Activity Stream
Activity Stream
-
akflyer added a post in a topic Joannes High EGT's
So what to you think Joey, am I outa my mind on this one I was sitting in the garage this AM and thinking about this and a little light bulb went off in my head... A few quick turns of the wrench walla.. kills the main theory over there in my mind
-
0
-
-
C5Engineer added a post in a topic Joannes High EGT's
I've been following that issue over there. They could have torn the engine back down several times in all the time they have spent coming up with theories. If they keep running it with an air leak the problem will be easy to find when it seizes.
-
0
-
-
akflyer added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar
Joannes High EGT'sBelow is a cut n paste of what I put on the yahoo groups, but here I can post the pics (nice thing about the forum based systems....
Joanne,
On the plug test, we will warm it up with old plugs, shut down, change to new plugs, start and go wide open for 20-30 seconds and kill it with no idle down.
This will show the top end only burn which is what you are interested in right now.
I think you have a B box correct? I just pulled one apart 2 minutes ago just to double check myself (and I am a sucker for ladies in distress) and that front
seal is bathed in gear oil correct? The seal is right behind the pinion gear, and it is lubed with gear oil, therefore, the front seal would be in gear oil if
I am not way out in left field chasing alligators ( i'm not cause I just checked it). If the front seal was leaking, you would be sucking gear oil into it. To
get air around that front seal, it has to pull through the gear box, and the oil that is bathing the gear... damn near impossible.
Has gear oil level gone down? Can you pull the vent on top of the gear box and put a slight amount of air pressure to it and see if it holds? I am not
sure that vegas would be giving odds on sucking enough air through the front seal and gear oil to give you a high reading, unless it was a catastrophic
failure, in which case you would be burning gear oil and would darn sure know that smell and the cute little blue cloud of mosquito killer coming out the
exhaust.
Lets think about the WD 40 trick lock wood had you do. Remember when your gear box was leaking due to the pinched oring? That is what seals off the gear box
and front seal chamber from the block.
Do you know how to get WD 40 from the little hole in the side of the gear box that you shot it into, to the front seal to see if it is leaking... It is the
same way you put an elephant into a shopping cart. You take the S out of safe and the F out of way.... your right there is no F in way, unless the rubber
oring was leaking also and you would know that by gear oil running down the engine again and blowing out the two tell tale holes in the side..
When the case was split were the two mating surfaces cleaned, then was a sealant applied to them correctly before re-assembly?
I am leaning more towards the carb boot leaking, a cracked primer line (if you use a primer) or a leak between the crank halves, or oring on the crank on the
bearings (which you cant change without splitting the crank)or something plugging off the main jet and high speed circuit. Fire it up, then squirt WD 40
all around the mating surfaces between the two case halves and see if it picks up any RPM or it may even choke it down if the leak is bad enough.
You can pull the gear box in about 5 minutes after you drain the oil and get direct access to the front seal.
I will post up pics on my avidfoxflyers site in a just a few to point out what I am saying about the front seal and trouble I am having thinking that it could
actually be the culprit.
Leni
Front seal and the oring that seals off the chamber you shot WD 40 into..
Another shot of the same
the groove that the oring seats into showing the elephant into the shopping cart thing....
One more shot just for good measure.
- 15 replies
- 1,637 views
-
akflyer added a post in a topic Engine Swap
That reading is alot closer than the others I have seen. Mine was about 1500 RPM off on the top end, but bottom end it was pretty damn close.
Cool, it is a bit boring sitting on the ground for an hour with a stop watch and clip board, timing and writing numbers.
-
0
-
-
C5Engineer added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar
No flying todayMan every day except one that I had my plane home would have been awesome flying weather. Yesterday I got my airplane back out to the hangar and all ready for a test flight and work up to my windows rattling. Check out this METAR
KSUU 281455Z AUTO 36032G42KT 350V050 10SM CLR 12/M06 A2991 RMK AO2 PK WND 34042/1447
The last time I called the AWOS about 20 minutes ago the peak gust was 47knots. I know for you AK guys this is lame but for us this is really bizarre weather. It was not forecasted at all. Here's a short vid I shot from my back patio.
- 0 replies
- 509 views
-
akflyer added a post in a topic Plastic Tanks
SWEEEEEET. Good feeling to have the bugger back in the air and ready to go huh! Getting ready to head for the hangar and get my ski's put on Wagonmasters Mk IV so we can fly out to a buddies cabin for a few days. Should be a good time hanging out, chasing 4 legged critters, and just fun flying in general!
-
0
-
-
C5Engineer added a post in a topic Engine Swap
No the guy I bought it from broke it in on the bench for me. It should be ready to run. Hey Bandit was that your plane in the new Avid calendar??
-
0
-
-
Bandit added a post in a topic Plastic Tanks
The weather finally broke. Flew tonight. Everything looked good, no leaks yet.
-
0
-
-
Bandit added a post in a topic Engine Swap
Do you have to do the hour breakin for the engine ?
-
0
-
-
C5Engineer added a post in a topic Engine Swap
Got my bird back out out the hangar and the engine started. It seems to run much smoother and quieter than my old one. The blue head comes up to temp much faster with the bypass hose upgrade. I was at 140 degrees in 4 minutes it used to take twice that to warm up. I didn't run it to power as I just had it sitting in the hangar because of bad weather. So far I was right my old needle tach reads about 500 rpm higher than the tiny tach was reading. Glad I installed it. Going to do some full power runs tomorrow to make sure you prop pitch is still good and there are no leaks and then go fly it.
