New owner and newbie trailering hints

[tx_swordguy 20]

I recently bought an avid flyer in really good shape. Started as a late B model that was upgraded structurally to meet  C model heavy hauler standards. 1150 lb gross with rotax 582. It is in fantastic shape and has been flown a lot over the years with 1200 hours and its on its 3rd engine. I trailered it back from Wisconsin to Texas on an open boat trailer that worked very well with just a couple of complaints. Not knowing how it would move /vibrate that long distance I had a couple of rub areas so I wanted to pass along some tips for new owners like me that might not know what to look for in packaging the plane. This plane spent most all its life with the wings extended so the 2 owners prior to me ( I am the third) never ran into issues. With the wings folded and the rudder and elevators secured there was still some movement that I was unaware of happening despite all my research. even with a small piece of foam rubber the owner put between the flaperon and tail I got a couple of rub places that I did not notice pulling until I had gone a couple of hours. I ended up with a 1" rub on the front of the vertical stab that need a patch. My suggestion would be to get a long piece of 2" foam rubber maybe  18"x4' on each side of the tail so the tail is sandwiched between each flaperon and the foam takes any vibration. I got some additional foam at walmart and it really solidified the wings movement the rest of the trip (everything moved more as one piece rather than each piece moving individually. Also the builder fabricated air foils on everything which is great except when folded the air foil on the strut close to the bottom pivot is up against the plane and rubbed a bit. When it was folded it looked and felt really solid, but there is a lot of little movement going on that over the course of 1000 miles did just a little bit of damage. Nothing that can't be fixed and now I know better. I think I will cut off the bottom part of the strut air foil so I can trailer it. I thought about extending the wing tie down rod so the wing will actually stick out another 6" each side to miss the side of the plane. That is the easiest fix. Just don't know yet. I have 1000' field I plan on using but will have to trailer it 10 miles to the airport so I can get familiar with it prior to trying my field for the first time. I can do that trip at 30-40 mph so not really worried about it. If I extend the rods there will be gap in the flaperons/tail of about 6-10" that will need to taken into account with some sort of packaging. Anyway thought I would share. Thanks to Joey for answering questions about the earlier avids . I thought I was pretty well prepped for the ride home and had my truck loaded with tools, tarps, 2 spare tires and everything else I could think of I might need.  I didn't realize I needed to foam EVERY possible rub place since it "felt" so solid when it was folded. Hope this might help others.

Edited 12 Sep 2016 by tx_swordguy

[EDMO 1078]

How do you modify a B model to make a C model, and increase GW to 1150?  EDMO

[tx_swordguy 20]

Ok maybe changing model is not the correct term. It is still listed through FAA as a b model. What I intended to mean was that he beefed the plane up in order to meet the 1150 lb gross as well as change the radiator system and cowling out to be more in line with the later models. He put heavy hauler wings and structural components in to meet the additional gross. Forgive my brain fart in what I was trying to convey. To my knowledge you cannot on paper change what the original plane is listed as and I have since edited my original post.

[EDMO 1078]

I was just asking about the structural changes to increase GW - Most of us can imagine the .083wall spars and maybe more ribs making the wings stronger, but at the same time Kitfox continues to use the .065wall spars and original number of ribs to make a 1550 lb GW plane.   I haven't studied the Avids enough to know differences in models and weights.  EDMO

Edited 12 Sep 2016 by EDMO

[tx_swordguy 20]

yes he added more ribs(about every 11" I believe) and the .083 spars, struts were also increased as well as carry through tubes I believe. I know this doesn't make an automatically well built plane, but the builder was an A&P and did seem to make a nice plane. Because  it has so many hours and still is in good shape makes me feel very good about this plane and happy I bought it.  It is also kept very light comes in at around 580 and has bungy gear. I plan on putting a pneumatic matco wheel on as it has the hard maul on it now without the cam plate.

[BryceKat 125]

 That's a good-looking plane! A word of warning, be sure to watch your water taps. I was raised in Texas so I know it's hot down there, a hell of a lot hotter than in Wisconsin!  That looks like a nicely baffled radiator installation, but you still have to watch it, the overheating.  It'll be all right below about 85 to 87° Oat,  but any higher than that temperature, and that cooling system does not perform very well. I speak from experience. And, that just so happens to be the time you really want the plane to perform! Good luck, have fun, that sure is a good-looking bird!

[tx_swordguy 20]

Thanks Bryce I was concerned about that and watched the temp during the test flight. It reached 170 on climb for just a min or so towards the end of the climb to 1000'agl cruise was 150-155 with outside temp about 82. I was thinking I might need to increase the fairing underneath an inch or two in order to increase the suction through the radiator. The exhaust muffler does take up a large portion of the cowling space. I have the all inclusive engine analysis system. It is set to alarm at 190 but I may drop that to 180 to catch my attention earlier.