Browning
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Posts posted by Browning
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Here are my thoughts. If you can weld good enough to change the angel on the axel, I would say make up the whole new bush gear. The seat truss is also a weak link in these airplanes, both Kitfox and Avid. The wider the bungee gear is, the more leverage you put against the seat truss. The wide bush gear also creates stresses on the fuselage in different ways though. It can pull in on the gear attach points and buckle the fuselage there. Good landings are the key, but probably none of us do that always, and then things can get bent to ruin your day. If you have the bungee gear, at least you should infill the triangles of the seat truss as much as possible. I've done it with .040" thick steel, but even plywood glued in will help. The plywood was actually the factories' suggestion. JImChuk
...and cut that highly destructive "safety wire" that limit the gear deflection. The wire will destroy even a reinforced seat truss. Replace it with a stiff horizontal bungee between the gear legs:
I'm glad to hear you say that because I've been thinking about exactly that.
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Living where I live a majority of my flying will be in fields dirt roads and such. But I dont have deep pockets. I think I'm going to brace up good and go with some soft tires and have at it. Definantly want to spend some time with a good tail wheel trainer. I want it to be a kitfox guy.
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I guess the only reason I'm thinking about it is because everyone seems to be doing it. It seems a lot feel that it helps with control. But I hear you loud and clear, why tinker.
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I think getting a second set of gear to play with is a great idea. I will definantly be doing a lot of crow hops either way. I'm in the process of rethinking some of it and the things you touched on give me direction. Thank you.
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I posted a rough idea I had under "wider gear with stock legs". It's in general hanger. Love to see what you think.
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Any thoughts.
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Just a quick sketch of how I think I could make my stock gear wider. Maybe gain about 3 or 4 inches per side. Hopefully you can understand my sketch. Basically just open the gear up and put in stops to keep it open the that point reweld the axles to make them level. With the big tires I will run I'm already gaining height. I dont think I need to lengthen the legs at all. Strengthen the seat truss and side rails and put bungies back on. Even thought about putting the bungies between the two triangles and not on the seat truss.
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That sounds like what you are describing. Thanks. Really don't want to put out 1K for a new brake system. Same for 1K-2K for a new bush gear. Most all the pictures of the Kitfox 1, 2, and 3 all show the original gear. Not saying new isn't better, just too pricy for what it is. A torch, $100 worth of tubing and a couple weekends work is much better.
I would love to see what you do with the torch and the weekends. I'm thinking to modify my gear as well. Lengthen the down tubes and kick them out a bit. Seems easy enough.
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Little off topic. On the nancos, I have 2 new ones. Do I need to run tubes or can they be set up tubeless and the old 8 inch wheel.
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Great info guys. Always appreciated. The site is an amazing resource.
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What affordable prop do I need for a 532 rotax
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I'm guessing 1 1/2" would change quite a bit. Think of what a small trim tab can do. JImChuk
very true. I think I'm going to give it a shot. Just add a bit.
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It seems like adding an inch and a half that way would be easy. But I don't know if an inch and a half would change anything
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Ok next question. If we can epoxy wood to the fuselage for widening. What about using wood to add little more to our tail feathers as I've heard a little more control is a plus
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So the snowmobile guys get a lot more out of there engines just by using tuned pipes. I haven't seen much on here about them. We are going through my 532 and my mechanic is asking me about a tuned pipe. Is there a reason I don't see much about them.
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I suppose you could use plywood, but I used some oak I had handy to widen the fuselage on the Kitfox 3. Plywood often has voids in it, and you are relying on the glue between the plys to hold it together. Also, it might not end up near as smooth on the edges when you round it over. I would go with the wood myself instead of plywood. I don't think it would have to be oak either, I just used that cause it was strong, had no knots, and was handy. I ripped it down to 5/8" thick but could have left it 3/4". JImChuk
PS page 2 has the post of my wood widened fuselage. www.avidfoxflyers.com/index.php?/topic/6050-latest-project-kitfox-3/ Thank you again. I knew I had seen your widening job before. I will be repeating it.
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Can I use plywood epoxied to the frame to do the widening of the doors. Has anyone done this. Will it hold up. I'm going to be using plywood in the seat truss and on the side rails for strengthening. I saw pics on here that look like they may have just used plywood and epoxy.
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I'm defiantly interested in your prop north Idaho. I will let you know once out figure out what direction I'm headed. Being here in Utah I think I'm going to need a serious climb prop. No cruising here.
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My plane came with 2 gsc props. There is a 68 stamped on the backs. One is smaller on the ends than the other. Are these any good.
One blade should not be smaller on the end than the other. If you are looking for another prop I have a GSC three blade 64" with LE protection I'll make you a good deal on. I got a smoking deal on a Warp so I bought it. Thanks for all the help everyone. Makes this a lot easier.
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Thank you JimChuk. I have one of those scales ready to go.
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What wing epoxy is the favorite. . Hysol. Scotch weld, or others.
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Kitfox 1 aka "Foxy Brown"
in Kitfox I
Posted
So the manual talks about fuselage stringers but I'm not understanding where they go. I'm not finding any pictures. What are they made of?How big?