Kitfox 1 aka "Foxy Brown"

51 posts in this topic

Posted (edited)

Kitfox serial #0099, originally built in Wisconsin. Now located in Manila, Utah. Flamming Gorge Country  

So it begins. It is completely torn down and ready for rebuild.  I will be posting pictures and giving commentary along the way. Would love to see photos of strut bracing as well as seat truss bracing. I hear it talked about a lot but haven't found too many photos. Please feel free to tell me anything in need to do to make it better. 532 rotax. Going to have to go with it for a while. Any info there will be greatly appreciated as well. 

Edited by Browning

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Posted

Widen the fuselage at the doors at the very least.  I would probably redo the door openings so they would be just like the later model Kitfoxes.  (longer bottom on the door before it angels up and back)  That will make it easier to widen the fuselage.   JImChuk 

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Posted (edited)

Kitfox serial #0099, originally built in Wisconsin. Now located in Manila, Utah. Flamming Gorge Country  

So it begins. It is completely torn down and ready for rebuild.  I will be posting pictures and giving commentary along the way. Would love to see photos of strut bracing as well as seat truss bracing. I hear it talked about a lot but haven't found too many photos. Please feel free to tell me anything in need to do to make it better. 532 rotax. Going to have to go with it for a while. Any info there will be greatly appreciated as well. 

There fun I just took my model 1 up for a bit today between the fog and snow showers. Terrible cold but I still love it.

What are you needing to know about strut bracing?

Edited by TJay

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Posted

I know how to widen the cockpit. Just want to see how guys are bracing other problem areas up. Also my wings are pretty straight forward and close to ready for cover. Is there anything I need to do to the wings. Thanks so much for your input, you too jimchuck. I've been watching for quite a while. 

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Posted

If your wings are uncovered, it would be a good time to put the little aluminum angle stiffeners  on the rib tails that carry the flaperons.  Check out this link, and look at the second to last message posted.  JImChuk

www.avidfoxflyers.com/index.php?/topic/5042-left-flaperion-hinge-failure/&page=2
 

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Posted

Thank you.  I think I will do that upgrade before I cover them. 

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Posted (edited)

Make sure all your drag tubes are solid and not cracked at the bent ends. I glued a triangle piece of plywood in all them areas. Pressure test your fuel tanks.  And don't forget to take some pictures for all of us.

 

100_0937.JPG

Edited by TJay
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Posted

Make sure all your drag tubes are solid and not cracked at the bent ends. I glued a triangle piece of plywood in all them areas. Pressure test your fuel tanks.  And don't forget to take some pictures for all of us.

 

100_0937.JPG

very good info thank you. I will do it. And I plan to take plenty of photos. Photos make things easy to figure. 

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Posted

My plane came with 2 gsc props. There is a 68 stamped on the backs. One is smaller on the ends than the other. Are these any good. 

20190118_110852.jpg

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If the prop hub is plastic then don't use it. They were recalled in 89.

This is the gsc prop that came with mine:20180925_091240.thumb.jpg.9a3bd8b6029c22

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My hubs are both aluminum. Are they good props. 

If the prop hub is plastic then don't use it. They were recalled in 89.

This is the gsc prop that came 

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Posted (edited)

Started wing repairs and bracing tonight. Thanks for all the info gentlemen. I will epoxy plywood triangles to the diagonal braces and support them at the center. What is best tubing for the pitot.  I think I've seen pex tubing  

20190121_142808.jpg

Edited by Browning

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Posted (edited)

What wing epoxy is the favorite. . Hysol. Scotch weld, or others. 

Edited by Browning

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Posted (edited)

Think most guys useing the hysol, least that what i used. Mixed by weight, and Leni gave me idea to put the mix (after mixin) into a ziplock bag, cut off a corner and use it like a cake decorator bag in the area u need it

 

 

image.jpg

Edited by Buckchop

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Posted

Think most guys useing the hysol, least that what i used. Mixed by weight, and Leni gave me idea to put the mix (after mixin) into a ziplock bag, cut off a corner and use it like a cake decorator bag in the area u need it

 

 

image.jpg

Thanks Chop I think that's what I'm going with  good idea on the bag too. Thx. 

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Posted

The hysol is easier to mix at 1 to 1 ratio.  It didn't seem to last much over a year before it started to lump up though.  The scotch weld 2216 seems to be good still in 25 year old cans.  I don't use the old stuff for anything structural on the plane though, although when I've used it on other things, it seemed to be just fine.  To mix the epoxy by weight, I use a small scale like one of these.   I buy some plastic cups to mix in and popsicle sticks to pick up the epoxy and mix with.  Weigh the cup, add half as much epoxy to the cup, calculate how much of the other epoxy to add by weight, add it and mix.  Gives a perfect mix, and it's easy to do.  JImChuk

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Scale-3000g-x-0-1g-Jewelry-Gold-Silver-Coin-Gram-Pocket-Size-Herb-Grain/113052489841?epid=14016763155&hash=item1a52741871:g:D9QAAOSwfshbHW2D:rk:2:pf:1&frcectupt=true

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Posted

Thank you JimChuk. I have one of those scales ready to go. 

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Posted

if it starts lumping up, you can put the cans in some hot water and it will soften up and you can mix it right up and it will smooth right back out again.  Let it cool before you try to mix the 2 parts together though unless you want it to set a lot faster!

:BC:

 

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Posted

For tubing i used 1/4 blue air line from the tool depot works great

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Posted

if it starts lumping up, you can put the cans in some hot water and it will soften up and you can mix it right up and it will smooth right back out again.  Let it cool before you try to mix the 2 parts together though unless you want it to set a lot faster!

:BC:

I did try heating up some old hysol, and it did seem to soften up and when mixed up it hardened up.  I used it on something that wasn't critical though, cause I'm not sure how much to trust it.  The Scotchweld  doesn't seemed to have changed consistency in 25 years.  The scotchweld I use for the plane is only about 2 years old though.  JImChuk

 

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Posted

My plane came with 2 gsc props. There is a 68 stamped on the backs. One is smaller on the ends than the other. Are these any good. 

20190118_110852.jpg

One blade should not be smaller on the end than the other. If you are looking for another prop I have a GSC three blade 64" with LE protection I'll make you a good deal on. I got a smoking deal on a Warp so I bought it.

 

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Posted

My plane came with 2 gsc props. There is a 68 stamped on the backs. One is smaller on the ends than the other. Are these any good. 

20190118_110852.jpg

One blade should not be smaller on the end than the other. If you are looking for another prop I have a GSC three blade 64" with LE protection I'll make you a good deal on. I got a smoking deal on a Warp so I bought it.   Thanks for all the help everyone. Makes this a lot easier. 

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Posted (edited)

I'm defiantly interested in your prop north Idaho. I will let you know once out figure out what direction I'm headed. Being here in Utah I think I'm going to need a serious climb prop. No cruising here. 

Edited by Browning
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Posted

Can I use plywood epoxied to the frame to do the widening of the doors. Has anyone done this. Will it hold up. I'm going to be using plywood in the seat truss and on the side rails for strengthening. I saw pics on here that look like they may have just used plywood and epoxy. 

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