Elkonastick
Members-
Content count
40 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by Elkonastick
-
-
Hi all,
After an off airport landing on a dirt road I noticed my tailwheel had sheared off, mount and all. Doing some research it looks like the bottom and angle brace tubing to tailwheel mount on the MkIV’s are known to crack over time. Mine sheared right at the tailwheel cradle and diagonal brace where it attaches to through tube for the tow bar. I’m going to repair and strengthen
What size tubing will slide inside the 1/2” .035 lower tubing?
Thank you
-
Hi Randy,
Same setup, Stratus EA81 but mine has the belly radiator. I took the complete cooling system off today. I'll have the copper fitting resoldered and thinking I'll replace all the hoses with the blue silicone and probably replace the old radiator with a new aluminum one from Williams. Thanks for the tip on the BMW inline stat. It has a Stant inline thermostat now with the bypass built into it, looks like a 180 degree. After taking it all off there were a few weak spots I found, mostly soft spots in hoses ends near clamps.
Thanks again
Darin
-
Hi all,
Well last week my buddy and I were going to make a flight over to a nearby airport, land and return. All was good until about 40 minutes into the flight. I noticed the coolant temp was a little warm, 200ish. I have a valve inline to radiator that can be adjusted for more or less cooling. The guy I bought plane from cautioned me about opening too much because temp never gets into the normal range. Anyway it was in the same position of last flight, difference was that flight didn't involve such a long sustained climb. Early morning takeoff and outside air was about 75 when things got interesting. Temp started climbing slowly past 210 so we set it down on dirt road on a ranch. Opened valve a bit (can't reach it in flight) but decided to pull top cowl just to make sure. I was tugging and poking around and found I could cause a copper elbow on the "manifold" to leak a bit. I gave it a pretty good tug and it came out! Looked like solder let go. So what was supposed to be a nice quick back in hangar by noon turned into an adventure involving trailer and not back to hangar until 1am.
My question is there a better setup for the EA81 coolant lines and fittings that someone has built? I'm thinking rebuild "manifold" with welded aluminum hard fittings and blue silicone hoses. The current system has an inline stat so not sure why the inline valve to control temp was needed? I'm also considering upgrading radiator to a new aluminum one but that will make for better cooling which seems to be the issue and need for the valve, too much cooling now? Also considering the "Thermal Bob" inline some are running.
Thanks for the input if you have any. I'm just glad we had a road to set down on before it got too hot. I'll attach some pics later.
Thanks
-
Thanks for the input guys, I do appreciate your insight. I've heard the water issue with the paper filters before. The AP said the o-ring on the glass filters is prone to failure?
What is a good replacement for the plastic paper filter? I know I'm probably asking a Ford, Chevy, Dodge type question but even a top of the line filter is a small expense considering the outcome of a failure from going cheap.
Searching the interweb seems like I'm chasing my tail trying to decide on a good quality screen type filter, micron size, etc.
Thank you again
-
Hi everyone,
I just had my conditional and found only three things needing looked at. One of my ignition coils (EA81 soob) has a broken mount screw, glass inline fuel filter under panel and a section of fuel line that looked questionable. He doesn't like the glass inline filters, can't say I do either. Screw replacement will be easy peasy. But filter and fuel line I'd like some advice from you guys with way more experience than me.
I have a plastic inline paper filter just upstream of header tank also. The glass filter is after the fuel shut off valve under the panel. My question is this. Is the second filter after valve needed? Wouldn't the filter at header tank be sufficient? It seems the filter after the shut off valve is just two more places a Leak could develope, and it'd be right on my legs!
Unless the concensise is two filters are needed I'd like to eliminate the second filter. If it is needed I'd like to get rid of the glass and move it out from under panel. Also is the plastic paper type filter a good choice? Any drawbacks to them? Better alternative?
There is a section of fuel line under panel that at first "squeeze" seemed like rubber line that had gotten hard. Upon closer inspection it doesn't look like run of the mill rubber line. No writing on it, seems to have a hard plastic outer layer? It may be just hard rubber line needing replaced, but it doesn't look like any rubber line I've seen. Is there a special "hard shell" line out there that would of been chosen for the section under the panel that has better strength?
Thank you all for any advice!
