Activity Stream

Activity Stream



  1. EDMO added a post in a topic Hysol 9460 source   

    Only place I have bought it is Kitfox at about $100 a pop. Contact Loctite and if there is a dealer in your area that can order it, you might get it cheaper with no shipping. I would have gone that way, but needed it asap. Careful tho, there are other 94 products like 9430 that are not the same. I have the Loctite catalog, but you still have to go thru a dealer.
    Dont buy your flox or microballoons from Kitfox - You only get a tiny bag - cheaper from Spruce or others.
    ED in MO
    • 0


  2. C150L added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    Hysol 9460 source
    Time to build some wings!

    I'm shopping for a bit of a deal on the Hysol 9460 structural adhesive.

    Has any one ever used the following online vendor?
    http://www.skygeek.com/henkel-hysol-9460-5-lb-kit-83131.html
    http://www.skygeek.com/aboutus.html

    Know of any other sources for this product?

    Thanks,
    Dale
    • 10 replies
    • 2,902 views


  3. akflyer added a post in a topic overheating... again   

    The radiator cap thought is a good one! And could very well be the issue! I dont seem to have antifreeze coming out the exhaust. No steam, no sweet taste etc (yes, I did stick my finger in the tail pipe and lick it). Damn, that just sounds really wrong!!!! I will grab another cap and a test cap and a bicycle pump before I head out there and will know in just a few minutes if it is the cap, or head gasket / cracked cylinder.




    • 0


  4. akflyer added a post in a topic GOOD SETUP FOR MC-4 TABS?   

    One thing I would caution on moving the lower tabs to C channel on the floor boards. My brothers Pacer convertion did this and they SUCK! When the bottom of the cylinder dont move with the pedal they tend to kick the top of the brake pedal forward when you depress the opposite rudder. IE, if you push right rudder, the left brake pedal will pivot forwards making you push on the left brake unless you keep your toes off the brake pedal portion. His plane was put on its back TWICE by previous owners who accidentally got onto the brakes when trying to make a rudder correction on the ground.


    • 0


  5. EDMO added a post in a topic fuel shutoffs   

    I would sure like to know the make and model of your pumps, and if there is any problem with them. That one-way check valve should work great. My auto parts store has a small square pump for about $45 each, but havent done research on it yet.
    My Holly carb requires 2 - 6 lbs of pressure.
    Believe Dave Goode's Airdale with the Stratus had Ford 6 cyl pickup dual pumps on it from the 70s or 80s. I have heard that the one Facet pump has to be rebuilt if it sets too long. Dave Johnson stated that his would not work after setting idle all winter. Of course, winter is my best flying down here.

    I have seen that teeny-tiny hole in the back of Piper cap tubes - Now, really, is a drop of rain going to pass out of that instead of into the tank? I doubt it - but better safe than sorry, IMO.
    Thanks,
    ED in MO
    • 0


  6. EDMO added a post in a topic GOOD SETUP FOR MC-4 TABS?   

    I believe I read the part about the leverage ratios for the different master cylinders on the MATCO website. Check it out.
    ED in MO
    • 0


  7. SuberAvid added a post in a topic fuel shutoffs   

    Ed, I have always intended to try running it without the fuel pump on (I put 2 electric fuel pumps in mine but only run one at a time) but have not done so yet. I think I will try it on the ground though so would not have the benefit of the ram air. Stratus manual says you need around 4 pounds but only way to know for sure is to test it. It would be good to know. The pumps I used are the small square automotive fuel pumps (cant remember the name or model at the moment) but when I researched them the have a small built in check valve and will flow fuel one way even if they are not on.

    My vent tubes are about 3" high; I drilled a small hole in the trailing side of the vent tube just at the bottom of the curve as I have seen done on most cubs to let rain that enters the tube out the back supposedly before it goes into the tank. I have to have less than 5 gal. in my tanks to fold the wings and not have gas come out the vents so I just siphon it out as I fold the wing and get it as empty as I can.
    • 0


