Activity Stream

Activity Stream



  1. dholly added a post in a topic Setting wings to fuselage (a.k.a. calculating wing sweep)   

    Well, I measured between the spar ends side-to-side last night and the difference was 1/4" exactly front vs. rear spars. I guess that makes sense as that was the diff between the tip and root plumb lines. IIRC, the measure between the f/r spar pin holes is 27-1/2", so with the spar length of 144" those three measures should allow figuring the sweep %. Now I just gotta ask one of my kids to do the math figuring! 

    I told Brett to make me up one pair each of long ribs w/ flaperon hangers, short ribs, and the special transitional root ribs for speed wings without the oem f/g wrapped fuel tanks. About my wing tank decision... I know I'm not using the oem f/g tanks and 99% certain I'll use the poly tanks, but still not exactly sure how I will install. Last night one set of eyes belonged to a EAA Tech Counselor who brought a few new suggestions to ponder. I've been reluctant to use (2) of the poly tanks in a wing, if for nothing more than the slooow fuel transfer between tanks when filling. I really don't want to spend 1/2 hour while the fuel burbles thru the tiny connecting lines. Obviously, increasing dia. of those lines is an option, as are two filler necks. I don't like the look/drag of using two raised necks/caps per wing, let alone the leak potential of the lower cap. I could use a flush cap on the outboard tank and raised on the inboard for aesthetics, hoping the dihedral and fuel equilibrium level with both tanks full would not exceed the level of a raised filler neck on the lower inboard tank. Personally, I don't think it would and therefore the cap seal become critical. Another alternative suggested would be to use (2) tanks per wing but plumb each separately. I had planned on fuel shutoffs for each wing before the header for fuel management, maintenance etc., so instead of a simple on/off valve I could use a L/R/B/O selector on each side and re-label inboard/outboard/both/off. Some fuel line spaghetti to deal with but flush fillers in all (4) tanks would make for a really good looking install, IMHO. So, still lots to think about... Comments welcome!
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  2. dholly added a post in a topic Firewall   

    Jack - re: fire stop paint, see link in my prior post. You don't need to treat galv., but my thought was since you typically have to use a heavier gauge of galv. vs stainless to get equal fire resistance, using a thinner gauge galv. with the fire stop paint might provide protection equal to stainless at the same or less weight at a lessor price altogether. Most important if I can source the galv. locally because .018 and .020 304 SS sheet seems to missing in action around here.
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  3. akflyer added a post in a topic Gas tank leaking   

    woo hoo making progress.. I have been on a boat kick and have not done any of the crap to the plane I wanted to.  Next week maybe


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  4. jackak added a post in a topic Setting wings to fuselage (a.k.a. calculating wing sweep)   

    Yes, I doubt that moving your datum about 1/8" forward will make much difference.  If you go with the Subaru it will even help.  The actual weighing will give you the true story on the w&b.  I guess you'll have to make your own pattern for the doubler holes. No biggee, eh?
    Are going to leave the spacer boards in place while you glass in your tanks, or what set-up did you end up with?  Were your carry-throughs and bushings actually the right distance apart?
    Jack 
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  5. jackak added a post in a topic Firewall   

    Sounds like a plan.  What is firestop paint?  I'm using galvanized and didn't think you needed to treat it.
    Jack
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  6. Bandit added a post in a topic Gas tank leaking   

    Got the Pro Seal in last week. Let it cure over the weekend. Then patched the access holes. Put gas in it let it sit for a day. Moved the wing up and down and side to side, no sign of leaks. Reglued tank edge to rear spar. I'll let that cure, then I'll putty the tank and fiberglass the tank to around the rear spar.
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  7. dholly added a post in a topic Firewall   

    Thanks for the help Jack, I knew it was close and didn't want to order small. Maybe I'll compare weight and price vs. galvanized with FireStop paint, and try to find a lightweight heat/cold insulation and sound dampener material while I'm at it.
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  8. dholly added a post in a topic Setting wings to fuselage (a.k.a. calculating wing sweep)   

    Well, probably could do that, though I'm not so sure I want/need to. I'm not concerned about excessive forward sweep, there is only a +1/4" sweep from tip to root. I have help coming over this evening to remove the wings so I can get the doublers installed. Before we do that, I'll fold the wings out and measure the side-to-side diff between the front and rear spar ends. Since all spars are 144" LOA and I don't have my root ribs on yet, that should give me more accurate measure points than attempting to use my rib location tape marks. Then, try to do some fancy trigonometry like the KF-7 example.

