nlappos

Here is the Rotax page for downloading everything. It is also freshened by Rotax, of course:
 
https://www.rotax-owner.com/en/support-topmenu/engine-manuals

As an observation for my Mk IV, there is no friction as such. On the ground the stick feels heavy due to the weight of the elevator, but the motion is free and not at all sticky. I suspect any friction will come from some rod or crank rubbing in the area just aft of the stick, under the seat and into the mixer behind the seat. I would look hard to find it just to be sure.

THe main problem is that we all post what we believe, or what we were told, or what we remember, so it becomes clear as mud. Then we say stuff like "wow it's confusing." No it is not confusing, it is as clear as can be, if we bother to just read what the manufacturer said to do. This is from the installation manual, written 19 years ago:
 
 
 

One of our members is a very experienced tail dragger instructor who checked me out. He lives in the SFO area, but travels as needed, I think. I bet he could also line up a suitable aircraft for a checkout at Palo Alto, his home turf, if you were willing to travel. Marco Caflisch is his name, he has a facebook page

here is the written quote showing that custom brackets are required at $500 for the set. Total for a Mk IV is $2900
Est_2533_from_Grove_Aircraft_Landing_Gear_Systems_Inc._1932.pdf

The Grove needs to have the mount shaped carefully. The aluminum beam bends around the upper attach brackets, which are "pillow blocks" that carefully shape the bend as the hard landing is executed, and that bend determines the strength of the gear. When I tried to buy Grove gear they quoted $500 for those aluminum attach brackets (which made the entire gear package almost $3000 (and made it a non-starter).
If some of those guys who have the gear attach blocks could carefully document the shape, it should be easy to have them machined.

I priced the Grove gear for my Avid MK IV, and it was over $3000 when you toss in the required pillow blocks and such. I tried to talk them down, and got nowhere. The Lowell Fitt (HighWing LLC) gear I bought was about $1500 total, and it is terrific.

The authorities put the car there, and later a big truck, to try to retune the oscillations. The problem was that the roadbed was too soft in its twisting strength, so it fluttered like a stop sign in the wind. Earlier suspension bridges used strong stiff boxes for the road bed, this one was made lighter and cheaper. See how deep the box that forms the roadbed is on the Brooklyn Bridge, which was built 50 years earlier than the Tacoma Narrows. That deep box prevents the twisting. See the shot of the original bridge, how shallow the roadbed box is, and then see how strong the box is on the repaired bridge, which is the green one closest in the photo (the pylons were not damaged in the roadbed collapse.)


 

Nope as long as we are ruining this site for politics, why should anyone answer your question?

Imagine someone dumb enough to vote for this guy!

I redid my old Avid brakes using new thin master cylinders that allow me to get much more leverage between my pedal and the cylinder - see the picture below, the old master cylinder hole is clearly shown, the new hole gives about 21/2 times more pedal force and 2 1/2 times more brake pressure. The only work was to drill the new holes, fit the cylinders to them, and hang the small external reservoir. I did have to shorten the cylinder threaded ends a little to fit the cylinder into the old space.
I now can hold my Avid Mk IV on the ground against 5500 engine rpm (with a 670 engine, probably about 60 HP) and the brakes feel rock hard when I press.
 

akflyer, this was a nice place to escape the crap that infests the internet. Think hard about your decision to let off topic political crap on a regular "hangar" site. It is a big decision you are making to support that crap. Can I suggest that you move it to Hangar Talk, which says it is specifically "A place for non-flying chit chat". That way we can avoid it easily?

I use a baggage compartment tank as my aux fuel, it has a vented cap. It is far lower than the wing tank of course. I use a check valve in the supply line from the aux tank to prevent any down flow, and I use a facet pump that lifts the fuel into the main tank, and feeds it thru a small hole in the wing root so all the aux fuel can do is refill the main tank. That way I don't mess with original, proven engine feed at all. 

This garbage is what ruins forums. Get rid of it.
 

I had so much engine ignition noise no radio would work, here is what I did that worked well, explained in this thread:   http://www.avidfoxflyers.com/index.php?/topic/3636-noisy-radio-emi-fix/

yep:  
Fatal error: Undefined constant 'IPS\MONTH_DAY_FORMAT' in /home/content/41/11975741/html/system/DateTime/DateTime.php on line 175

Absolutely, guys, bolt center to center on the forward mount bracket measures 32 7/8" on my Avid.

