Dusty

Flying backward is fun.One of our local pilots flew a circuit,maintaining an into wind heading the whole way!

45 kts is the most I have flown in.to add insult to the situation,even the logging trucks were passing me like I was standing still.

I changed to Dex cool about 200 hours ago nil problems.A Small irritating weep from the waterpump (912)at rest went away almost straight away.my 582 has done around 500 hours over 5 years with Dex cool cool,at maintainance time the radiator and engine are spotless.

Oops my mistake. They look very similar. The timeline suggests that this design may have been carried on at a later stage by a different manufacturer

That's a rare plane! Auster Agricola.great to see another still exists.

welding a gusset  behind this broken tube would help to reinforce this area. This aircraft has 750 hours on it. It is an Avid mark 4 912

It wouldn't hurt to put a gusset to reinforce the tube running up and back from the tail Spring mount.we just found this to be broken on a recent inspection 

The one with the rubber plug would be difficult to install dual ignition. Also, the gearbox mounting area would need to be welded and then machined, which may be more effort than it's worth.The earlier case 670 is the one you want. Btw even the cranks are different as the flywheel key is 90 degree out. so make sure you get the correct crank and case. All other parts seem to be interchangeable .So the short answer is no. It won't work.

cheers

Dusty

Generally ,if there is a rubber plug on the top of the flywheel housing the end of the crankcase can't be readily adapted for a gearbox. The engine with provision for an ignition pickup on the left and right side (like a 582)is the one you want.

I assume the outer sleeve can be removed once the rivets are drilled and some heat applied to loosen the glue? I am helping return an avid with issues back to a fly able condition, this incident raises a red flag so best be sure.

All aero engines with single ignition are Bosch points as (if I am correct ) Nippon wouldn't supply their units for aviation use. The snowmobile equivalent  which I can't remember the designation had the Nippon units and they are an easy retrofit.

Not sure of the change date but later 503 engines  had a heavier crank.the early 503 is nearly indestructible as I doesn't make enough power to hurt itself! The only mod I would reccomend is installing a Nippon denso Cdi  ignition from a snowmobile,as the points need adjusting about every 30 hours which is a PITA,bad points =bad timing = crank problems! My 503 has 1200 hours and has only needed the crank seals replaced. The value here would be the price of the gearbox plus a little for the engine

Get well soon Ian,catch you in the new year

I streamlined my tail struts with no noticeable difference. I did my jury struts and believe I may have gained at least a couple of knots.

Caster is usually the number one culprit.Another useful item (which may not work on Jenki's setup) is to replace the tension springs with compression springs.Maybe the internal friction or the higher spring rate somehow dampens the shimmy?

Interesting solution to keeping the heat off the lower engine mounts.Those mounts do burn

Loving the spring summer,the wind is just a little unsettled.Anothe few weeks should see it right .

Stainless pop rivets will sort the old holes

Traditional aerodynamics don't apply to zeniths especially 701's as they don't actually fly!

They are so ugly,the earth just repels them

You need to let pressure out as well as air in,If it isn't vented as the fuel/vapour expands with heat you may get a pressurised tank,which may cause problems.

A screw clamp at the base of the cap will keep it on also.

A heat gun or hair dryer will also kickstart a dodgy module.

Yup,must get past the rings, as my drifter (inverted 503) with premix needs the plugs washed if left unused for more than two weeks.The oil injection on my 582 fox has an interesting quirk, the pump must leak but into one carb bowl.During  inspections the rear float chamber has a red colour in it,and on startup will start well then run rough with a lot of smoke.My brothers 582 fox has exactly the same quirk.

Don't be tempted to move the undercarrage forward,you will creat more problems than you will solve.

Your cables sound very similar to kitfox ones.A push bike shop should be able to sell you some cable kits,the large ferrule may need some dressing down to fit.for the carb end use the sleeve off a stainless steel rivet,to clamp on ,use a brake hose flaring tool to clamp the rivet shank to the cable.This should be enough (I could hang my weight in them)but for safety I silver soldered the ends as well.If you make a pair on the bench when you fit them the adjusters won't be even(OCD I know!)as the bend radius makes a surprising difference.

cheers 

paul

If you can find an "E" gearbox you won't have to modify your firewall.They shift the cg forward but not as far as a vw.