Columbus

Search on this thread and you’ll find a TON.

My first loop. Still have to shrink wrap it but I wanted the forum’s opinion if it looks ok? Too tight or too loose- thanks. I’ll wait to see what the consensus is before I move forward 

Was there ever a “final final” on this? I’m still in the hunt 

Luked- that was THE best article...beers on me should we ever meet

Thanks! This is what I got when I ordered over the phone

http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/bungee10mm.php?clickkey=6282

when it showed up, I called and she read to me over the phone and I looked it up in the catalog - I didn’t think it was correct!

appreciate the help

I called the contact number, he wouldn’t give the back story of why it ended up like this. Called a local DAR I met recently and he said it would be possible but he wouldn’t touch it without a substantially documented rebuild.

i too am dang curious as to what it will go for

Morning-

so, I am about to swap the bungees on my MK IV with the wide stance gear. I’ve done my research and homework yet still have two issues.

i ordered the shock cord from AS and what came in is ALL black, not flecked. It does seem relatively stiff (as compared to Ace hardware stuff) but I’ve nothing to compare it to. AS says, both in the catalog and when Inspoke to the rep on the phone, that it’s for landing gear...thoughts?

Secondly, with the slick outer casing, should I up the number of wire wraps? Would too many be detrimental and possibly cause premature failure by cutting into the cord? 

Suggestions and advice GREATLY appreciated

YOWOUCH! Really glad to read your Ok! I got “puffed” the other day in CHII on final at about 10’ off the ground. I got it down but had to go change my shorts! I’m still in the beginning phases of My  TW training and have this sort of event firmly rooted in my brain!

Thanks- I’ve watched several videos of the replacement I’ve not found one yet on how to fashion the loops. There is powerfully little data out there on material selection either. Some have mentioned using bungee chord from a home supply store, others buy theirs from AS, one guy mentioned getting it from eBay....sketchy I should think. Wish me luck- my plan is to knock this out tomorrow

HAHA- the “Double tailwheel” is just the dolly, she actually has a solid Maule wheel.

Thanks for the kind words- though. I’ve been terrified to fly her that if anything happened, insurance might balk.

Could you send a pic of short video? I need to replace my bungees.

Thanks in advance

Through a bureaucratic SNAFU that ONLY could be made by the government....it took almost 8 months, yes you read that right EIGHT FREGGIN’ months...FINALLY my HH has MY NAME on it! Paperwork just cleared! 

Geez....

I ride old motorcycles known as a Shovelhead Harley, these are known for losing a boot to carb seal and sucking air in this turning the rear piston to sand! (Ask me how I know! C’mon...ask) I’m really glad to see you got back down the right way. I will be adding dropping the upper cowl and checking my carbs to the preflight- I’ve been just reaching in and wiggling - I’ll be changing that to more aggressive maneuvers 

DAYUM! Think you for giving me more reasons to have sleepless nights! Very good to read that you were not hurt (other than aybe some pride) and for once again reinforcing the lessons my CFI kept pounding into my head, “Stabilized approach”....”STABILIZED approach”....dang it Columbus, “STABILIZED APPROACH”

Not an A&P or even close however, I have over the years probably built over 100 motorcycles. When I  say built, I do mean BUILT. I have my own frame jig and at one time had a full machine shop with engine building capabilities. I have been taken to court twice by people who thought they had me (they were stupid or had momentary stupidity with less than stellar results and were quite certain they had a payday coming...One purchaser tried to jump a 9’ chopper over a Dodge Neon)

ANYWAY

ALL I did (on advice of an attorney) was to include on the BOS was to include, “This is an amateur built vehicle and doesn’t not conform to industry standards. There are no warranties either expressed or implied and purchaser accepts full responsibility for this vehicle”...it should sound somewhat familiar to anyone here.... for good reason.

It won’t stop some @hole from suing yet it is HIGHLY effective in keeping them from winning.

The bike is the last one I built- I rode her for 10years before I sold her to buy my Avid

Stand by....

Morning Gang!

Today’s question hails from the aft end of my plane....When my friend flew the plane down from Cambridge he noted that the tail wheel (Maule design) felt like it was rather easy to go into “cantering” mode rather than stay locked up. So I’ve researched how to rebuild it. My CFI the other day suggested I physically lock the tailwheel (no caste ring AT all) and I see the benefit to this. The 25¢ question is how to do this without ruining the assembly? I could just drill a hole a pass a bolt through it yet I feel like there has got to be a better way that I am just not seeing. I think I’ve read most of the forums comments about locking tailwheel sandy just haven’t found the answer..TIA

PS- I’ve been HS taxiing in the plane... oooooooh, I like it, I like it a LOT! Can’t wait till Tom Mullally gets back from his dive for more lessons

Very exciting to see that plane of Tom’s come together while he’s been teaching me! I’m dying to see that bird in the air!

Rats

Hey Cap’n-

Did Chris pick this up? If not...I’ll take it

I can’t speak for the 582 but the exhaust manifold trick work great on 503s!

While I agree, in a perfect world, I’d be stripping the fabric off, making aluminum side plates, hysol or JB weld them in place and use offset mechanical fasteners (which IS what I’ll do at some point) I’m thinking that making a lamination with perhaps .020 aluminum and adhesive with a couple of rivers should be an excellent stop-gap until that time. Thanks to all for inputs and help!

I love this place! You guys just saved me again!

That’d be awesome. I really DONT wanna have to recover the wings!

Exactly! My CFI has a KF4 (early model) with the wide hinge plates riveted to the upper and lower surfaces. No such material on the AVID hince my thought about making a lamination of aluminum on either side of the TE tips.