  8. EDMO added a post in a topic fuel shutoffs   

    I think on some caps that have the vent tube, you are supposed to seal the internal vent with epoxy to prevent leaks and build more ram pressure.
    The reason I was asking was because I need a fuel pump to give me 2 to 5 lbs of pressure - and must have another auxilliary pump too - some pumps will let fuel flow if they are not on, and others wont - the plumbing and check valves required to insure gravity flow from each type is a lot different. And, wanted to know if gravity flow would be enough to keep fan turning. Will install a pressure guage in mine, so I should know when the time comes. FAA says gravity flow = 150% of fuel consumption at full power, and fuel pumps = 125%.
    I know that KF says not to fold the wings with more 1/2 full. Looks like the weight of folding with full tanks might be a problem too. Probably cant afford that much gas anyway!
    Thanks,
    ED in MO
    • 0


  9. SuberAvid added a post in a topic overheating... again   


    Sounds good, I will try to check it regularly as much as the weather will permit. Send me the info on a message on this forum since my home email is not working at teh moment. I am going deer hunting in MT from 30 Oct - 17 Nov but doubt we will get enough snow by then. After that, let me know if you need a ride or just want another set of hands; even if it is just to take pictures for Doug
    • 0


  10. C5Engineer added a post in a topic fuel shutoffs   

    There was an AD posted years ago to make the vents that tall so that when the wings were folded fuel wouldn't run out. This was of course if you had perfectly sealed caps. If I fill my plane to the brim I always have a streak down the wing when I land so I assume my caps leak. The Kitfox vents are only like 2" tall. If I pull the line off my mechanical fuel pump with my plane sitting on the ground it'll shoot fuel 3ft out the line. I have the stock wing spar header tank behind the passenger seat.
    • 0


  11. C5Engineer added a post in a topic Ontario Airfare   

    I've been into that airport several times. I have a buddy that lives across the river in Fruitland.
    • 0


  12. EDMO added a post in a topic GOOD SETUP FOR MC-4 TABS?   

    Arent you using the MC-4 cylinders like Joey? If his setup works good with those huge tires, then I will copy it.
    ED in MO
    • 0


  13. EDMO added a post in a topic GOOD SETUP FOR MC-4 TABS?   

    Doug, your photo shows what I was talking about with the kitfox dual tubes - If you moved to the middle right side, there would not be room to put that lower tab forward - it would hit the other tube. Looks like also, the tubes would need to be raised up to keep that forward tab from hitting the floorboards. Think my KF2 had a hole in the floorboard there which I didnt like.
    Your KF3, like my KF2, probably had the MC-1 cylinders with the smaller bore, which cant be used with dual brakes.
    ED in MO
    • 0


  14. dholly added a post in a topic Ontario Airfare   

    Small show maybe, but some mighty fine machines showed up!
    • 0


  15. EDMO added a post in a topic GOOD SETUP FOR MC-4 TABS?   

    Another technical consideration is the amount of leverage: Matco says that the ratio of leverage needed is different on the 1/2 inch bore MC-1, cylinders compared to the 5/8 bore of the MC-4 & 5 cylinders. I have read this difference, but cant quote it.
    But, all else failing, you can buy the sleeve kit for the later ones to go to 1/2 inch bore and increase braking.
    ED in MO
    • 0


  16. dholly added a post in a topic GOOD SETUP FOR MC-4 TABS?   

    That is correct. The original brake pedal geometry sucks but there are a couple of ways it can be improved upon short of the [effective but expensive] mod Joey showed. In an old Avid Family Flyer newsletter, one simple (and no cost) suggestion was to move the clevis hole in the existing top mounting tab in to ~1" from the pedal, making sure you take care to maintain clearance between the brake cylinder reservoir and pedal cross tube. The lower attach point is unchanged but this improves the geometry slightly and many said it was all they needed to gain reasonably effective braking. Second is to fabricate mounting blocks out of aluminum 'C-channel' that position the lower brake cylinder attach point directly on the floorboard forward of the brake pedal torque tube. This is similar to my KF4-1200 setup but not sure you have sufficient room in an Avid. Last, my KF-3 brakes were stronger than all of them, more than enough to worry about flipping it on it's back! The KF-3 lower attach tabs are welded on the brake torque tube and angled way more forward than Avid for better geometry. If you need to weld tabs on, I strongly recommend this simple change. Pic attached is my KF-3 so you can see the tab angle.

