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Ahh..., the good old days. I love this picture.
Fi-156 Fieseler Storch
Argus AS-10 Inverted V-8
Dual carbs
All German instrumentation
retail value $250,000.00
One may see her sister ship at Kermit Weeks museum in Florida. We had 5.
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glad to hear you are back in the air!
Some people swear by the seafoam, but I put it in a boat last year for winterization and was not to impressed...took forever to get he shit outa the tank this year, and when I pulled the filters it smelled like dead fish...the only thing I did different from previous years was seafoam in the tank..
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".....the body has a way of blocking shit out..."
I agree totally.
But the engine itself does not suffer from such. I would find it difficult to believe that a post-accident inspection of the same would not give some indication of malfunction.
And I would find it even harder to believe that the operator of that engine would not inquire into what that malfunction was.
Of course sharing this information is his choice.
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hmmm. Dont know if he really knows... I was a while after I stuffed mine in that I actually remembered the last 20 seconds or so before I hit..the body has a way of blocking shit out...
On the other hand... temerature inversion me thinks thats a pretty damn far reach... and I have a pretty darn good imagination and drink alot too
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Cyl head went back on.., repaired muffler went back on (with brace)..., serviced the fluids..., and she fired right up and runs great.
I wonder how many of those " 912 running rough" complaints couldcan be traced to intake valve & seat deposits?
I decided to stay with the Mobile 1 full synthetic oil as I believe this episode was the result of fuel additives that were left on the tanks walls as the gas evaporated during its years of inactivity and then worked their way back into solution and then the system over the 20+ hours of fresh gas since I have had it.
From some research I have done, a normal amount of additives will help keep valve deposits to a minimum but in excess it will result in just what my pictures indicate.
Google "intake valve deposits" if you wish to learn more.
I am also going to use something called "SEAFOAM" in the first 10 or so gallons of gas to (hopefully) clean the other heads.
Anyone familiar with this product? I'm not.
steve
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Will we ever find out the cause of the mystery oil temp and pressure loss? According to the FAA http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id=20070911X01376&key=1 "Witnesses reported hearing a "pop" as the airplane was heading in a westerly direction toward O61, and subsequently observed it making a forced landing before responding to the accident site."
Oh..I forgot...temperature inversion.
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The muffler was brand new from Skystar (Kitfox). Apparently the "new and improved" product has the same inherent weakness that the older ones have...as you still have to install your own brace from the stinger pipe to the body of the muffler. This is not part of the $375.00 muffler, and this information was not passed on to me by Skystar at the time of purchase.
I guess this is the name of the game in experimental "stuff", but when a product fails repeatedly in the "real" world, the manufacturer will re-design its product so as to eliminate the problem... not offer a supposedly "fixed" product, that still requires the same old quick fix.
Oh well..live and learn.
The only option I received from Skystar was to "Send the muffler back to us and we will take a look at it for repair…" (that was the entire reply)
I weighed the cost of shipping it back, then the cost of the actual repair..., after it would be determined that it was "my" fault, then the cost of return shipping and decided to have it repaired locally for $40.00
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damn.. looks like the valves have been 150,000 miles not 55 hrs..
Did you threaten Rotax to place the broken muffler in places it should never go if it breaks again??
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The head went back on just fine and the pull through compression is now strong and tight. I get the repaired muffler back Monday.
I like the Rotax use of rubber seals and o-rings. No need to have a new gasket on hand for rocker covers, etc...
steve
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That's just it.... about 55 hrs TT since new.
The previous owner had put about 35 hrs TT on it, and it ran great when I got it. When you pulled the prop thru by hand it had excellent compression. You could "feel" each cylinder 'pop" as it went through it's strokes.
I have only used Shell V-Power(the 'premium) auto gas and Mobile 1 full synthetic oil. That will change now, but to what I haven't decided.
A visual check of the valve and seat, now that they are clean, shows them to be in excellent shape, with no warping, chips, or scratches. I guess the real test will be after it is back on the cylinder.
There is one more that needs attention also, but after seeing this one, I might just try a strong dose of Marvel Mystry Oil in the fuel before I pull that one.
The heads affected are both the rear. Front ones feel fine.
Attached are the pictures...not a pretty sight.
steve
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Steve
Out of curiosity how many hours do you have on the 912. And what fuel do you burn?. I will not ask if you use TCP, lmfao.
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I say me thinks your right Steve . And yes it is called a condition inspection . There is a big difference .
John
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Well, here is the first comment on the "other" site.
" I use white lithium graese on mine because......."
White lithium grease....good for tractors. Just a dirt magnet on aircraft.
My opinion, and I'm sticking to it.
