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  1. eskflyer

    Posted

    Gunpowder works great for adjusting pitch of the blades on IVO . It also facilitates the takeoff performace enhancing it greatly . Makes big boom hurling aircraft skyward in vertical launch. If installed correctly you will soon have your own wings to fly with , no more worries about about fuel or prop hubs or 912 versus 660 turbo aftercooled cheaper than rotax engine .

    Gotta love it .  :siterocks::beerchug::sharedoobie:

  2. akflyer

    Posted

    the prop stays where you last had it...If I have it set for cruise, then on take off on floats I only turn about 5100 to 5300... truley sucks..  I will be using Ground adjustable this week till the new motor gets in.

  3. 84KF

    Posted

    Does the prop return to low pitch (high rpm) when the fault occures or does it stay at the setting it was at when the failure occures?

    I know nothing about the system....just wondering.

    BTW....HOGDEN's Pyrodex RS is a good powder....smokeless too. 

  5. akflyer

    Posted

    Well inthe last two months we have lost two of the electric motors on the IFA prop.  It appears the wires that run from the brushes to the hub are rubbing on the internal bolt that runs through the motor and grounding out.  The system comes with a breaker that has never popped.  I am overnighting my motor back to IVO today and will see what they come up with.  For you guys that have the IFA, you may want to pull the spinner off and then the back plate from the motor and take a look at the wires.  You dont have to remove the prop from the plane to see what I am talking.  It may take a little gun powder to get the spinner off though....

  8. 84KF

    Posted

    Ok..

    My plane sat for a few years in a (good) hanger before I got it, and it  had been left with autofuel in the tank. (the owner had died) In time the gas had evaporated., no doubt leaving gum and varnish on the walls of the tanks.

      I flushed the tanks numerous times hoping to remove any loose crap from the tanks after I purchased the plane, but I've heard that the gum andor varnish will stay on the walls and bottom the tanks until fresh gas, and time, allows the stuff to dissolve and circulate in the system and then cling to certain materials andor objects.....such as the low fuel probe in the header tank.

    All this is speculation on my part, and I claim no expertiese on the actual cause.

  10. 84KF

    Posted

    To remove a stuck spinner....

    Remove the boltscrew from the tip.

    Using a small funnel and small hose, fill spinner approx 1/4 to 3/4 full with gun powder.

    Insert a small firecracker into the hole leaving the fuse exposed.

    Light fuse.

    Run, at a right angle to the longitudinal axis of the airframe.

    Problem solved.

    Note: Gunpowder is not FAA approved, therefor use only on experimental a/c.

    For FAA certificated a/c, substitution with 100 LL avaition gas instead of gunpowder MIGHT be acceptable.

    In the case of extream spinner siezure, perhaps a combination of both will facilitate the removal of same.

  15. akflyer

    Posted

    Dear Steve,

    If I try to put a new bolt in my tail wheel and it is too short to hit the lock nut, or to short to get a cotter key in, is the bolt really to short for safe operations?  Just wondering before I take a chance on ground looping and wrecking my nice plane over a 2.00 bolt..  I mean, how does one tell if the bolt really is too short. :sharedoobie:

  16. akflyer

    Posted

    I have been looking around for an alternative engine to get a bit more power for my Avid. 65 HP is fine for wheels and pounding pavement but that is just not what I am into.

    I have been looking at the Arctic Cat 660 turbo for awhile now and think this may warrant really looking into what it will take to put the "C" gear box on it.

    Raven RE-drive has been using the 3 Cylinder Suzuki engine for awhile now with good success, but that was the car motor. This is the cut down version for the snowmachines. I am working on getting an AUW for the various components but It will for sure be better than the subie by a long shot.

    Stock it is a 72% increase in HP (110 HP (at) 6700) and at cruise a 82% increase in torque... this means more pitch go faster at cruise..

    If you want to monkey with boost and fuel curve etc the HP is nothing short of holy shit..just once I would like to take off on floats with 145 to 160 HP..Gotta be like flying a turbine otter empty with very little fuel.

    I know I know, there are gonna be those who say... yeah but the rotax 912 is tried and true and aircraft specific blah blah blah...I can promise that I beat the snowmachine engines WAY harder than I would ever fly the plane under way worse conditions.  Cold starts at -50 with no pre-heat etc..I would not think twice about flying behind this engine IF the weight and gear box work out.  Worst case I would have to put the raven re-drive belt drive system, but I really want to keep the clutch for float operations.

    I definately warrants a good look..

    I was also considering the 1100 2 cylinder 4 stroke, but I think the 3 cyl 660 will be smoother and more fuel efficient.  Time will tell.

    DTRcat660JDPOWER2.doc.pdf

  17. akflyer

    Posted

    I got an order in for the new Arctic Cat 800 EFI engine.  It is dual plug etc.  The worst part will be adapting the gear box to it, but I dont think that will be too bad.  The dyno results show what should be nothing less than greattake off and climb performance....Cant wait to play with this engine on floats!  And if this does not do the trick, the 1000 EFI will turn 140 HP on take off...

    219_stock_800_dyno_results_jpgea5fc3c553