High Country

I used the cheap go-no-go gauge that aircraft spruce sales and all my crimps checked out good. Also i had an A&P check it out and he said I was good to go. These crimpers are pretty heavy and feel very solid to me.

-Robert-

I wasn't sure where to put this so if someone wants to move it to a better location feel free to do so, thanks

I was recently in need of a cable swagging tool to make my rudder cables but found that they are pretty expensive for just a couple of simple crimps. In my search however i found that home depot has a pretty good quality one for only $19.97 sku#566745 http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Hand-Tools-Specialty-Tools/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xk4Zapul/R-100243794/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051 and to make it better home depot will accept all competitors coupons and harbor freight has 20% off coupons in every Sunday paper so total price $15.98 sure beats $100.00 bucks for a couple quick crimps. anyways hope it helps someone.

-Robert-

Aluminum guard that sets over mixer unit under seat to prevent a real bad day.

-Robert-

[Edit] re-size pics

(He did comment that you could add the phone number, too.. )

Just wanted to wish everyone a very Happy Easter. I hope you all have a good time with your families today. Jesus Christ is risen and is alive and well to day!!! Praise God.

Here are a couple more pics after the first coat of paint was put on. I will try to keep them coming as I remember to do so. the last one is a general shot of the whole front area the tube across the back holds the aluminum guard and the small tube pointing up with the square plate supports the guard in the middle, the front hooks to the bungie truss, sorry I forgot to take pics of the aluminum guard I will try to remember for the next post.

-Robert-

[Edit] resized pics

Q-

Nice work. Looking at the way you have the flap handle and the arm going to the F7s attached or potentially attached, once the bushings are welded to the truss, isn't the shaft attaching them together forever trapped between the welded on bushings? On the Avid Plus the support for the far left side of the cross shaft is a nylon pillow block sort of affair. This allows for applying some friction, but also you can remove the shaft so you can lube it or replace it if needed. Just wondering.

Jack

A- Yes, i thought it all through and how I wanted to do it where I could remove it but at midnight tired, low blood sugar, and Ta Da now i don't want to change it but oh well I don't think its an area of too much concern i can lube it the way it is just not as easy or well as I could if i could remove it. If I were to do it again I would make it removable and also add a grease fitting to the housing tube for ease of lubricating. hind site is always 20/20 I will just be happy with what I have for now.

-Robert-

My 1987 model 1 kitfox also came with a new 532.

I had the points ignition switched out for snowmobile ignition and flew it for 14 years and 450 hours.

The 532 with snowmobile ignition idles at a lower RPM and smoother than my 582 due to the ignition retard feature of the snowmobile ignition.

Merle Williams in arizona has experience with the 583.

The 532 never let me down and I would use yours since you have it.

Herman

Thanks for the input guys. I think i will just go with my 532 for now until i can afford what i really want. If I'm not mistaken the exhaust and radiator should be the same for both the 532 and 582 so that will save me a bit when the time comes to.

-Herman- do you remember what ignition it was you put into your 532? this i may be interested in doing.

-Robert-

Oh boy.... Here we go. Yes the 583 is a snowmobile engine. Yes it has single ignition, yes it has RAVE valves, yes it needs a custom exhaust to get anywhere near 97hp, yes it runs great if you put your throttle at 7000 rpm and leave there, yes it's a huge pain in the ass to tune, and yes it has NO midrange. Steve Beatty of Airscrew performance swears by them and will do anything he can to get you to trade your 582 for one. I've known of two guys that had them and both finally ended up with a 582 in the end after lots of money and lots of wasted time trying to get them to run the way they wanted them to.

So Joey how do you really feel about it?

Isn't the 583 a single ignition snowmobile engine? Will the gearbox bolt to it without modification?

From what I've red "yes" and "yes"

I have a new Rotax 532 w gear box and prop that came with my kit, i would like to put a 582 on it but would rather just get flying than wait until I can afford one. I see i can pick up a 583 for around 500.00 They claim to have 97 HP why don't we see more of these being used on Avids and Kitfoxes? is this a good alternative or am i better off just going with my 532 until i can afford to go to the 582.

-Robert-

I'm still working on the new flap handle but will post pics as i make progress but in the meantime here are a couple to get you started.

Note: the linkage going back to attach to the F7 (soon to be F7-A's) will be an "L" shape rather than the "T" shape that the Airdale had. I had to do this to accommodate for my narrower airframe to clear part of the bungee truss. Should work just the same though.

[Edit] resize pics

More pictures of the rear cable mounts, i drilled the mount hole where i believe it goes however i made one on either side as well to give me the ability to adjust fore and aft as necessary.

[Edit] resize pics

So after all of your help with information and photos I think I have gotten the conversion figured out for my Avid Flyer model B so I thought I would post up some pictures of my progress just in case anyone else was interested in attempting it themselves.

ye old disclaimer, this is only my way of doing this conversion and if you decide to try it yourself and die its not my fault. there now you've been told. have fun and be safe.