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.....I am going to cut and paste questions from 'another' site that I have an opinion on.
Here is a recent question....
"I am doing my annual on my plane, and wanted to know if lubrication is required for the guide bushing? if so LPS1 or TRIFLOW. Can someone help."
First.., it is called a "condition report", not an "annual" Proper nomenclature is important
Second, if it moves...lube it. With what depends on how much dirt you wish to accumulate on the partspieces. Some lubricants will attract and-or hold dustdirt more than others. Items such as starter Bendix gears call for dry lubricants such as silicone spray to prevent this accumulation.
Third, clean then re-lube. Take a look at the sticky, gummy finish that develops on control yoke shafts in a typical "real" plane. A quick wipe with mineral spirits will remove this gunk, and a light rub with lube will restore the smoothness of the shaft and it will slide as if on butter.
So...if the bushings mentioned above are nylon, bakelite, etc..., one would do well to clean the rubbing surface, and lube with some product such as (dry) silicone or graphite to reduce future contamination. Sure, you could leave it dry and clean, but anything that reduces ANY friction is a benefit.
But hey...I'm just an A&P. I'm sure if you ask a dentist or plumber you will get a different opinion.
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I tracked down the problem of a lowno compression cylinder to the intake valve and seat. With the intake manifold off you could see the air bubbles when on the compression stroke. Looks totally gummed andor carbon'd over. (top side, not the face)
Exhaust side look perfect, and clean.
I have taken the cylinder head off and valve out and am in the process of cleaning and resurfacing.
Pictures soon to follow. Check back soon.
It will be more interesting then TCP and fiberglass.
steve
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What the hell??? That looks the same as your last one..is there an update on the way they hang it to stop vibes?
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Damn that sucks . Time for the . Did you order from Skystar or the new Kitfox Company?. Hope you get back in the air soon.
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Less than 5 hours on a new $350+ Reinforced Muffler system for the Rotax 912S engine. (Requires return of header tubes)
Now standard in all 912-engine component kits. http://kitfox.lazair.com/skystar/upgrades_and_performance_enhance.htm
Engine starts smooth, runs smooth, shuts down smooth, and extra large cowl thru-hole.
No excuse for this
I'll wait till I cool down before I contact Skystar..... GGRRRRRR.
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Yes... must be "pusher..., or this happens.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-1043799803814592441
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Looks just like the crap I got our of my tanks wheni bought my plane . It had been sitting in Dallas Ft Worth for 3 years not flying full of gas or should i say full of gummy used to be gas . When we steamed the tanks out there was still a residue that even MEK would not take off very easy. The tank outlet finger strainers were ruined and not cleanable . I say it is just varnish from crappy gasoline .
Just my opinion and we all know what opinions are like .
Will someone tell him????
in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar
84KF
Posted
...just posted on the list
"The only expenses I've had related to my Kitfox....."
"That said, I'm fortunate in that I have a local A&P that is willing to inspect and sign off on minor work that I've done on the aiplane. If I had not had that advantage, I would have had to take the airplane to an A&P for all the little nitpicky things that inevitably pop up with any airplane (more often I believe with all but the most exceptional experimentals). To list a few, I've had to replace the fuel lines, replace the gascolator, repack the tail wheel bearings and re-glue a de-bonded aileron trailing edge. I believe that owners of experimental airplanes mitigate cost by doing these kinds of jobs themselves. If you're not planning on building your airplane, the only way you can do this is if you find an A&P that is willing to sign off on your work. This is not trivial and if you can't find this then your ownership costs will be much higher (unless you intend to do the work anyway which I wouldn't recommend and is illegal)."
What's wrong with this picture? Come on (List) people...learn your regs as they pertain to amateur-built experimental. JEEEZE.
No certificate or rating of any kind is required to perform maintenance, repair, or modification on an experimental amateur-built aircraft. The only time a specific certificate is necessary is when performing the condition inspection each year, as required by the aircraft's operating limitations.
Ten minutes later, someone posts this incorrect response.....
"Hi Andrew, even if your not the builder of the aircraft there are many maintenance things that are allowed by the FAA if you are the owner of the aircraft.
Post subject: Preventive Maintenance thats allowed ....."
That's for certificated (real) aircraft and is found in Appendix A to Part 43 --Major Alterations, Major Repairs, and Preventive Maintenance.
Half an hour later..., in reply to e-mail........
"Hi again after checking this , you are right about maint. only if you are the builder, if you did not build the aircraft then you as owner can only do what the FAA calls pilot owner preventive maint.
GB"
You can lead a pilot to a runway, but ya can't make him land.
Last week i cudn't even spell A&P....this week i are one.