a three blade Warp. 

No real secrets. You need to take off the cover after draining the gear oil to get to 4 of the 8 mounting bolts holding the gearbox to engine. Taking off the rubber donut is straight forward. Reinstalling it on the next engine reqires a compression clamp to line up the holes. 

Plan on purchasing a new cover gasket. I get mine from JBM Indusries.  http://jbmindustries.com

Bear Perkins sells a sight tube kit that's easy to install. No threaded fittings. It works well in realatively thin fiberglass tanks. 

I really like that one with Ty trailing fuel from his left wing vent.  All I can think of is the movies where someone then tosses a lighter.

Nice pics, Joey.  Hope to see more.

For a shop installation, some use refrigerated air dryers.  A cheapo is available from HF https://www.harborfreight.com/compressed-air-dryer-40211.html  Still, $400 and only worth it if you do a lot of blasting and painting.  Garage Journal has a number of compressor/ dryer threads with some decent homebrew solutions.

Sounds like moisture in your blasting pot.  Dryer not working well?

Those are Matco MC-1's.  Out of production, but you can still buy rebuild kits.  As long as the rubber boots are in good shape, they should be serviceable.  Not sure if you can hook them up in tandem to have brakes on passenger side.

Thanks for the info.  Makes me a little jealous.  No place to blast, even if I had the equipment.  I hope to find a deal like Larry did to blast and powdercoat when I'm ready.

JimChuk,

I'm amazed at what you can do with simple home shop tools!   Did you raid the local public works department?

How many pounds of sand did that take?

I don't know what the draw is, but I used 4 gauge copper to wire it and it spins right up. 

Give 'em hell, Ed. You're a tough SOB, aren't you?  My thoughts are with you. Gotta get through the initial rounds so you can get back to the shop.

They're continuing to manufacture the B and E. Not sure if you can blank off the starter area on the E, but I would guess you can. 

For the record, I got a reply back from RotaxRick today saying he's never seen one crack this way either. 

He also says C Box gearboxes and parts are starting to dry up with Rotax going out of production on these and with all the Apex and RX-1 conversions going on now. 

This forum is great! I should have the case I need on the way tomorrow from LSaupe. 

Thanks Ed. I did notice those on eBay. I'd hate to buy a whole gearbox for just the front cover. I've got a list of places to call to see what I can drum up if no one here has one laying around.  

I'm watching with interest, JimChuck.  I just picked up a partially completed Model IV kit.  I've got to back up a little and take care of some corrosion, old fuel tanks and the like before any progress starts.  It'll be interesting to see how light you'll be able to keep it.

I can try welding it, but castings are a crap shoot, especially after they're oil impregnated.  First choice would be to find a used part.  I could buy new from Rotax, but I'd rather light six Benjamins on fire before I hand over that much cash to the Austrians.

That's a good method.  I was aware of the template generator, but didn't figure out the best way to handle the two ends.