racegunz

Flying brick is about right, but the gutter stuff is cheap and uh.. durable HAHA! everytime I pick the thing up I'm amazed it can get off the ground at all. I'll find some one who will enjoy it, thanks for the idea!

Before I sold my Rans with a 503 I used VHT ceramic based paint on the exhaust after bead blasting and using the VHT primer as well, it looked nice after about 10-12 hrs,then i sold it. There is a specific burn in procedure and it has to be followed or the paint won't cure right. The stuff sure looked nice, proper prep and burn in are the keys to it lasting, try it out.

I'll make an inventory if you think it sounds like stuf you want the short list from memory is a complete and flying durastik with a tower hobbies .46 bb and a back-up motor os .40 that the mount is broken on one bolt hole, this has a 6 channel radio that is fm and only about 5 years old also tower hobbies brand. a project durabat that is incomplete but have the wings fuse and gear,empennage. Accessories are just alot 12vlt starter various servos glow plugs ect. also have another radio have to check it out but I think it's a 4 channel fm futaba. actually I'll take less for it cause shipping will be pricey! I haven't flown the plane or played with the T-Maxx since I got into my accident now that I have the Waga-bond and the cub project I need to let it go, would be stuff better suited for a beginner not someone already into it like you. I just hate to see it sit until it's no good. Merry Christmas fly safe!

I'll sell you all my r/c plane stuff for 250.00 right now! I will probably do the internet thing again, someday.

Well the guy came through and was true to his word I cashed the Bank Check today, he even repaid me for the shipping, happy not to have to drive to MN to get my money! Still I'll think twice before I do any more high dollar internet deals again. Merry Christmas everyone!

Remind me not to have dinner with you if you're pissed! The bad thing is after a few experiences with fellow aviators like this do you trust any? I mean a bad car part or something similar is bad enough but you don't just coast to the side of the road in a malfunctioning airplane,(well not very often anyways)

Well the fella has the mags back and has them on FEEBAY now, he says he has sent me a bank check so we'll see. On a brighter note I took a jug off the lycoming I bought this summer and it's in great shape! Good thing cause I can't afford to rebuild one.

There was anoher UCLA study on the most popular sexual position for longtime married couples.

The position surprisingly was "Doggy Style"
























The man sits up and begs, while the wife rolls over and play dead.

Try unplugging the connector coming from the coils/charging system there could be chaffed wires grounding out the CDI's. Careful though don't fire it up without the plugs grounded to the engine somehow you can blow the CDI that way. If you have a multimeter maybe you should just check the CDI grounding wires in that plug first to see if they are shorted to the frame or open, safer that way. If that doesn't work then you probably need to get some of the rotax manuals to OHM check the CDI and the coils, they are easy to find online. Look up (ultralightnews.com) lots of helpful rotax stuff there.

double post

Another inspection too? Will they issue another AW certificate afterwards? or update it to include this engine type as well as rotax?

Forgive my ignorance but how would they (I think they refers to the FAA?) know? Personally I think the 40 for a new experimental is a good idea now that I've been through it, but if I upgrade an engine or change type, is there paper work involved other than a log book entry, I was under the impression that it was more of an honor system with the testing.

I have Bing 54 carbs, inside the slide is a white plastic cup it locks the throttle cable inplace with the tension from the return spring, the main needle (not the main jet) has 4 places for an e-clip and small o-ring to set the mid-range leaner or richer, that clip is supposed to be under the cup but it fits nicely inside and if you don't know any better it looks like that's where it goes. The side effect is the midrange will be crazy rich, mine was actually surging at cruise I had to jockey the throttle every couple of minutes to try and keep it where it should be. The moral of the story is even if you are a newbie check the other guys work, all of it. With both issued fixed I now can cruise at 70 + mph at 5500 rpm. and the tach reads steady, it's a real relief to see every guage reading what it should the entire flight.

