1avidflyer

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  1. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Min RPM to generate spark (582 Rotax)   

    I believe you need 300 RPM to generate a spark with the Rotax 2 stroke ignition.   If you put synthetic oil in your gearbox, that will help to get the RPMs you need for the colder weather.  JImChuk
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  2. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Plans for skis   

    Lot of people get by without them.  Some advantages of having them are that you don't sink into the deeper snow as bad with a tail ski, and if you pack your runway with some kind of a drag, running without the tail ski leaves ruts in the field.   Not wheel penetration type, but here is what I used on the Avids.  JImChuk
     




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  3. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Avid C HH wing build 101   

    If you aren't in a big rush Leni, I could send a sketch when I get home.  2 months though.  JImChuk
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  4. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Avid C HH wing build 101   

    Wyatt,  As far as centers on ribs, what ever you do, make sure they fit the flaperon hangers.  That is the critical part.  I've seen where someone  had a brace stick pushing the rib to the side so it would fit the flaperon hanger.  That did work, but looked poor, although you couldn't see it with the fabric on the wing.  You can see it to, and I had nothing to do with building the wing originally.  :-0   You could even clamp the flaperon onto the rib tails when you go to glue, just so you make sure it's right.  JImChuk
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  5. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Avid C HH wing build 101   

    The rib tails are still on 3' centers in both STOL and HH wings, and that is where the trailing edges get cut.  JImChuk
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  6. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Kitfox 4 2200 Jab ebay $25K or make offer   

    Hey Doug,  I see where Paul walked that back a bit about the comparison to the cub.  I wasn't offended by it.  I do agree with what he said about the large prop on a 912 being a better match for our type of planes.   I liked my Jabiru, but if someone wanted to trade me a 912 for it that was just rebuilt like my Jabiru is, they wouldn't have to ask twice.  And  I do agree with you about the Kitfox 4 airfoil being a better wing.  Still can't believe how well that Kitfox 4 with the 503 performed that I rode in around Pensecola Fl. JImChuk
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  7. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Avid C HH wing build 101   

    Reason I said to have them cut the trailing edge to 3' 4" is you will be cutting them to 3' long any way.  3 X 3' 4" = 10' 0"  JImChuk
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  8. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Fuselage Reinforcement   

    If you use a 4' level, measure the difference front to back of the wing at the fuselage and at the wing tip.  Say you had 6" at the fuselage, and 4 1/2" at the tip.  That would mean you had 1 1/2" of wash out.  Hard to change that on an Avid with an adjustment on only one lift strut.  Kitfox would be easier, but you will also be twisting all the glue joints to some extent.  JImChuk
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  9. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Avid C HH wing build 101   

    If your drilled holes in the spars end up at 27 3/8" C to C, you will only be off 1/16" in each spar if you center the holes between the 2 spars.  Hope that makes sense.   I wonder if your fuselage carry throughs are warped a bit so they ended up narrow.   I don't have a build manual here, are you sure this isn't covered in one of the pages on the wing build.  As far as the aluminum trailing edge goes, you end up with a splice ever 3 feet anyway.  Now way you could ever cut out for the verticle part of the rib, and not cut the top.  Here is a link to the aluminum trailing edges from Aircraft spruce.   http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/trailedge.php?clickkey=649209   They will cut them for you to 3' 4" in length to say on shipping.  They did for me.  I wouldn't use the old chemicals.  New scottsweld 2216 or Hysol 9460 is the epoxy to use for glueing things like ribs and such.  I like the polyfiber system for covering.  Real easy to work with if you follow the manual.   For the spar stiffener, don't they show clamping the spar to make it egg shaped so you can put the stiffener in without scratching the inside of the spar?  I think that's in the manual.  Might be a good bit harder with the .083" wall thickness spars verses the .065" ones.  Here are a couple of pics of my trailing edges installed.    Home this helps and makes a bit of sense.  JImChuk
    PS  make sure to scuff sand the inside of the trailing edges where the glue will stick them to the ribs to get a good bond. 
     


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  10. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic '89 Avid kit: Help me make a deal!   

    Mine had two radiators inside the cowl, but also one under the belly of the plane.  Biggest problem for not cooling is the air  doesn't go through the radiator.  It will much rather try to go around it than through it.  If the radiators were ducted to force the air through them it may cool better.  I think there is a reason Kitfox went with the under belly radiator instead of the nose radiators.  JImChuk
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  11. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Kitfox 4 2200 Jab ebay $25K or make offer   

     
    KITFOX IV • $24,900 • FOR SALE OR TRADE • Jabiru2200, Sensenich prop, aluminium wing tanks, nav lights, strobes, dual Matco brakes.Flys great • Contact Jason Krispin - AEROTRANSPORT 10, Owner - located Aurora, IL USA • Telephone: 630 518 1191 . • Posted January 12, 2017
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  12. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic F/S: AviaSport Electronic Tach (Model #T8K12E)   

    Maybe someone has one of those RC prop tacks you can borrow to check it against..  They are pretty accurate.  You do have to calculate using your reduction drive ratio to get engine RPM though.   JImChuk
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  13. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic F/S: AviaSport Electronic Tach (Model #T8K12E)   