      Ouch,  my head hurts already...

    P.S. - if you look close, you an see the pre-drilled center rivet holes on the largest doublers do not correspond with the line drawing pattern. Not my doing!   

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  9. jackak added a post in a topic Setting wings to fuselage (a.k.a. calculating wing sweep)   

    Doug,
    It doesn't look like you've installed your spar doublers yet, couldn't you use them to get your wings back to o deg sweep?  I'd bet the doublers are the items that provide the real strength at the spar attach points. I know the holes in the spars might no be round anymore but does it matter?  I wonder if Steve Winder is reading this, and if he or another of the original Avid crew could comment?
    Jack 
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  10. jackak added a post in a topic Firewall   

    Doug,
    I made my own firewall and it turned out to be about 27" tall, with about 1 1/2" wrapped around the bottom and about 34" wide.  So, a piece 30"x 36" should do it.  I used an old C model firewall to get the general size and bent aluminum to make the flange. 
    Jack
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  11. dholly added a topic in Fat Avids, Avid Plus and Airdale   

    Firewall
    Did anybody get a factory supplied firewall with their Avid+ kit? I'm ready to order some 304 Stainless .018 for firewall and need to confirm the size. Will 3' x 2' be enough, or do I need to order a 4' x 3' sheet? Looks real close but I don't have a cowl on hand yet, planning on using a Kitfox Series 5/6 smooth cowl for Rotax. Thanks.
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  12. dholly added a post in a topic Amphib Float Controls   

    Jack -

    The J-bar must connect to the pulley wheel tower with a solid push/pull tube, no flexibility allowed. The gear retract teleflex cables run from the floats up through the rear struts, then to the cable brackets as shown in the install manual pic. I will need to locate both the pulley wheel and the cable brackets externally below the fuse. Plan is to have the pulley tower bolt extend into the fuse thru a curved slot in an access cover. The bigger issue becomes the potential interference between those parts and a belly radiator. I need to find examples of how/where these are most often mounted. I've seen some at the lower cowling outlet and some back further between the gear brackets.

    Re Arlington: I bet the economy did have an impact this year, I have to pass on OSH for the first time in many years. I just can't afford OSH, a family vacation and a bunch of expensive airplane parts all at once this year. I'm not happy about it but I'd rather have the parts and keep building.

    P.S.  Leni - gotta do what ya gotta do... trust me, it's only a problem when the gear is up!     
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  13. jackak added a post in a topic Amphib Float Controls   

    Doug,
    The belly mount idea sounds like it may just work.  Good luck.  A teleflex cable down to the pulley would be an easy way to connect it with your johnson bar.
    Jack


    Leni,
    Your next project sounds like an interesting onem  An "experimental made from parts" is what they call them, I think.
    Jack

    Arlington was a let down this year.  Not much going on at all.  Very few planes and fewer vendor to check out.  But, the weather was good.  The economy?
    Jack
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  14. akflyer added a post in a topic Amphib Float Controls   

    I am thinking this is the very first time I have ever heard a guy say he need, or wanted to shorten his johnson bar

    Looking good, like the cardboard patterns!


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  15. akflyer added a post in a topic Tired of all the negative on my plane so here's some positive   

    I am seeing no red flags.. I would think if i was to have anyone do an install for me, Dean would be the guy.

    The plane looks good.. take her for a flight.  Put a coat of silver on the bad spots and fly it... she dont have to have a top coat to fly.

    Just got back from a couple hours of sky burning (yep, it was good).  Off to go help a buddy time his 532 and get his plane in the air.


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  16. dholly added a post in a topic Amphib Float Controls   

    These pics show what needs fixin'. I think extending the control tube 3" will result in enough clearance for the right stick, still need to shorten the Johnson bar.



