Yamma-Fox

Wow!!

NICE.

After all these boring "technical" posts, here's a practical one!

Gates has a good selection of tees and reducers as well.

My system simply has a tee right before the hot goes in the radiator, and another right after the cold comes out.  Run those up to the core.  Pretty simple. I have a SOV by the core but I don't think you'd necessarily need it. 

Pretty boring video here!   

It's a systems lookover prior to ground testing:

Maybe consider a heater core type cabin heat?

A lot safer and also gives you additional cooling capacity if you ever needed it.

Couple extra pounds of course.

(Firewall is on left, white tube going up to windshield, fans ziptied on top that blow down through it)

As far as clamps, I am sold on oetiker clamps.  Nothing squeezes as tight, is as 100% secure, grips all the way around the hose (zipties and worm gear clamps always have a slack spot under the tab)

Just gotta be careful not to put the oetiker in a location where you cant remove them easily (to remove I cut the compression tab with a dremel cutoff disk)

Me too!!  ^^

I never would have went Yamaha until others dialed it in and proved it out.

These puppies need to breath right or you will miss out on a ton of HP that they are capable of.  Header design is well beyond my knowledge and experience so I went with advice from others, but here's a quote from a performance shop that sheds basic light on the topic:

"Header primary tube tuning has two basic parameters: airflow requirement and exhaust pulse tuning.

Tubing diameter is dictated by flow requirement, which in itself is determined by engine displacement and rpm...

Header primary length has to do with timing the exhaust pulses so that the exhaust from one primary helps to suck the gases from an adjacent cylinder."

It gets real deep.  Bore, stroke, valve duration, and other factors change design parameters.  But in a basic sense if the header isn't done right it will have the effect of putting a potato in your tailpipe!

Nice!  I better kick it in gear here or you're gonna pass me up!

Looks like you'll have the same "bubble top" cowl as me, or are you going to be able to fit it under there?

I think this is gonna turn out great.   

How are you gonna do the camlock seam between the two halves?  Add in an "underlap" strip after you cut them apart?

Nice write up.

And nice that the hardy disk fails in a propeller turning mode like that.

Additionally, for anyone that missed it, in the Yamaha group we saw two Cbox's with damaged bearings because the pinion shaft bolt (bolt #19 in the first diagram above) came loose.  The Rotax service center recommend (whenever servicing the gearbox) to make sure to clean up and dry the threads (male and female) - use plenty of red loctite - get it torqued right (212 in-lbs) - and let the loctite cure before refilling the oil.  Also a pinion shaft axial clearance check is a good idea.

Good idea.  And I probabaly need to do something with my KF5 going on floats, so I'll be looking for ideas.

I like this "watching you do my experimenting for me"!  LOL!

-popcorn and beer emoji-

FUEL SYSTEM:

Hooking up my fuel feed today.

I went with a Facet 40288 (2 - 4.5 psi) with a built in check valve that allows free flow through it but no backflow.  

Past the Facet pump I put one of the Yamaha vacuum pulse pumps in a parallel loop as a backup in case the elect pump fails.  (Note that the pulse pump does not allow flow through it in either direction, so it needs a bypass line around it in case it fails).  

In the pic below I forgot to label a check valve I'll be putting in the bypass line between the facet and the fuel pressure guage fitting.  It will go in the location of the green circle in the pic below.  Without it, when the pulse pump is running standalone it would "feed itself" in a loop (instead of the carbs) and will not draw from the tank.

Of course all this will be firesleeved / heat shielded as well due to proximity to exhaust.

I will test to confirm how this all works and update this post.

Thanks!  Now I'll be able to find it later when I get to my cowl work!

On my snowmo I zip tie a bag with rarely used stuff (spare bolts, zipties, ect) to the frame.  Saves having it in the storage area taking space - bouncing around- in the way.

Think I'll do that in the plane too.

Couple add-ons to stuff mentioned: vise grips, gorilla tape, elect wire and crimp splices, hack saw blade, 2 magnetic attach flashlights, coat hangar / bailing wire.

Outback and on overnights  I carry a lithium  pocket jump start pack.  

What stuff saved the day for you guys on that trip vance? 

Hey maybe consider renaming this topic as "Fabricating a Cowl" or something so that people might find it easier in a future search.

You can do that by clicking the "edit" button on the very first post.

I like the looks of tthat motor too Jim.  

There sure is a lot of interest in our group for a 582 replacement. This one could fit that bill well since it is smaller shorter and probably a bit lighter then the bigger Yamahas.

Thumbs up!

Got measurements on that scoop?

Yeah man!

Looking forward to seeing how you finish this up!

I have no desire for a show plane either.  Just a nice one.  So I like the way you think!

Following this.  Keep posting up your cowl build!  I have some cowl mod to do and this is really helpful.

Ready to hook up hoses and fill fluids!  More pics tomorrow, but here is the oil hose and clamps I chose.  This hose size fit perfectly for the 3 main runs and is far more Heavy Duty than the hose used on the snowmobile.  

The otieker clamps are said to be far superior in positive clamping and not loosing tension through heat cycles.  The kit below includes sizes that will also fit my 5/16 fuel hose.

That's a good report.  Yeah my research might have been lopsided due to the old "negative experience collection pool" effect that internet forums tend to magnify:

Example: There may be 100,000 Ford 6.0 Diesels out there, 95,000 of them run great and owners never visit the forum.  But the forum has 5,000 reports of head gasket problems so you read that and figure it is a 100% problem when it's actually 5%.