The main mixer unit is located under the left seat... Hopefully the pics can say the rest.

I put the VG under the tail yesterday

now it's more easy to land at low speed with engine on idle (slow motion)

before the avid was like a flying "iron" now it is more light than before (don't have to use full trim)

MicheL

Do you have any specific gain data from your V.G's... any pics?

-Robert-

I used heavy fabric on the belly and light fabric on the rest of the airplane. Everything looks like new except the belly fabric.

How old is your fabric and which "system" did you use to cover it with. Also why do you think the belly fabric is not so good, just because of off airfield landings or do you think its a problem with the fabric. if you were to do it again would you change anything? Sorry for all the questions

-Robert-

what trim setup would you guys recommend and how many amps does it draw. it seems that an electric system would be the easiest way to go I'm just still a bit concerned about the power draw.

-Robert-

edit: ok so i think the Ray Allen T2-7A Servo with .7" travel should work fine and only has .5 amp draw. Is this correct. If so this may be my ticket.http://www.rayallencompany.com/products/trimsystems.html

Thanks for the heads up Ed but after speaking with Brett we decided that this was the safest route to go. He said that the KF's get away with the .065 spars by using a big aluminum insert to reinforce it. I discussed this route with Brett but we decided that it wouldn't save any money or weight so i would rather send my money to Airdale. and as for the heaver fabric i had the lighter stuff on my skyraider and poked small holes in it when turning around at the end of my airfield and the brush there is really not that bad. I've thought of mixing up the light fabric with the heavy fabric but think its just best that I use all heavy. If i was to use light fabric for the top sides how long do you think it would last before it needed replaced again?

-Robert-

Did you also use the 13 Gal wing tanks that Brett sells? That is what I'm planning to use but Brett thought i may have to make some strips of wood to glue between the tank and the fabric. Have you gotten this far yet? I ordered my new spars and the extra ribs from Brett so I'm just waiting for parts to start my wings. Brett also suggested that i use the standard ribs with the tails just as the original HH wing had then i can try using the flapperon close to the fuselage and if i don't like it i will have the extra mount out at the end and he makes a kit to just move it over. then i don't have to extend it. What have you done regarding the flapperons. pics would be great. Nice to know I'm not the first guinea pig

-Robert-

Needing money to continue building so I'm getting rid of the parts that I don't need. all parts are from a 1986 B Flyer and have never been used. 4 short .065 speedwing spars with white powder coat $400.00 Nose tank with instrument panel $75.00 maule tail wheel with leaf spring new 150.00

-Robert-

So I'm thinking about just replacing the spars with HH spars this will give me the extension and thickness .083 that i need then I'm thinking I will just use speed wing ribs on them but give them the closer spacing of the HH wing. This should give the strength, with reasonable STOL and speed performance and i will not have to replace all my ribs. good idea, bad idea?

-Robert-

I covered my flaps and ailerons and even did the brush coats in the basement of my house,never heard anything bad about the caustics of Stewart Systems.My friend rebuilds Super Cubs and its the only system he will use..........

Thanks, Thats very good to know seeing as I'm doing it on my enclosed porch

I already have primer and powder coat on it i just want to change the color and make it look nice. I figure a nice gloss gray possibly even metallic will be nice and contrast the white and red that will be my final coats on the fabric.

So I'm hoping to start my wings soon and am now having more ideas and can't seem to decide whats best. I currently have the speed wing kit with the .065 spars. I want to get 1050 lbs MTOW and still get reasonable performance out of it. I like the idea of keeping the wings short so i will not have to build as big of a trailer to keep it in. On the other hand i want good performance out of it at gross. I have a Rotax 532 at this time that i plan to use but eventually want to replace it with a 582. I'm shooting for around 550lbs empty weight. I have already welded in gussets for the rear spar carry through tube and will be putting plywood in the bungie truss. I've spoke with Brett and have decided to go with his 13 gal wing tanks and will have to use his STOL transition ribs for the root rib and the one just outside of the gas tanks then it will be the speed ribs out to the end. Am i safe to just go this route and get 1050 lbs (not concerned about whats "legal" just whats safe) or do i need to extend the wings. If I was to extend them would i be better off just replacing my spars with longer ones rather than extending the ones i have? Last question (for now) am I ok with the wide rib spacing for 1050 gross or should i go with the HH spacing to be safe. I want to do it right the best that i can but i also just want to fly as soon as i can. sorry for all the questions but i don't have any extra money and want to get it right the first time and there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of info about the speed wings. If anyone has construction pics of the speedwing extension that would be awesome.

-Robert-

So i think I'm going to go with the Stewart system so I'm going to pick up some epoxy paint tomorrow and hopefully get the airframe painted soon so i can make room for the wings. Any epoxy paint should work right? or is there something that i should be looking for specifically. or to stay away from. Thanks for the input

-Robert-