FredStork

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Posts posted by FredStork


  1. 4130 for landing gear?

    All is in the first line... I assume 4130 / 25CrMo4 is the correct steel for the landing gear - in the appropriate thickness 0.049 or 0.058, any advice?

    1 person likes this

  2. Matthew,

    So when you say "enriching system" do you mean a primer system that inject a small amount of fuel directly in the carburetor like this "primer kit":

    861620-primer-kit.thumb.jpg.fb0bb45ee4f9 

    or the choke that is normally built in to the Bing carburetor and pulled by a cable?

    The primer works well but is unpleasant as it brings fuel right to the dashboard and as they have a tendency to leak... not nice...
    The chokes are hard to pull but with a lever installed it works fine:

     choke.thumb.jpg.50e9461e82f77e1afe433bc0


  3. I don't like the thought of mounting the engine upside down.  I am going to stretch and widen the mod a and hopefully add a soobie, at least that's what I am trying to do over the winter.

    Hi! What is your concern with the engine upside down? The only real issue I see (and have experienced now on my second upside down 2 stroke) is the tendency to to get oil in the spark plugs when not flying for a longer time (but we have the solution to this, just use "P" model spark plugs).

    The lighter the Avid is the better it behave and the more fun it is to fly. I know everyone want 4 strokes today but personally I think even the 912 is too heavy. 


  4. It is most likely a model C with later modifications retrofitted. Upgrades like luggage compartment, horisontal split cowling (both "D"), and round rudder (not sure when it was introduced) are very frequent. Model C Serial numbers are in the range 250 - 900 according to most sources. There is an avidflyer.wikia page that list the serial number ranges and major differences.

    http://avidflyer.wikia.com/wiki/Models


  5. If it ain't broke don't fix it...
    I know some would argue we are "experimental aircraft" and should therefore not bother what someone else is doing - but this doesn't sound like a good idea.... Turbo list some good reasons.. to start with... 


  6. Hell no!! A loss of a blade could be the last flight of your (and whoever you have with you) life. A lost blade can literally tear the engine off the front of the plane.

    Send that thing to Powerfin. Sometimes if a blade is non-repairable they will work with you on a replacement.

    Always air on the safe side. It's dangerous enough as it is.

    Very true. One simple and cheap thing that could save you when the unbalanced prop ripps the engine mount is a safety cable connecting the engine to the airframe behind the firewall.

    838CEF83-C711-4F31-9F1E-13FCB98B6A73.thu

    5B3E2111-DF6F-4994-89AB-6EFDBC0CD8AA.thu

    1 person likes this

  7. I’m running a Simonini Victor 2 since several years without any issues - and I am in contact with serveral owners around the world (but none in the US) with the same positive experience. It is a modern 2 stroke engine but with higher power and lower consumption than 582. Mine give 92hp and consume 13 l/h. This model is no longer sold, the corrent model give 100hp and similar consumption. Same weight as a 582, similar price and the same attachment point (but the shape of the engine might require some modification to the engine mount.

    More info on my blog...

    http://avidsimonini.blogspot.com/

    1 person likes this

  8. The air intake for my muffler heater will have a scoop im building that will b mounted on the lower fiberglass cowl for easy removale and line backup when put lower cowl backon. Here pic of where comes out thro cowl, still building the aluminum scoop on the english wheel and stretcher to mount on there. Hope it works for me,  Hahhaaaaa

    image.jpg

    You know how to test it! ;-)


  9.  

    Fred if your flying in temperatures around 20 to 32 degrees is that heater sufficient to warm the cabin?  Thanks for your suggestions.

    Well, maybe we should define “sufficient”... as mentioned I would suggest one of the larger models unless you engine is running really hot even below freezing... Mine don’t so the result is not “warm” but rather “less cold”. But as you don’t really start undressing in an Avid the extra degrees are really pleasant and do make a difference.

    But ...to you and Buckchop... if you plan to dry a wet dog a cold winter day this might not be the solution...

