Browning

Members
  • Content count

    48
  • Joined

  • Last visited


Posts posted by Browning


  1. I didn't want the lacing on the outside where it would get beat up.  I thought it might protect the laces better. Idk. 


  2. I was worried you had to have a flat surface, that the valleys between ribs would cause a problem. Thanks AK

    2 people like this

  3. Can I put vgs on a wing that does not have a solid leading edge  I have the ribs but I want to put the vgs on. 


  4. Stitching is complete. Final tapes and then on to ekofill. 

    So the manual talks about fuselage stringers but I'm not understanding where they go. I'm not finding any pictures. What are they made of?How big?

    20190317_180057.jpg

    20190317_180022.jpg

    20190317_180029.jpg

    20190317_180046.jpg


  5. So I have the bottom side of both wings covered I'm into it 6 hrs. 3 hrs per wing.  The tops of the wings will go quicker. Feels like progress  thanks for all the questions everyone has helped me with.

    Resized_20190305_162143_7324.jpeg

    Resized_20190305_162138_8556.jpeg


  6. Do inspection rings mess with the airflow and effectiveness of the wing?  Can you put them on top of the wing?  I think JimChuck said somewhere a soldering iron for drain holes. Do they require anything else or just burn them in?


  7. Do inspection rings mess with the airflow of the wing. Can you put then on top of the wing  when you use a soldering iron for drains is there any additional required or do you just burn a little hole and call it good  


  8. I know right. I'm waiting to cover until I can get to town and get the right wire. 


  9. I'm doing my stringers on the fuselage and I'm using epoxy and I want to use -40 rated zip ties to secure it instead of the wire. I've actually already used them. Do I need to redo with stainless wire or am I ok. 


  10. Went back today and read many, many older posts on the so-called bush gear including ones built by various people. It kind of cast in stone that I'll keep the original gear that came with the model 2 Fox and use a alternative type safety cable.  Since I don't plan to land on a washboard, the original gear will do just fine, and they used it up to and including the Model 4. There is a wealth of information on Avid/Foxes on this site and valuable info to be gained. Sometimes, its what not to do. Like build a lardache aircraft for one. A lot of stuff I see on some planes is just not needed for the mission of a Avid/Fox and only compounds certain issues. One I read about in the old post would be lucky to come under 30K with all the stuff he wanted to do to it. A 30K+ model 1, Oh well, to each his own.  That's why its called experimental aviation.  Keep on modifying them, I learn a lot. 

    I'm new to the site and it's my first kitfox. I've come to the same conclusion in all my reading. I feel a good bush tire is all I need to get the most out of my bird and soften the bumps. Oh and get rid of those cables. 


  11. Rotax 532. I want to keep it light. Should I take the electric start off and just hand prop.  Is it worth it. There a lot of weight there. 


  12. The Nancos are mounted. Brakes are ready for lines and bleeding. Test fitting parts. I am missing the rib the attaches to the passenger side that the roof hooks to. Anybody have an extra. 

    image.jpeg

    image.jpeg


  13. GSC Systems in Vernon, B.C. makes really nice ground adjustable. With the US-CAD exchange it should be almost free for you.:lmao:

    I have two GSC props that came with it. Both have a bad blade. 


  14. Hope this helps too.  The welding of standoffs is optional.  Standard practice is to glue on wood ones.

     

    100_0825.JPG

     

    thanks jay. 

    1 person likes this