Hawth
One aspect that needs attention: The cabane for the kitfox is about 7/8" shorter than my Avid Mark IV. The distance between the two forward gear bracket bolts is 32 7/8 ". Lowell remade the cabane and it fit very well. I am sure he has adjusted his tooling but I thought I'd let you know.

Great question but be sure to ask for ADSB-Out, otherwise this thread will fill with stuff that won't help. So far I see nothing south of $1000 that will help us.

I don't know, frankly, if there are variants - I don't think so, but if you PM me I will send you Lowell's email and you can ask. He is a great guy.
Nick

Jim, you have sharp eyes! The old one split so I pulled it, and have replaced it since the pic was taken. The water pump/thermostat is just like a 582, and the thermostat has a small weep hole in it.
I found the extra horses of the 670 just pushed my two nose radiators too far, I couldn't even ground run without temps climbing, so I put the belly rad on. Now, I can continuously climb at full throttle on a 95 degree day at 6000 feet with temps within limits. But I think that belly rad costs about 4 mph. Today I cruised at 84 tas, 74 ias, 7500 feet, 5.1 gph, 5900 rpm. That is 4 mph slower than I previously posted with the belly rad up closer to the belly. The lower radiator is very effective.
I noticed that the cowling was hot to the touch, and the engine was far leaner when the cowling was on (higher carb inlet temp).  I put a digital meat thermometer under the cowl with the temperature probe against the carburetor inlet filter. I noticed that the carburetor inlet air temperature was running about 25° above ambient, so that on a 95° day, i had 120°F  carb inlet temperature. That was robbing power for sure, and also leaning the mixture a bit.. I carved a 2 inch hole on the right side of the engine cowling forward, right opposite the carburetor inlets. I took the rotating window scoop out of one side window and popped it into that 2 inch hole and directed the air against the carburetors. Today's flight showed that the carburetor inlet temperatures were now about 10° above ambient, so that during my flight they never got above 97°. I'll post a picture of that little vent when I get a chance(when it's painted and doesn't have a piece of pistachio green duct tape to keep it from rotating!)
Today was proof day, I flew across the desert for almost an hour out and 45 back, and everything worked great. The engine is smooth and powerful 550 fpm with 260 lbs of me, full gas at 7000 feet/90 degrees (that is almost 11,000 density alt!). I have 0.3 hr to go on the reopened Phase I, then I sign it off.
To recap my experience so far, the 670 is terrific but calls attention to cooling. It starts well and runs smoothly. I rigged EGT's and the Hacman leaning device and both work well. The warp drive propeller is terrific, very smooth in all flight aspects, and pretty easy to set to well below 1 degree. The Lowell Fitt "Highwing LLC" gear is unbelievable, it changes the character of the aircraft during landing and makes me look a lot better than I am.
I realize that I should publish the weights! The aircraft was 543 lbs empty when I bought it (vice the 1150 MGW), I added a 6 gallon aux tank, avionics and weighed the handheld radio and headset I always carry, and the 582 came in at 560 lbs. With the 670, it’s exhaust, the new Fitt gear, the belly radiator and a new double tail spring, it now weighs 580 lbs. so I have 570 lbs of useful load, not too shabby. Some details:
670 engine 89.5 lbs
Starter and housing plate 5.5 lb
Bing 54 carbs 4.0 lb (2carbs)
Dual air filter and clamps  1.0 lb
Full exhaust, brackets and hangers weighs 13 lbs
total Engine install weight is 113.0 lbs including exhaust.

I think Jim and I have the same gear, built by Lowell Fitt, it is the Highwing LLC gear. I agree with Jim, it makes landings look good, and tolerates much more pilot error while landing smoothly and straight. I also calculated that it is at least as strong as the gear on certified aircraft, and tolerates about 12 feet per second of drop (FAR requires 8 feet per second).
It is 72" wide to the center of the tires and about 80" wide to the outside. As Jim said it takes the Avid 3/4" axle and the wheel brake assemblies that I had on my Mk IV.
It also costs about half of what the Grove gear costs. I installed it in an afternoon.
 
 

To quote Buzz Lightyear from Toy Story, when you fly a powered parachute, "You're not flying, you're falling with style!"

One way to spot the right picture in yaw is to sit in the seat and then spot the line on the cowling that points straight ahead to the horizon, then put a stripe of bright masking tape on the cowling from the windshield to the front, right along that line you spotted. As you land, practice yawing the airplane to make the stripe line up with the runway, and be sure to land straight ahead.