Anders Stenhammar

My ambient temperatures are around 20C 68F. I think that the dual nose radiators would work fine if they had proper duct to lead the airflow and make use of the ram air pressure drop and consequently cooling effect. I have seen the old single mod C radiator work fine tighter with proper ducting. I will try to block the front radiator of after testing my water temp sensor in boiling water. My Kane was build in Italy and it's hotter there, so I guess the dual system as needed there.

Yes, to primarily save weight but also to get the CG further back. I only get about 60C /140F in water temp. When I cover up the front radiator it doesn't get any hotter, so the water pump is pumping around a lot of unnecessary water. 

How did your Rotax Rick 670 work out for you? I think I will need one also when my 582 has done it's time.

Hi all. My Avid 582 mod C has two radiators under the cowling. One smaller in front of the cylinders and one bigger at right side (extra cowling on the outside). This system is quite heavy and I would like to reduce it. I know about the mod about mounting a new radiator under the belly I front of the landing gear, but this is to big if a mod for now and I also don't want to loose the cabin heat system from the side mounted radiator. 
I was thinking about removing the front radiator, has anyone else done that? Does anyone else even have two radiators? On my T-bird2 I only had one radiator and that was enough. On the other hand, the side mounted radiator isn't that efficient as a front mounted one... I guess I just try to remove the front one and see what happens to the water temp.

I would maybe be interested. How much for them? I am rebuilding a pair of speedwings. Could you contact me on anders.stenhammar84@gmail.com ?

This is the drawings from Norwegian Rolf Nossum webbpage http://rolf.nossum.net/avid/index.html

Full_Lotus_Installation_Manual.pdf

Water rudder Full Lotus.pdf

Flottörställ - N-strut kalkylark.pdf

The gearbox gear lash is also important for nice idle. Also, check the syncronization between the carbs. They need to be the same. Meaure the throttle opening. The prop must also be in ballance.

I have sent an email to the owner now and an invite to this forum. I also think that the incorrect assembled heim joint could be the cause. If it binds during full deflection, it could result in a fatigue break. 

Hello all.

Sorry for not responding. i have been away for christmas. It was not me flying this plane, I only got it sent to me on Yahoo group from a guy that's not so good at computers. 

This is a death trap. Its glued so its impossible to remove and inspect properly. If anyone have any suggestions how to inspect this without cutting and welding, I would very much appreciate it.

Here is some info from him:

To do the mod we bought 2 feet (use 1 foot each side) of 3/4 inch OD .095 wall thickness 4130 steel tube. Because the bellcrank is glued on to the aluminium spar tube it is impossible to remove it without damage so just cut the arm off the end of the steel tube. Cut as far out as possible so that the new one can be welded back on and the weld will be clear of the turtledeck bearing. Drill out all the rivets and clean out all the glue from inside the short steel tube and the aluminium spar tube. Turn down the 1 foot of 4130 steel tube so it will slide up inside the spar tube. The amount you turn off lengthwise will depend on how far the spar tube extends inside the stub of the bellcrank. Make up the new arm as shown in the photos including the short piece of 7/8 OD tube to make the assembly up to the same diameter as the bellcrank stub.  Slide the assembly up inside the spar tube, position everything correctly and drill new rivet holes in the 1 foot tube.  Remove again, clean everything thoroughly, then epoxy glue the new tube in place and replace all the rivets.  We also put two rivets through the skin and spar tube of the flaperon near the end of the inserted tube. Finally put a ring of weld around the end of the bellcrank stub with plenty of wet rags to keep your new glue and the plastic hanger bearing cool.  Before you cut the arm off the bellcrank you will need to make up some sort of a jig or take exact measurements so that the new assembly will end up in exactly the same place as the old one.  

Continuing Airworthiness Notice - 27-012                  CAA of New Zealand.

Avid and Kitfox fitted with flaperon.

See attached report img057.pdf and images for report and notice.

That sounds great! Yes as long as I do normal flying, it should be safe. 

Post a couple of photos Chopndrag.

If would do it I would just weld a small bracket on the tube to bolt the strut.

The door strut. 

It feels crazy that me on one side of the world (Sweden) is restoring a set of Speedwings and you on the other side is scrapping them. Why do you do that?

Yes I have the AC43.13, digital and analoge. I will take a look,

What do you guys think about straightening the wing struts? Could I bend it cold? Its bent about 15 degrees. 

Thanks. I like the retractable belts, even if its a little unnecessary. 

