High Country

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Posts posted by High Country

  4. Posted

    Thanks for the info, do you think i will have any problems with ventilation on my porch if i use the poly fiber system, I have a box fan in the window bringing in fresh warm air and another at the other end blowing out. Of course if it is pretty easy to do a nice patch with the stewart system i may just go that route. As for the PPG epoxy primer is there PPG epoxy paint that i could use? I'm still not sold on one system or the other.

    -Robert-

  6. Posted

    So I'm hoping to paint my airframe this week so i can get it off the porch and start building my wings. I'm still undecided on which system to use and was hoping to get some good persuasion one way or the other. I was originally planning to use the Stewart system primarily due to the lack of fumes as I'm doing my whole build on my porch. However my concern is how difficult is it to make repairs to. Not that I want to but knowing where I plan to fly its bound to get a hole or two at some point. I was reading that the stits poly fiber system is easy to make repairs to and you never new they were there but I'm a bit concerned with the fumes while applying it. What would you do? Next question (the reason I'm asking this now) is what paint should i use to paint my airframe, it has already been primed and powder coated but its been sitting a while and is stained, I've lightly sanded it and its ready for paint. I was thinking of an automotive enamel its a lot cheaper than using the "systems" paint that I will use on the fabric. I just want to know that whatever it is I will have a good strong bond for the fabric to adhere to.

    -Robert-

    p.s. pics are of my "shop" its heated via opening a window to the house and using a box fan behind the wood stove.

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  7. Posted

    The old roll of lexan that i currently have does have the drawings on it to cut it out so i think that i will make it into a complete windshield and when i like it i will trace it onto the new lexan. also i do have a band saw and scroll saw these should cut the lexan nicely right?

    -Robert-

  10. Posted · Edited by High Country

    So you have now convinced me to toss out my aluminum sheet and make my own instrument panel. after searching for information on fiberglass i got side tracked into the world of carbon fiber. Seems fairly easy to work with, light weight, strong, and you don't have to paint it. Here is a kit for small parts that i believe will be enough to make a small instrument panel for my B Flyer. http://www.eastbaycomposites.com/products/carbon-fiber-fabrication-kit and bigger kit here http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carbon-Fiber-Kit-cloth-epoxy-TRIPLE-SIZE-BEST-DEAL-/190347868474#vi-content

    -Robert-

  13. Posted

    Craig,

    I am in the building process so the method that I am describing is not proven but what I am doing. I bent some aluminum channels 8" long, cut them to fit the rib tails that the flaperons attach to, with Hysol glued them on and then installed one hard rivet through them. I am attaching some photos that may make this clearer. In your case, glue the broken tail on with some epoxy first and then clad the tip as described.

    Iv'e been having similar thoughts. what material did you use for this. how thick is it. and where did you get it.

    Thanks

    -Robert-

  14. Posted · Edited by High Country

    so 6 one way and half a dozen the other??? Does anyone know if Lexan has any UV resistance that would make it better. I do have the old paper backed stuff (.054)and when i tried pealing a piece off it doesn't want to come apart and it leaves a mess on the lexan so im just going to replace it anyways. I was thinking of ending the windshield piece on the front spar carry through tube and having the skylight back be a second piece that is the darker smoke color to keep the sun out. I'm also thinking about making my own "bubble" doors. My thought is to leave the center tube across the door and add a second one that attaches at the same points and make it bend out about 3" then bend the lexan around it then you would still have the original bar for an arm rest. Has anyone tried this? can the lexan bend in all these different ways without breaking and look good. I've never worked with lexan before.

    -Robert-

  15. Posted

    Did you build this panel from scratch or did you have some sort of "blank" to work with. if so where did you get it? Which would be better fiberglass or aluminum?

    -Robert-

  16. Posted

    The lexan that came with my kit is very old and I'm afraid that it is going to crack just trying to unroll it (been packed since 1986) so im looking at what to get I was wondering if this PETG stuff may be a good option. http://www.ebay.com/itm/PETG-Plastic-Sheet-060-x-48-x-96-Clear-Lexan-Acrylic-/360431555926?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53eb651556 has anyone actually used it how is it different from regular lexan?

    -Robert-

  17. Posted

    I had the manual trim cable on mine which did not work, so I took the cable out and installed a turnbuckle on my trim tab on the elevator. I go out and fly to see which way I have to trim it. When I get back on the ground I make a few turns on the tab, then go fly agin. I adjust it to fly straight and level at cruising speed. I only have to make this adjustment when I put my ski's on and again when I take them off. Then if I need to tweek it, I use the flaperons for down trim and the trim handle for up. I just used a .25 spring from the hardware store and connected it from my trim handle to the control column. Simple, light weight and cheap.

    What did not work with the cable design, and which one did you use? I think that i could possibly just go with the rans wheel in front of the flap handle mounted in the center just off the floor and it should work just fine.

    -Robert-

  18. Posted

    I have a Rotax 532 so I'm pretty limited on power output (10 amps) so i am trying to make as much manual or self powered as possible to reserve the power for lights

    -Robert-

  19. Posted

    I know its a bit old but it thought i would give :2cent: from the responders side of things. I'm an emergency dispatcher for sheriff, fire, and Mountain Search and Rescue. It seems like we send out search parties several times a year usually in fall hunting season or winter. Many times it will take us days or even weeks to find the person(s) but every time we have gone after a person who set off their SPOT we were there within hours. I'm definitely going to get one once i get my bird off the ground. It would be nice to be able to set it off from another source ie. you've been missing for a day and your wife could set it off to start a search just in case something really bad happened and you couldn't set it off your self. hmmm maybe i should suggest this to the SPOT company.

    -Robert-

  20. Posted · Edited by High Country

    Sorry to bring up old posts but I've been looking into doing a trim tab on my avid. i have already installed a Model IV elevator with the tab but am now looking for a way to make it function. I really like the idea of a mechanical system such as this one if i could find a long enough cable to reach the trim tab, I'm thinking that the rans cable might work aircraft spruce part# 11-09970. I don't really have enough room in my B model for the wheel on the floor mount. Does anyone have any more current reports of this system, do you think it will hook up to the rans cable? Sounds like just what I'm looking for.

    -Robert-

  23. Posted · Edited by High Country

    Thats exactly what i was looking for. Thanks. sure glad i waited to have these made, i almost had two short cables. :hammerhead:

    -Robert-

  25. Posted

    Thanks for the pics of the mount locations. This does bring up yet another question though. It seems to me that the cable for the right side would be just a bit longer than the one on the left, Is this correct? based off of the part# on the tag in the photo this cable is 60" long how long is the other one?

    sorry to keep asking questions but i want to get it right the first time.

    -Robert-