    • 0


  17. EDMO added a post in a topic fuel shutoffs   

    Randy, or anyone,
    Do you think the vent tubes are really necessary when you are using a fuel pump. I thought vent tubes were only for using ram air to help pressurize a gravity system. Of course, the caps would still need to be vented. Will your Soob still turn the fan if the fuel pump fails and you only have a gravity system? Or, have you tried that?
    ED in MO
    P.S. I noticed that Joey's photo shows some real tall vent tubes. How tall do they need to be?
    A check valve on each tank line would prevent transfer - but also one more spot for fuel stoppage?
    I will have a check valve on each vent line between my main wing tanks and the outer wing tanks, to prevent fuel transfer thru the vent tube, and also a shut-off valve on the outlet line between the tanks.
    • 0


  18. EDMO added a post in a topic GOOD SETUP FOR MC-4 TABS?   

    I hope so Joey - all I can do is copy what works - and give a "guesstimate" on what might not work as well. Not really worried about the pedals, as the tabs can be put where they need to be on any pedal.
    ED in MO
    • 0


  19. C5Engineer added a post in a topic GOOD SETUP FOR MC-4 TABS?   

    Ed my brake pedals are custom made by a guy in Canada. He's a member on here. Hopefully he will chime in. The key is all in then geometry and getting the right working pressure down to the brakes.
    • 0


  20. EDMO added a post in a topic GOOD SETUP FOR MC-4 TABS?   

    Someone more familiar with Avid pedal tubes will have to answer this one.
    My Kitfox has 2 tubes mounted real close to each other, so I have to be very careful to weld the lower tabs so they dont hit the forward tube when applying rudder. I could put a vertical inverted L-tab if needed to move pivot point forward and clear other tube.
    But considering that - if you move the pivot forward, and apply rudder, it moves the pivot forward and down - wouldnt you have to pivot the pedal more to get the same braking?.......think about that.
    ED in MO
    • 0


  21. EDMO added a post in a topic overheating... again   

    To me, the most terrifying part of this saga is the helicopter flight!!!
    Helicopters cant fly - They are just so dang ugly and noisy and vibrate so much the earth repels them!
    Hope I never have to get into another one.......
    ED in MO
    • 0


  22. High Country added a post in a topic GOOD SETUP FOR MC-4 TABS?   

    I still need to weld the tabs onto my tubes for the lower mounts as well. I'm just curious I seem to recall reading that if these tabs are pointed a bit more forward rather than straight up it will give better ergonomics and better brake pressure is this correct or should we just weld them on straight up?

    -Robert-
    • 0


  23. dholly added a post in a topic overheating... again   

    Wow, you all sure know how to party! My gal would be headed for the exits after that.
    In all seriousness, you got a whole lot of timber up there and I'm sure glad you didn't have to put down in the trees somewhere.
    I'm sure whatever time your plane has to sit there will be twisting your gut so I hope your fix and flight out goes smoothly.
    Fingers crossed x2 for Randy's radiator cap comment, here's hoping it's that easy!

    On a lighter note, I heard a real Yukon Man can swap out an engine in 1 hour flat with only a Leatherman and tube of Chapstick. If your phone doesn't freeze up, take a few pics of the wilderness wrenching session for your friends here. Helicopter rescues are pretty crazy stuff for us in the lower states and we be pulling for ya!
    • 0


  24. EDMO added a post in a topic ? for Dholly   

    Seems to me that all of this is sort-of "unknown territory" until someone breaks a wing in flight. HOPE THAT NEVER HAPPENS!
    When I was a young pilot, a friend was flying a home-built (no kits back then) and a weld broke and wing folded and it killed him.
    This made me afraid of homebuilts and I would not even consider flying one until 30 years later when the aluminum tube wing spars and apparently safer crossover tube construction and wing attach fittings were made available by Dean Wilson on the Avid.
    Yes, I know that others had tube wing spars, but I didnt see any published reports or tests on them until the Avid.
    ED in MO
    • 0


  25. EDMO added a post in a topic SEARCH STILL ON FOR LED WING POSITION LITE BULBS   

    Thanks. Believe I have seen similiar bulbs on ebay for lots less money - but probably not strobes too -
    NOW WHY would you want a strobe inside your red/green position lights - strobes are supposed to be seperate, I think? And probably not approved that way by the Feurer of American Aviation.....
    ED in MO
    • 0