    1 person likes this

  10. Heat?  Who needs heat???? Now if someone could come up with a light, cheap air conditioner, I'd jump on it in a second! :P  81 degrees (F) here right now, at noon on 11/9/2018.

    Mark

    Mark, here is a cheap and light air condition for you:
    Avid_open_window.thumb.jpg.d74588b766352

    4 people like this

  11. So i have a question about the heatercore style heater someguys r  puttin in.  With the heater mounted under the dash or whereever in cockpit u mount it, the heater is always useing the same air inside the cockpit to continue to make warm. And with a human or ur canine companion inside the moisture in ur breath and the heater resuculating the warm air will FOG ur windows up somthing bad.

    Buckchop, in theory you are obviously right but in reality, and in the far from airtight cockpit of our favorite planes, it has never been a problem.  


  12. hello,My name is Super_D_robot, I'm still in high school.  

    I have a Avid flyer under construction and have no clue if there is any mods on the plane or the wing.

    got it 11/15/17.

    I looked at some other post and learned to get the weight of the tail gear and I also tried to sort the 5 totes of stuff out.

    Welcome! Looks like a great project.

    You will find a lot of information in this forum and there is always someone to answer any question. I made a full rebuild a few years ago with some documentation on a blog http://avidsimonini.blogspot.com/search/label/Rebuilding the Avid Flyer if that could be of any help. 
    Do robots have first names?
    Regards
    Fred


  13. Agreeing with Yamma-Fox's comment on "safer" I installed a water heater with an electric fan from T7 Design Thermal Solutions (they have distributors in the US) https://www.t7design.co.uk/products/heating/heaters.html  (~115 USD including VAT)

    heater.thumb.JPG.d68406ad7f0e50ba45fc1a4

    I have the 2.2 kW Micro Heater 12 volt model (1.3 lbs). As my Simonini doesn't get that hot maybe I should have gone with the 3.5kw Lightweight model. And I can confirm that it can be used for cooling in the summer. When it is really hot even my Simonini can get warm and turning on the "heater" brings down the temperature. 
    It is connected via a simple T after the water pump and another T just before the main radiator. No valves, i.e.always open, it is therefore always warm but unless I turn on the fan it doesn't really heat the cabin so no issues in the summer.

    2 people like this

  14. Better safe than sorry... Unless you can send up your mother-in-law as test pilot I would send the blade to Power Fin for verification.  

    1 person likes this

  15. Yes, I always land with flaps (except on some mountain strips) to land at lowest possible speed. It is a good practice for the day you need it. Slower speed also reduces the tendency to bounce (as does killing the flaps...). When it pitches forward to keep the speed but just pull the stick back and see how wonderfully slow the Avid can fly. 


  16.  

    I have my throttle on the left side of the seat, with the left hand always resting on the throttle so I pilot with the right hand and now also brake with the right hand. I got a 20 euro motor cycle brake handle from china, works great...  

    The (my) only inconvenience with the right hand on the stick is for killing the flaps at touchdown. If you fly with the left hand and throttle with the right hand the right hand will be free for the flaps (flaperons)... Thinking about how to make a double command for the flaps on the left side of the seat... Another winter project... 


  17. Just watched the video.  Seems to work okay. I bought mine from Black Max brakes.  Both master cylinders and levers are mounted together.  Roll your hand left for the left turn and roll your hand right for a right turn, pull both for full stop.   No switch,  all mechanical. I'm going to mount it on the right side of the seat just behind the throttle.  Simple. 

    Yes, and the interesting part is that even if I just use the common main and brake on both tires I can still maneuver very well. Obviously not super sharp turns but when applying moderate brake and rudder you can turn surprisingly sharp. If I didn't do mountain flying (where the room for maneuvers, like in bush flying, sometimes is limited) I would onbly have the stick hand brake and not bothered by the switch.  

    Being able to easily apply equal brake force when you need to slow down quickly really makes a difference. It is also easy to raise the tail before starting the take off roll and keep it up while decreasing the brake power when gaining speed. A little dip of the tail and you are of the ground. Just like the big boys.