-
0
-
-
akflyer added a post in a topic my mod C
I had some epoxy primer left over from painting all the steel parts inside the wing so I slapped it on all the new wood.
Replacing the rib tails was pretty easy! Just use a heat gun to soften up the glue, and a putty knife to separate the cap strip from the rib. The first wing I did, I used the measurements out of the book and they did not line up perfectly with the flaperon when I went to hand it. The second wing, I clamped the flaperon onto the tails, then using a 12' aluminum "I" beam, I lined the cap strips up, then glued them all up at once. The second wing came out perfect.
Do you need to replace the cap strips or just the tails?
You can also use a good spar varnish on all the new wood to seal it up.
-
0
-
-
skysailor added a post in a topic my mod C
I have just started the process of recovering my Avid C HH and am looking at your photos of the wing prep. Can you tell me what the gray substance (Paint/epoxy/??) is on the rib caps and the sides of the ribs with the flaperon hangers? I pulled the old covering off and the rib caps on mine are not treated with anything except glue. I do plan to rib stitch which was not done on the original covering. Also I have had to replace two of the flaperon hanger ribs with new one and wonder what I need to do to them prior to covering. Appreciate your advice, Cheers, Mike
-
0
-
-
akflyer added a post in a topic Happy Turkey Day
-
C5Engineer added a topic in Hangar Talk
Happy Turkey DayHappy Thanksgiving to everyone!! I have plenty to be thankful for... We have our beautiful little girl just born 7 weeks ago, we purchased our first home this year, and I got my Avid going!
- 1 reply
- 821 views
-
C5Engineer added a post in a topic Engine Swap
The swap is complete! Fluids are topped off.. I even filled the header tank and connected the battery. She is ready to fire but I ran out of time today to fire it up. Probably take it out to the airport on Friday. I finally got my shipment from Warp Drive today. I replaced all my prop mounting hardware along with the clamping blocks. I also sandblasted the aluminum spacers and blinged them up with some steel wool. They were peeling black nasty paint before.
The completed project
-
0
-
-
C5Engineer added a post in a topic Engine Swap
Never got it fired today I got busy. Did get the radiator filled and burped and though. I'm waiting on some parts from warpdrive before I bolt my prop back on. The bolts were pretty nasty that held the prop onto the hub and my clamping blocks looked pretty weathered so I'm replacing those and all the hardware. Pretty good insurance for $50 worth of parts. Cost me $97 to ship my old engine from Norcal to Naples Florida today...not too shabby. Hoping to get it back out to the airport tomorrow. I need my garage back!
-
0
-
-
DIVE4IT added a post in a topic Fly-thru airplane wash
Glad I could make you fella's laugh.
JT
-
0
-
-
akflyer added a post in a topic Avid Catalina
what the hell, am I gonna have to come over tomorrow and junk punch ya to get you going on the Catalina again you better hurry up on that thing or your wings are gong to disappear from your garage and find there way onto my plane
-
0
-
-
Av8r3400 added a post in a topic Engine Swap
The soldered wire idea is really a great one.
I was going to suggest at least scuffing the mating surfaces of the copper really well to let the hose have something rough to grip on...
-
0
-
-
akflyer added a post in a topic Engine Swap
Well Duuuhhhhhh... I thought you had already shipped the GH back. The original setup does look better, but the other would have worked with no worries! When I swapped over the belly radiator, I had to do some creative copper work to get it all hooked up.
If all goes as planned, I will be picking up the new sled tomorrow and starting my little engine swap project.
-
0
-
-
C5Engineer added a post in a topic Today's Dumbass Stunt
I read about that one in the logs you sent me...sounded sporty. Welcome to the forum Jim (original builder of N279AF) Glad to have some of your knowledge here.
-
0
-
-
C5Engineer added a post in a topic Engine Swap
Well I feel like an idiot. I had told the engine builder about this dilemma this morning and he replied this evening by email telling me to swap out the fittings because they are exactly the same. Doh! 20 minutes later I had them swapped, problem solved. Good thing I spent half a day running around town and $15 on parts! Thank you for the replies. I'm sure it would have worked but feel much more comfortable with the original setup.
-
0
-
-
akflyer added a post in a topic Engine Swap
That is how mine and a couple others here are plumbed. No issues with leaks etc.
-
0
-
-
horsepower added a post in a topic Engine Swap
I think the copper will work fine. The guy that I bought my 582 from used copper on for all the fittings.He used 3/4 elbows as you did then he soldered a wire on each end to keep hose from slipping off.In other words he wrapped wire all the way around so it form a lip for the clamp.I have seen this on Kitfox websites before so it must be ok.Kitfox used to make the radiator filler with copper and they didnt use an expansion tank and it worked real well.Randy
-
0
-
-
C5Engineer added a post in a topic Engine Swap
Well I think I came up with a solution for the elbow in my cooling system. I called 20 places today trying to find a 1" 90 degree elbow with pipe fittings on the ends. No one had anything like that. I finally ended up at Home Depot. This fitting is actually a 3/4" copper elbow fitting with flared ends so the OD is pretty dang close to 1". The pipe fit snut but not as tight as it would have if it was a correct pipe fitting. I tighened the crap out of a couple hose clamps on it. I haven't filled the radiator yet because I didn't have any distilled water. Can anyone forsee any issues with this set up that I should address before I button up this project. If it doesn't leak I think it should work fine. Lots of cars use copper fittings for stuff. Thoughts...I'm open to any and all suggestions.
-
0
-