    It makes a difference on how many wraps you put around the plug wire.  I think they say 3 or 4 if memory is correct.  If it's to close to another plug wire, you could get interference.  Also of course it has to be set correctly for your engine.  For instance.... once per revolution,  (rotax with points)   twice per rev. (rotax with CDI) JImChuk
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  14. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Plans for skis   

    I found that the black UHMW I had was not as slippery as the white stuff.  It did work, but the white was better in my opinion.  If it was me, I would spend the extra money and get the white.  I do think that 3/8" thick is a bit of overkill though.  I used 3/16" on my later sets of skis, and they worked fine.  It seems that Larry's skis are 1/4" and seem to be holding up just fine.  JImChuk
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  15. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Plans for skis   

    I used the white 3/16" thick UHMW.  I did get a sheet of 1/4" black once, and made several sets of skis with that as well.  The 3/16 seemed to be strong enough.  I don't think you would want to go any thinner.   One thing about it though, on my skis, I have a lot more surface area for the plastic to rest up against and be supported by.   Not near as much support with the Avid wheel penetration skis.  Then probably the 1/4" thick would be well advised.   Last time I got some, I bought a 3/16" x  4' x 10' sheet from Sealy Plastics in Duluth, Mn.  The 3/16" stuff could be rolled up into about 2' diameter roll.  I carried it home in the back seat of the car.  I think the last time I priced it out, it was about $100 more than when I bought it.  New price was about 250.  JImChuk
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  16. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Plans for skis   

    I wouldn't go so far as to say flimsy, ever try to adjust the toe in with an 8' long pipe on the axel?  :-)  That takes a lot of pressure, in fact, it was all I could do holding onto a rope that was tied to the tailwheel, and the pipe against my belly.  None the less, I do agree with you that the plane should be moving when you try to turn it.  JImChuk
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  17. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Plans for skis   

    Here is what the bottom of the skis look like and also the cart.  Without the extra piece on the bottom of the skis, it wanted to slide sideways more than turn, especially if it was packed snow or icy.  The piece is more plastic, that happens to be black instead of white.  Pushing forward on the stick and adding throttle helps to turn the plane, especially if you are going slow.  On the cart,  The front ramps hinge on the back pipe, and pivot to flat as the wheels or skis go up them.  For the tail wheel, the aluminum piece laying on the ground past the cart is a  ramp that pins into the back of the cart, and allows the tail wheel or ski to side or roll up onto the back of the cart.  Then it pops off to move the cart.  The winch helps out by pulling the plane up the ramps.  JImChuk



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  18. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Yamaha RX1 Engines   

    Now that's a prop!  If the engine can turn it up to a good RPM, there has to be phenomenal performance.  JImChuk
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  19. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Kitfox 1 More pics   

    I found the when I painted the tips of my wood prop a red color, I was able to balance the prop with more or less paint on one side or the other.  Ran a 1" bar through the prop and set the bar on knife edges.  What was surprising was how little it took to make the prop move one way or the other with just a little bit of weight on the prop tip.  I know you will balance yours as well.  :-)  JImChuk
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  20. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Kitfox 1 More pics   

    I think another easy way to make the fairings if you don't have the shaper but do have a table saw, would be to use ranch style casing.  Cut a bit off the inside of two pieces of casing, till it ends up the right width, and glue the two pieces together.   I saw where someone was doing that with the foam/vinyl casing/trim, and it was lighter than wood.  If the glue used in the covering or gluing on didn't dissolve the foam, you would be good to go I suppose .  JImChuk
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  21. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Required Pilot Certification Level   

    Not sure exactly what you were referring to Larry, but if it's an experimental amateur built aircraft, I don't believe the DAR is the one who will specify whether the airplane meets light sport specs or not.   Come to think about it, if the top speed (VH) was expected to be close to the maximum allowed by light sport rules, one wouldn't know if it met those speed requirements until it was flown to determine what the maximum speed (VH) was.   Example:   If it was just under 138  MPH, without say lift strut fairings in place, it could be knocked out of the light sport envelope by fairing the struts which made the plane faster.   Another related example:   Engine instrument red lines can be put on before the first flight, but airspeed stall markings really should be established by flight testing.   Not trying to be argumentative, just saying how I see it. JImChuk
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  22. 1avidflyer added a topic in For Sale and wanted, you got it, I want it   

    150 HP Avid Magnum on barnstormers
    1995AVID MAGNUM • $28,300 • AVAILABLE FOR SALE • 1995 Avid Magnum 150 hsp lyc with less than 100 hrs on airframe &eng has n# and in great shape scott tailwheel 850 tires new prop etc.Have been updating this plane and ran out of time and money. 78yrs old and must sell. I will sell this plane with a set of 1900 Aqua floats in great shape for $28300 or best offer call 1 715 582 3478 Thanks • Contact Duane F. Meetz - DNA, Owner - located Peshtigo, WI USA • Telephone: 17155823478 . • Posted January 7, 2017
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  23. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Kitfox 1 More pics   

    I was more referring to how did you cut them out? JImChuk
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  24. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Required Pilot Certification Level   

    I've never heard of this higher speed endorsement for sport pilot.   Only speed ratings I am aware of are: less that 87 knots (100MPH)  and less than 120 knots (138 MPH)  JImChuk
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  25. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Kitfox 1 More pics   

    Looks good TJay,  how did you make the wood fairings?  JImChuk
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