whizzers

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Posts posted by whizzers

  1. Posted

    I have the following "stuff that needs to go: Projects that aren't gonna happen.

    Peery Experimental Propeller (wood) 64 dia 54 pitch LH tractor. Rotax pattern :Looks good, you determine application and airworthiness. $400 plus shipping

    IVO two blade Ultralight, 72 dia ground adjustable LH Tractor: Rotax pattern $600 plus shipping

    Right hand STOL wing, heavy hauler . .083 spars. Needs some work. Has fuel tank. Make offer, you move.

    Horiz stab off Avid. Make offer

    Rudder off early Kitfox. Make offer

    Items located in Central PA

    Drop  me an e mail.

    Bob McCaa   N5113H;N533SE

     

  5. Posted

    Where I'm at right now/ I have borescoped the engine, and the interior is clean as a hound's tooth. Compressions are over 110PSI on the starter. Oil pressure on the starter 25 psi.To this point I still have no idea what engine I have. There is a new set of spare pistons/jugs that are marked 91.95. I( have to look into the engine again with the borescope to see what's in there.

    I have the test stand nearly done, and as soon as I fabricate an instrument panel for it, I will run the engine up on the test stand. I fabricated an intake system "Y" pipe out of schedule 40 PVC to test it and get dimensions, , but a buddy came up with the intake system off a Great Plains that will fit. If I can find a local metal fabricator that can mandrel bend thin wall, I'll copy it.

    I did a W&B on the plane, and it weighs 540 lbs dry, but the c.g is at 9" behind the leading edge, which is too far forward. I expected that.

    Plan is to run the engine on the test stand, then deal with the airframe. I recognize that it may be a one person airplane, but in over ten years, I have flown a passenger less than a dozen times anyhow.

    Despite what was claimed, I am relatively certain that the plane is actually a "B" model extended speedwing. It has an offset rudder, a side radiator, and  ASUZA wheels with mechanical brakes. Also 3/4 inch lift struts. Probably 950 lbs gross.

     

  6. Posted

    I picked up an AVID last week. The plane appears to be a "C" Model extended speedwing. . .062 spars, 3/4 inch lift struts. HAs  "B" model cowl, radiator on the side.

    The airframe seems to be in good condition, does not seem to have much wear. It has been flown little, if at all. No registration, no logs. It apparently had a Rotax 532 on it at one time.

    At present, there is a HAPI (VW) engine mounted on the airframe. I believe it is a 1600. There is little evidence that it has ever been run on that airframe. For certain it has never flown in that configuration, as the instruments and controls are more appropriate to the Rotax. I'm still evaluating what I have.

    Has anyone actually flown an AVID  with a HAPI on it ?  

    Present plan is to build an engine test stand and see if I can get the HAPI to run mostly out of curiosity. Before that I will do a Weight and Balance. Probably wind up with a ROTAX 582 on it.

    Looking for information. Thanks

     

    Bob McCaa

    Avid N5113H; Avid 533SE

     

     

  12. Posted

    Hello John;

    The airframe you have dates back to the middle 80's. Avid has not been in business for years. The jigs have been sold/resold, and sold again. To my knowledge nobody is making parts, at least for the early stuff. That's the bad news/

    The good news:

    1. There is nothing on that plane that you can't make in your garage if you have any metal and woodworking skills at all. The plane is .035 wall 4130 steel tubing. The spars are .062 wall 6061T6 aluminum. PLywood is aircraft ply, 1/4 inch and 1/8 inch nominal. The windshield is fabricated from a flat sheet of Lexan. Not difficult to do. There was never a pre-fabricated windshield.

    2. The gross weight would be 950 pounds. Maybe 851.

    The plane would fly well enough with a Rotax 503 DCDI. It might originally have had a 532, but the liquid cooling systems are a nuisance.

    3. In the Technical section of this forum, there are available for download, all the build manuals. Also available on the net are plans for the "RAVEN" which is a Chinese copy.

    4. This Forum is as good as it gets. There are others, but they are not very active. Most of the information is here. You may have to dig a bit, but it is here.

     

    Bob McCaa

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  15. Posted

    No part number on these.

    Axle shaft. Overall Length: 5 3/4 "

                       Diameter: 3/4" outside 3/8" inside not threaded inside

    Distance outside plates back to front: 1 1/4"

    Back of mounting plate to end of tube: 2 3/4"

    Tube length: 1 3/8" from brake plate

    Axle outside of tube: 3"

    Rear Plate : 2 3/4 x 2 3/4 x 3/16" thick Holes 1/4" on 1 3/8 centers

    Brake Plate: 2 1/8" x 2 3/4" x 1/8 thick. Holes 1/4" on 1 1/2" and 2 1/4" centers

    Axle 1.JPG

    Axle2.JPG

  17. Posted

    Yea, in order to convert from cable to hydraulic, and do it right, you would have to modify the rudder pedals, which involves taking the bottom off the fuselage. I can think of a number of ways to do it, but none of them easy. Not real hard, but just a pain in the poop. You would need  MC4 series master cylinders without reservoirs, and put a reservoir on the firewall. There is not enough room on the rudder pedals to use a MC 5 master cylinder with a reservoir and still get the geometry right. You need a set of pedals off a late Kitfox, but they might not be the right width.

    Sounds like a winter project.

    I'll stuff those axles back in the box. They're not eating anything.  They're here if you need them.

    Bob

  18. Posted

    From looking at the Matco and Grove sites, these are almost certainly Grove 5012s for the Matco WL60 series wheels. The dimensions mirror the 2.52 bearing spacing used on the Matco.

    If you're looking to use Matco brakes on the Avid, you need to pay close attention to the geometry on the rudder pedal end. The Avid geometry is incorrect for Matco, and that makes the brakes marginal.If you want these, let me know.

    Bob

    .

  23. Posted

    Anybody need a side-mount radiator off a "B" model Avid. I'm cleaning house and it is in imminent danger of a one-way trip to the recycling yard.You pay shipping from 17044. This was mounted to the right side of the fuselage.

     

  25. Posted

    Thanks JIm, but the clearances are much too close. Raising the trailing edge would put the elevator bellcrank against the tailpost, and besides there is a top crossmsmber in the way. The very best solution would be to redesign the mounts a la Kitfox, but that's a major undertaking, and I don't know that the Avid stabilizer is sturdy enough to operate with a single point support strut.

    My overall evaluation is that the leading edge of the speedwing should be about 1" to 1 1/2 higher than it is to compensate for the flat-bottom airfoil, but that WOULD be a major undertaking.

    I have seen the four hole arrangement in the KFs, and brother Tom's KF 4 and KF7 actually has a jackscrew on the leading edge.