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horsepower added a post in a topic 2 Stroke Oil
Thanks Leni,It is my understanding that Nissan oil and Yamalube are the same thing so I will give it a whirl.Randy
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akflyer added a post in a topic 2 Stroke Oil
I have never run the nissan oil, but we run the Citgo Sea n Ski oil in our snowmachines and planes. It is Yamalube with a different wrapper on it. We have been running it for years and 100s of thousands of miles in various snow machines. Never has an oil related issue with any of the sleds or planes so far.
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horsepower added a topic in Rotax and other engines
2 Stroke OilIm not there yet but getting closer to mounting my 582 on the Skyraider.Was wondering what you guys run for oil, mine is oil injected if that makes a difference.I sell outboard motors and was wondering if you can run Nissan outboard oil.It is 50 percent mineral base and 50 percent synthetic made for direct fuel injection.I was told that you shouldnt run outboard oil but thought I would ask the hard core 2 strokers.Thanks Randy
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saskavid added a post in a topic Pic request
Regarding the matco link above, the most revealing yet sorta hidden,and not readily known thing I can show to yaall about pedal ratio appears in diagram 3, the illustration on the right side, there is some writing that says PERP DIST TO MC CENTERLINE. Which unabrevated reads perpindicular distance to master cylinder center line, basically means the shortest distance from the pivot point formed between the brake pedal and rudder pedal to a line running directly down the center of the brake cylinder.So with a mc-4 type brake cylinder bolted to the stock avid rudder bar attachment point, you can make that distance .5 of an inch.(the cylinder shaft is 3/8 dia and the rudder bar is 5/8 so half of each added together is 1/2 in)Divide that number into the pedal height of 2.65 and the resulting start pedal ratio is 5.3 to 1.With activation, the shorter the mc-4 cylinder you use the closer it stays to the pivot point, and the more leverage you maintain. The 6.5 inch length is the off the shelf optimum. 6.0 is possible but then the clevis hits the back of the rudder bar first and start leverage cuts back to 4.7 to 1, with activation ends up being a pedal ratio only .08 higher than the 6.5 delivers.(basically an undetectable amount)
Mike
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jackak added a post in a topic Need some verification
Joey,
There should be a large area washer outboard of the three rod ends that are not inside a bracket. The two on the upper end of the flap links and the upper end of the one that attaches to the mixer and the aileron bellcrank. They're placed there to keep the rod end from coming off if the bearing fails. It's hard to see this in the construction manual, they all look like large area washers. Looking at that same manual it looks like there are several places on the mixer where self locking nuts are used, but I'd go for safety, not convienence. Another picky thing if I might, I'd bend the ends of the cotter keys tight against the nuts. I don't know how many times I cut myself when I didn't and went back in to work in an area with as many castillated nuts as the mixer has. Former engine and prop mech on C-123s, C-54s and T-29s.
Jack
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racegunz added a post in a topic How to tell if it's a MKIV
Well I'm waiting for the man with the avid to send me some more pics to see if its worth the drive to go and see, also been looking at a kitfox 4 kit but he wants too much (in my humble opinion) if I decide on the kit fox I'll give you a shout. I don't know if it would work on the avid or not??
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C5Engineer added a post in a topic Need some verification
My stick does move a little bit.. I was wondering what was causing that. What works to lube the flaperon hinges?
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akflyer added a post in a topic Need some verification
have you disconnected the flaperons just inside the fuse at the top of the control rod and checked that each flaperon takes the same force to move up and down? if one is a little sticky, I can see it not moving as much as the other and giving you a bit of an asymetrical roll input when you pull the flaps on. Mine had a sticky flaperon and when I pulled the flaps on, the control stick would go full left if I was not hanging onto it. if this is playing into your rolling issues or not.
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C5Engineer added a post in a topic Need some verification
Leni I have my flaperons set up so that mine flies hands off with the flaps full up and about 57-5800 rpm. I can only trim nose down. If I'm flying down low I pull on some flap to relieve the roll forces and just hold back pressure. The issue I'm having is when I pull on a couple of degrees I get a fairly strong rolling moment to the right and I can't figure out why. It also takes WAY more rudder to coordinate a turn to the right. It almost takes top pedal to keep the ball centered when I turn to the left. I knew it would be different but it seemed a little excessive to me.
There's only two nylocks on the mixer box. The one where the flaperon linkage connects to the mixer box should be a castle not sure now I missed that. The one where the rod ends are I left a nylock because up until recently I was playing with my flaperon settings a lot and got tired of pulling a pin in and out. There's very little movement there unless your pulling flaps on and off all the time which I don't.
The only reason I can see why I'm getting a roll is one flap is coming on more than the other. I need to get out my control surface throw and try different flap settings and see exactly what they are doing and why. Looking at the linkage everything appears to be working perfectly symmetrical.
Jack can you circle on one of those pictures where I should have the big washers? I set it back up the exact way it was when I got the airplane but that does not mean it's right by any means. Also no I wasn't still working on it I took these pics right before I flew yesterday. I've put 48 hours on it like this but if it's wrong I'd like to fix it. The builders manual sucks for stuff like this and I'm still learning.
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akflyer added a post in a topic How to tell if it's a MKIV
I dont think it would work for me. I am not sure if the firewall pattern is the same or not. I would probably be better off just starting from scratch as the new engine has exhaust and intake on the same side etc... But thanks for the offer!
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horsepower added a post in a topic How to tell if it's a MKIV
I was going to sell it at first but if someone really needs it you pay the freight and its yours.It came with my 582 when I bought it and it wont work on my Skyraider.If Leni doesnt want it for his engine build then let me know and its yours.Randy
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racegunz added a post in a topic How to tell if it's a MKIV
If he doesn't want it I might, what would you want for it?