Darin
-
-
I'm with Paul, Goof Off. I used it to remove decal residue off a Expedition we bought that was a former city P.D. rig. It comes in regular and "pro" strength. Of course I used it on car paint with no damage, I'd try a small spot first.
-
-
I built hundreds of models as a kid, mostly WW2 planes and ships. I went to Walmart and they don't even sell models! What the heck?! Wife suggested Michael's and I'll be damned, they had models and Testers paint.
I never even thought of fingernail polish. I Cerakote as a business and was considering using some air cure but the Testers will touch up the little chips just fine.
Thanks everyone!
-
Thank you gentlemen!
-
Hi all,
I have a few little spots I'd like to touch up, chipped paint on gear, tiny spot flaked off of flaperon rib tails, etc. Logs state paint is aerothane. I only need a small bottle of each of the three colors. Hate to buy. Quart of each at $70+. What would be off the shelf comparable? I was considering Testers model paint. Lots of colors I could get it matched pretty close. The chips are on the steel gear mount/legs and the plywood flaperon rib tails. Can anyone see any issues using the model enamel? Or is there a paint you would recommend? I bought the plane used and didn't get any left over paint from original paint job. I'm just wanting to prevent spots of rust or water intrusion into the plywood.
Thanks
-
Following. I have the stratus ea81 in my Mkiv now but the Yamaha looks very appealing. Anyone know the all in weight difference between the two?
-
Hey all. I'm in the process of building a hangar at a local small airfield. What I'd like to have and what I can afford are two different things. I've kind of come to a decision on a 36' x 36' with 12' eve height. I plan on sharing it with a buddy that has a legal eagle now but he's looking at a LSA, Kitfox, Avid or similar high wing down the road. I'm in a 45' x 40' now along with the legal eagle, my Avid MkIV and a Rans S7, plenty of room for all three. Unfortunately it's at another airport that is farther away than I'd like to be, plus I'm renting it. Anyone in a 36 x 36 or close? Moving planes around and pulling measurements I think 36x36 is big enough for two, I think.
Opinions?
Thanks
-
Great comparison pic!
-
Thank you gentlemen! Current bottle is pretty hokie and unvented. I have a coolant system bottle for big street bikes coming.
-
Living the dream right there!
-
So I'm going to replace my coolant overflow bottle tomorrow, it's on a Soob EA81. What's on it now is some kind of water sippy bottle, like they give you in the hospital. See pic. The bottle I'm going to use has several access points for the tube. Bottom, side, top. My thinking is run tube from system in the bottom, that way suction point will always be submerged vs running in from top with pickup tube ran to bottom of bottle. Then top point run vent tube out through bottom of cowl. The current sippy bottle on it now is not vented, by design? Am I missing something? I've seen it done both ways, vented and not vented. The bottle I plan on using is a generic automotive bottle and has option of being vented or not. I seen a pic online somewhere of the same bottle I'll be using installed on a plane with a soob engine but didn't pay attention to how it was plumbed and of course now I cant find it. I got a feeling I'm WAY over thinking this. But better to ask stupid questions than risk seizing up a motor. Thanks guys, I come here everyday and learn something every time.
-
I'll weigh the 8.00's and get back to you. The 8.50's are just under 10#'s each.
-
nlappos, I bet you're right, lack of tread. Difference is amazing.
1 person likes this -
-
Just some side by side pics. I went from 8.00 to 8.50's. Not a huge difference but much softer. It tracks on the ground MUCH better. From one end of runway to the other probably half as many pedal inputs to keep it on centerline. Not sure why the softer tires would make that kind of difference but as a student pilot I'll take all the help I can get!
2 people like this -
-
Did not know that Av8r3400, good to know also! I'll be changing it all out with fresh Dexcool when I find a suitable overflow bottle. Thanks all
-
Good to know, thanks Dusty
Tubing size
in Technical tasks
Posted
It was stretched by Brett at Airdale in 2012, 13.5" along with adding height to vertical and bigger dorsal. It has a Matco tailwheel and from what I'm finding the bigger tailwheel seems to contribute to the cracking and eventual failure?
Thanks for the info on tubing size, I have a few sizes buddy is bringing by so hopefully he'll have a chunk of the .465.
Thanks again