Just in case anyone else ever has this problem here's the scoop. I never could get the tachs reading consistantly enough to keep flying it so I took the engine off and took the charging system out to inspect and I found.... nothing
nothing wrong at all, no bad ohm readings no rubbed wires it all was like new (it practically is). So I started rewiring the entire plane and changed quite a few things mostly running sheilded wire and keeping the charging system wiring clear of the rest of the harness. I even went to the length of sheilding the plug wires. I am not sure which of these worked but both tachs are now steady although as you all figured the needle tach reads about 1k higher than the tiny tach. A very good thing came out of this though, i found while checking the jets on the carbs to make sure they were the right ones that the main jets were inside the plastic cup instead of under it causing the surging I was getting at cruise and the low egt's. Thanks once again for the suggestions and ideas.

No prob. called tiny tach today, the tech had no explaination he just said it's weird that it would be correct at the 90deg setting and if it starts acting up send it back for a replacement.

Actually the update rate is .5 sec and I am comparing it to the needle tach that I left in for now. Also I would call erratic an up and down reading not trending in a coherent fashion, i.e. swinging 100's of rpm's bothways THAT would be erratic.

The new model Tiny tach can be set up for different engines so only one model. The rotax 503 is supposed to fire every 180 deg so you would set the tiny tach to that, mine seems to be correct at the 90 deg setting. I flew today and the tach was consistant and about a grand lower reading than the original, still was reving a little high on climb-out but not erratic. I grounded it right where the stater ground wire is (big lug and copper ground wire) and I got the best reading with three wraps of the red wire on one plug wire. I had my eyes glued to the cht's/egt's and all seemed normal.

Okay I installed the tiny tach yesterday and re-pitched my powerfin prop to 11.5 deg. (pretty close to what I had before) I wired the tiny tach like the tech suggested and it read with the original up to about 4k then it started bouncing around,(just like the original) I then re-wrapped it in a different area with less turns and it read too fast? I had it set on 180 deg. which is what I thought was correct. I then wrapped only one plug wire (tiny tach suggested both from one mag) and made sure it was well clear of other wires, set it to 90 deg. and it is now smooth as silk and stays with the original tach until the original freaks out at about 5500. If the new tch is correct and I think it is I was way over pitched. With a static run of 58-59k on the tiny tach I was over 7500 on the original and it was bouncing around as ususal the tiny tach was steady. The only question is why did I have to put it on 90 deg.? a call to tiny tach is in order.

thanks guys, lots to consider, the kit ofx kit is looking like the better deal right now, but i haven;t "seen" either one of them.

Ok here's the scoop from the guy with the Avid, why would he have to "bend" the cross over tubes? what do you guys think?

(complete fuselage with landing gear mounted
wings covered in ceconite thru nitrate (14' long)
aluminum flaperons
rudder, stabilizer, elevator covered with ceconite thru nitrate
Subaru E-81 engine with belt reduction, alternator, and starter
twin electronic ignitions
3-bladed Warp drive prop
radiator for engine
fiberglass top and bottom cowling from other aircraft
removable turtle deck made with composites
tailwheel
fiberglass interior seat and cloth
firewall
new fiberglass panel
lexan material for windshield and side windows.
doors
airspeed, altimeter, oil pressure and temp, tachometer, hour meter
fabric to complete fuselage.
nitrate and butyrate coatings to finish project
4 gallons of butyrate paint Daytona White
AN hardware to finish project
electric servo trim control which I purchased extra
two complete instruction manuals with pictures
builder's log

To complete the plane, you will need to buy some finishing tapes, more paint, maybe a few nuts and bolts,


here are some other details so there are no surprises
1. I had to bend the front wing attach crossover tube slightly to get the wing bolts to fit. It was professionally reinforced (welded). It won't be visible on the completed airplane. I meant to take a picture of it but I forgot. I can still get one.
2. The Subaru motor mount will have to be modified. It came from a later model which had a deeper fuselage. The bottom attach points on the motor mount will have to be raised to fit the airframe. You could talk to Steve Winder at Airdale Aircraft company for more information.

I would recommend that you buy just the plane kit minus the engine. In my opinion, the engine is a bit heavy for the plane. The recommended engine originally was a Rotax 582. I will sell just the plane kit for $7,500. I have a total of about $13,000 invested so far plus hundreds of hours of labor. )

Well I'm waiting for the man with the avid to send me some more pics to see if its worth the drive to go and see, also been looking at a kitfox 4 kit but he wants too much (in my humble opinion) if I decide on the kit fox I'll give you a shout. I don't know if it would work on the avid or not??

If he doesn't want it I might, what would you want for it?