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akflyer added a post in a topic Pic request
Hey Mike
Thanks for the info, and yes, your right, I did have my grubby little dick skinners on Jacks pedals.... hmm... that almost sounds real bad don't it. I meant his brake pedals that you built
If I go back on wheels I will get a set from you. Looks like I could save you some time if I send in my old ones and have you modify them At any rate, I am deffinately into more braking power as mine just suck for what I want to do!
Yeah, and if we get to bickering (sometimes alot of fun) we can call a jackass a jackass It is a hell ov a lot easier to find info on this type of forum versus the yahoo groups style.. but it is hard to convince guys that have been "loyal" to the group to change.
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horsepower added a post in a topic Testing my new camera set up
Joey Thats great,Can hear the sound real good and nice landing to boot.I mounted a camera in my dragster once and I used a Roberts pole holder mount that we sell here at our boat shop. It clamped on the roll bar and then I made a adapter to hook to a VCR camera.I was pretty proud the way it turned out but first time I went to use it the NHRA tech guy made me take it off,he said it was not approved, NHRA tech guys suck...so dont know how it would have worked.Anyhow yours works pretty good. Randy
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akflyer added a post in a topic Need some verification
X2 on what jack said. Amy bolt subject to rotation should have a cotter key in it. My A&P was ADAMANT about this.
What type of trim issues are you having? I have found, that when I try to trim it out with the flaperons (more nose up trim) I scrub off about 5 MPH and the roll control is alot heavier. I play with the flaps to get the roll control feeling the lightest, then up trim on the elevator to maintain altitude. At my present CG, I am using full up trim to hold altitude at 5500 RPM and about 70 MPH on the ground (85 indicated). When I load heavy in the baggage area I can go to pretty much neutral on the elevator trim.
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jackak added a post in a topic Need some verification
Joey,
The F7A's look like they are installed correctly. Were you working on the mixer at this point? I noticed that the large area washers normally installed outboard of the Heim joints seem to be missing. Avid's mix of castellated and self-locking nuts is curious too. Anywhere there is movement at a bolt I'd use castellated nuts, too easy for the fiber in the self-lockers to wear out and I don't think you adjust the links that frequently. My 2 cents.
Jack
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popslick added a post in a topic Avid Catalina
Looks good Bob, I knew you would be working in silence!
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Av8r3400 added a post in a topic Adventures of the Gnome
AAARRRGHHH! He's following you!!!
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Av8r3400 added a post in a topic Adventures of the Gnome
AAARRRGHHH! He's following you!!!
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C5Engineer added a topic in Avid fox flyers pics and vids
Adventures of the GnomeWell since I have the Gnome I figured I would just roll with it.. took him flying today.
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C5Engineer added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar
Need some verificationI'm still chasing down some trim issues and want to verify with someone that I have my F7A bellcranks installed properly. I've flown it this way 48 hours so I hope so but just trying to eliminate any variables.
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C5Engineer added a topic in Avid fox flyers pics and vids
Testing my new camera set upI pieced together some of my RAM parts and used a suction cup mount on my passenger side door. It vibrated a bit more than I thought it would but at least I have a starting point and a way to mount my digi cam now. I have a ubolt style mount too but it will only fit on a 1" tube. I'm going to work on mounting it on the rear cross member someplace and try that. Until then here's a short vid I shot on a .7 hour flight after work today.
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C5Engineer added a post in a topic Pic request
Mike thank you for the info and welcome to the forum. Lots less bickering over here than on the Yahoo listing.
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saskavid added a post in a topic Pic request
Leni:
You're the one who recommended Joey look into the pedals I designed.I'm thinking you must have have handled the ones I did for Jack King.the whole Idea behind the design was to create something effective and quick to get reinstalled on already up and running planes.Numbers wise the setup has 5.3 leverage ratio in static position and with activation around 3.5.I did a rudder bar/brake pedal mockup on a bench hooked to a pressure gauge and can wrap a 600 psi gauge using single thumb pressure on the top of the pedal.(the Matco troubleshooting page puts 600 psi as a more or less top end base line for there systems)I did bench test the stock avid /mc5 setup and you are hard pressed to make 250 psi with that last 50 creeping into the picture about 5 seconds after you wanted to have the airplane stopped I've taken some flak over my pedal ratio claims in the past.larry martin was first to use the mc4 type ram to improve leverage, he went with an mc4 extended to attach right at the top of the pedal, ending up with just under 2.5 pedal ratio under activation. I followed his lead and went with the 6.5 ram trying to target a little more leverage (3.5)then made the necessary structural revisions to the pedals when I realised they were keeping the system from spooling up the nessicary line pressure.(pencils out to a 33% line psi improvement)
larry also had people tell him he was "out to lunch" so to speak in his pedal ratio numbers...What I want to clarify here and now is that the methodology both larry and I used in our calculations , at it's origin , came directly from George Happ the president and r+d head of matco mfg...sooo I think the leverage values I'm quoting are in pretty good standing.
The 2 piece pedals are a bargain but they aren't cheap so to speak. I'm guessing I had 200 hrs of brain sweat into the design before they ever became an in hand working product.The best stick welder I know told me I couldn't build this 2 piece pedal design because the machining tolerances were too tight and the welding would seize everything in a lump...end result proved him wrong. What I'm charging ends up being an hourly rate less than $20, so it is a bargain but the work is a real time eater.
Mike
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akflyer added a post in a topic Pic request
cool! if he has a good price on them, I will save myself the trouble and just get them from him!
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