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  17. C5Engineer added a post in a topic My covering again.....   

    Actually I think it was butyrate thinner. Found this site today regarding latex paint. I think I'm gonna try it on the elevator and see how the finish comes out.

    http://lazair.com/housepaint.htm
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  18. dholly added a post in a topic Setting wings to fuselage (a.k.a. calculating wing sweep)   

    912ul or R.A.M. built EA-81, 912uls in my dreams 
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  19. 84KF added a post in a topic My covering again.....   

    "........ thinned with nitrate.    Ahh... there's (possibly) your problem. Don't use nitrate anything after or over butyrate.

    Try using butyrate thinner..., better yet mix your own with clear butyrate and the special silver paste.


    A fabric patch is a poor band-aid and the defect will still show underneath...., if it could be made not to show, you wouldn't neet the patch.... and the adhesion of the patch will only be as good as the paint its glued to.

    My plan was to keep putting on layers of silver and sanding it down till it was built back up enough to spray some paint on it...........  This is still the best plan.
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  20. C5Engineer added a post in a topic My covering again.....   

    I was using Rand O Fill silver thinned with nitrate. Some guys over on the Supercub site said to just put a patch over it and build up the patch. Not sure about that process either though. Super seam or dope, overlap or not....
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  21. akflyer added a post in a topic Setting wings to fuselage (a.k.a. calculating wing sweep)   

    What engine are you putting on?  I have seen quite a few posts of guys sweeping the wings forward on Avids and various kitfoxes when they went to heavier engines such as the VW, 912 etc, so they did not have to put so much weight in the tail.


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  22. 84KF added a post in a topic My covering again.....   

    What were you using for "thinned silver"?  Nitrate or Buyterate with silver (aluminum powder) added?  Randofill? Stitts Polyspray?

    Dopes are like working with lacquers and enamels....(example)... you can put enamel over lacquer, but lacquer over enamal will lift and bubble the undercoat.

    You can use buyterate over nitrate, no nitrate over buyterate.
    The fabric cement "Superseam" is made with nitrate dope... it will lift a buyterate finish and will attack cured Poly-Tone.

    Seems like ya need to find the proper top coat (silver) that won't "kick" when it hits the undercoat.
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  23. C5Engineer added a post in a topic My covering again.....   

    UPDATE... Okay that experiment went horribly wrong. There was no sanding that crap out. I hit it again with MEK which took off all the silver I put on along with the peeled paint. I now have bigger spots than what I started with that are all the way down the fabric. There are no coatings on there at all. There are about 6 spots on one side of the elevator like this. They are also on the top. This fabric is only like 2 years old so I know it's good. So what's next??






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  24. C5Engineer added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    Tired of all the negative on my plane so here's some positive
    I took a few other shots of my plane while out at the hangar today. It's not a total pile of crap so thought I'd share a few shots of the parts that don't need work 

    My new wings and scallop paint job









    Dean Wilson did my engine intall. Can you guys look this over and see if you see any huge red flags that need attention? I've only ever seen a couple other people's installs. I got this FWF from John Miller over on the Yahoo group when we upgraded to his Jab.







    Finally does anybody else have door handles like this?





    These things work way better than the others I've seen.

    Flame away!....
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  25. C5Engineer added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    My covering again.....
    I took a video to show you guys what I'm working with today. I brought my elevator home and cleaned up the spots with some MEK. I'm using a small brush to paint on some thinned silver. The first layer went on great. I wet sanded it and thought it just might work. The 2nd layer however caused the paint that was already there to start peeling. I was able to somewhat sand it out but I am not sure if this is going to work or not. Anybody out there care to school me on fabric work? I don't know what the paint is on the elevator. It was recovered by a friend of my Dad a few years ago. It takes some serious elbow grease with MEK to get it do much so I'm thinking it's a Thane based paint not dope. Onto the video and pics.

    Youtube video of the overall condition



    This is after the second and third layers and one wet sand. I think I made a bigger mess than what I had to start with. My plan was to keep putting on layers of silver and sanding it down till it was built back up enough to spray some paint on it.




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