The two piece thin alu sheets makes it possible to bend it a little to get is out easily. The leather makes it a little cosy. Under the sheets, there is attached a little angled profile next to the triangular tubings to hold the shelf in place. 

The gas strut brackets are just riveted to the door and fuselage. Nothing fancy but it works well. I believe its important that there is no play if you want to be able to fly with the doors open. I will try to remember to take some photos next time.

I am also thinking about making a sailcloth /dacron cargo bag under the turtle deck. Just so that i can bring my sleeping bag and tent with me. I am not worried about the CG because I have flown with 10lb weight on the tailgear with great performance. I will just remove the tail weight when carrying load. 

The hatrack and cargo box in my Avid Flyer C. Made out of synthetic leather glued on thin aluminium sheets. The box is as big it can be but still not interfering with the aileron pushrods at folded position. Perfect to store loose parts in the box and bags on the hatrack. The hatrack is easy removable to be able to fold wings. A cargo net could be used to secure the bags or stop them from falling on to your neck. 

chopndrag.  The egt should get cold if you oil it to much because that will make the fuel mixture more rich. Or do you mean the cht ? 

Remember that when the outside air temperature gets low, the egt gets high because of the high density of the air. Normally we move the clip on the needle one notch down to compensate this. 

I have been studying the pilot/idle jet setting on Rotax two strokes.  The reason why they are running rich on idle is because the carb don't have any acceleration pump system. The rich setting on idle is there to compensate for the big and sudden airflow (lean mixture rate) that will happen when you move the throttle quickly up from idle to 100%. For example during a sudden go around during cold weather. 

But, many say that Rotax is scared and the standard 50 idle jet is way to big. Many have reported that 45 is just as safe as 50. I will change to 45 and do some quick throttle acceleration test on ground in different temperatures. 

I cleaned my air filter and barely oil sprayed it before mounting it back. Also, the air temperature has gone down quite much since last time. The EGT went up to 1100F and I am happy :-)

Thanks a lot for the help!

Now, back to the  question about the CG on a Speedwing. Anyone? 

Thanks a lot for your reply! 

I used to have a T-birdII with 582. I used stock jetting and it was perfect in all ways. So it feel like something is wrong with this engine. It could also be the egt gauge that is reading wrong. I will check the spark plugs for light chocolate brown color.  

Anyway, I double checked the jetting and they are all exactly as you suggested (stock jetting). Exept for the idle air screw and mid range needle clip position. The idle air screw is all the way out and the clip is on the top position. The float level was a little high so I bent the float arm lever a little so that the level vent down a little.  I had 6400rpm at take off today so I am happy with the propeller loading. I have the original two bladed wood prop from Avid 1992. 

I have tried a lot to synchronize the carbs at 2009 rpm and adjust the idle screw, but the engine shake a lot. The B- gearbox could of course be worn out but it feels ok at 2300rpm.  I have ordered idle jets 50. 

THanks for the tip about leaking primer. I will remove the primer tubes and block the nipple next time to see what happens.  

I will also clean and lightly oil the air filter again.

Hi Dan.

3 years ago this post was active, hoping I could bring it up again. Do you still happily fly your speedwings?  I am working on a pair of Aerobat wings to put on my early C model that came with STOL wings. I would love to be able to switch between travel and bush flying. I do wonder what max static RPM you have on your 582? I get 6200rpm and it feels cold and thirsty. The idle air screw is all the way out, jet needle clip is on top position and the egt is still 900F at 5800rpm. 

Also, do you know what CG range you use? As I understand, all Avid Flyers are considered nose heavy and need ballast in the tail.

Qoute" After discussion with the designer of the aircraft, the center of gravity was moved to the published aft limit of 16.5� with the assurance that the aircraft was tested well beyond the published limit. For reasons of liability at that time, the published limit was set very conservatively. The aircraft was tested beyond 19.0�, which can be safely used. (37% mac). End qoute.

Ref: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106861

 Here is me flying my Avid flyer with STOL wings

I made this form out of inspiration from CC Milne Pocock book Bush & Mountain Flying. 

One is for for Avid Flyer mod C and the other one is universal.

STOL test flight form.xlsx

STOL test flight template.xlsx

Bonjour Fredrik! 

Actually there is one speedwing that has been registered as an ultralight in Sweden.  But because the stall speed is high I would probably have to make it an experimental if I want to register it. If I want to register the speedwing ;-)