RDavidson

Send Dale a message...

the antenna works really well...

Ron

Hello Thomas!

I’m glad the plane is doing well!

I did it the most difficult way possible...I won’t even bore you with it...my buddy used the LSA T3 and it mounted right up with no mods if I remember correctly...you can call and they will tell you if it will fit or not.  I’m pretty sure it mounts to what you have though...at the most you would add a spacer or two, but that would be it.

My buddy’s name is Barry Cole, so yo might look at his posts in the Magnum section to see if he posted his T3 install.

Good Luck,

Ron

Word...

Vance,

I don't want to poop on Matco because I haven't used them, but originally the Magnum used Cleveland everything.  I get that the cleveland stuff is crazy expensive and it makes Matco very attractive, but if you go big tire/bigger gear at anytime I think the clevelands are the way to go.

I could be wrong about matco, so don't through eggs too hard at me!  lol!

Ron

You can call other insurance companies...Barry Cole found coverage to test fly his Magnum.  Might depend on amount of tailwheel time?  He had to shop around and work with the underwriters.

A lot of times they put you in an impossible situation, like requiring me to get 5 hours of instruction in an already flying magnum with an instructor that had 5 hours in a Magnum...Yah right!

Sometimes you just have to roll the bones, but for test flying, especially the first time, insurance be good...

If you do "roll the bones" look for great property insurance...there are a lot of umbrella insurances out there that would cover any damage you could do to other peoples property.  You don't want to be completely irresponsible, but you can only do what you can only do...

First Flight advice: Get and Read the EAA Flight Testing book, Read the FAA Flight Testing AC (Very Long but there are some golden nuggets in there)  Biggest take away...Take your time!!!  Don't have a crowd watching or filming.  Pick the PERFECT weather day.  Make the first flight a short one.

And the advice that just about every guy that has gone through this will give you  DON'T DO A HIGH SPEED TAXI TEST!!!  This is my pet peeve...All a high speed taxi test does is put you in between flying and landing...the most critical phases of flight.  In these little airplanes that zone can be only 1 mph different.  If you don't take my warning please do this...If you do get off of the ground, push in full power and fly...

I personally did a high speed taxi test in a Starduster Too biplane and explored both sides of a 150' wide runway, several times trying to stop.

My buddy just did the same thing in his airplane and a high speed taxi test.

of course you want to make sure it tracks straight and the brakes don't pull, but you can feel that at slower speeds.

My two cents...won't even buy you a cup of coffee anymore...

Best of luck, and don't let this scare you...you will do fine.

Ron

I thought I would drop this in a new post...

dynafocal type one measures 30 degrees at the mount platform on the engine case, it is the most common of the two types...

dynafocal type two measures 18 degrees at the mount platform on the case, it was developed for the Piper PA-30, from what I read, but is not very common.  I have never put my eyes on one...

I’m going to go out on a limb and guess that Avid stuck with the Dynafocal Type One for it’s mounts.  Mine was, and three others that I have put my eyes on have been.

Thanks,

Ron

Thanks Chris!

The downfall of a Bee schemed airplane is an absence of deniability.  Somebody called the cops on me, saying they thought an airplane was having trouble out in the desert.  When I got back to my home Airfield I got the tower asking me to call them!  Everything worked out, but a nice plain white airplane could be a benefit! 

I don’t even want to think about having two projects hanging over my head!!!  Ha!  Keep plugging away...

Ron

Leni,

Thank you soooo much for the advice.  I finally had an airstrip to myself and did about 10 short field landings and takeoffs using full flaps...man did it work much better.  I’m still working on the landings, getting slower and slower and increasing aoa, but it is something I’m easing into.

Take offs are improving greatly!  I have been just leaving full flaps in, I will soon incorporate the stick back flap handle up...

I found that if I push the stick full forward like a normal take off, and push full power in, as the plane speeds up and the tail becomes effective the stick naturally wants to come back to center then I keep pulling back slowly.  This gets the tires off the ground then I push over and use ground effect to accelerate.  I’m getting airborne in 100-200 feet.  I’m no where near max performance, but it is what I feel safe with right now.  I need more practice and of course gas money!  Lol!

I was using a 2900’ dirt strip.  I had a 5-10 knot direct crosswind.  My last 5 landings/full stop/take off were in the first 1300’ or less.  So much improved!

I’ll keep working on it though...

https://www.facebook.com/EAA808/videos/1579652455466083/

Thanks again for the ideas and advice!

Ron

Just looked through this entire post...TJay you have some serious building skills!  Looks fantastic!

Ron

Fellas,

If you know about wingtips/flat plates/winglets jump in and let us know what you have learned.  We are trying to determine if flat plates on the wingtips would be better than the finch tips or others for STOL not Cruise...

assumptions are that wing area stays basically the same...so same length of wing.

Here is a bit of the previous discussion...please jump in...

Leni,  I am all for tip experiments.  I hope that someone can give some actual measured comparisons of same plane, same pilot, same weight, same winds, and at least two different tips.  Sounds like the Avid (Finch?) tips that turn up at trailing edge do a better job of shedding the vortexes cleanly away from the wings, making them stronger, (what they are designed for), which should help the performance of that plane even though it affects the one behind it.  Maybe they are not the best for formation flying?  EDMO

Edited 5 hours ago by EDMO

Ed & Leni,

Im going to move this conversation over to the  Avid General Hangar to get some more input and keep us from polluting Barry’s post any more than we already have...

Ron

Thanks Leni!  That is exactly what I was needing...I owe you $5 and a cup of coffee 

Ron

Wait, I just re-read that, are you saying increase the AOA?

Leni,

You are spot on...before the VG install a 3 point Landing was a death wish because of the AOA causing the wingtips to stall right before touch down!  Yikes!!!  Much better now.

I was using half flaps on this one...I wasn’t really trying for a short takeoff here, I was working my ass off trying to keep it on the Jeep trail without being able to see over the nose!

What flap setting do you use when going for shortest distance?

I am just now experimenting with full flap settings...I listened to your advice about testing those settings out after you got the hang of things.

Thanks,

Ron

Brian,

Thanks...Lycoming I-O360, fuel injected, 200hp...The cylinders were too close to the cowling, so I made some extra room.

Ron

Flywise,

You aren’t kidding...my main trouble right now is with the brakes, rudder pedals, and my size twelves...I just need to get used to them.  I can easily fly the tail at about 1900rpm, but I start dragging tires at about that same point.  I need to make it out to a gathering at a grass strip and talk techniques with others and then try them out...

Ron

Finally getting to the fun stuff!  Did some Colorado Prairie work today...

Landing gear is great, but a consideration I did not think of when designing the dimensions, was the benefit of having the tires the same width apart as most trucks!  I'm just a little bit wider, so I'm off the trail on each side, but could be good for deep ruts...

I can't brag more highly on the functionality of the T3 Tailwheel suspension!!!  It is like riding in a hoopty!  No more chattering your teeth as your tailwheel grabs every bump...smooth as butter.

I'm still working on everything, it is all new...I landed and then had to taxi forever because I'm not used to landing in such a short distance.  I need some good grass field practice, but everything is dead here...come on Summer!!!

Blue Skies,

Ron

Uncle........

RJG I guess your Magnum needs winglets...

Best of luck,

Ron

I said they induce drag!!!  So your argument is because I don’t see them on Boeing and Rutan aircraft that everybody else is doing it for looks?  None of those are STOL aircraft!!!!  The want to travel fast through the air, meaning less drag, meaining they don’t want a fence hanging up in the air 3”.

I’m just asking that we don’t say that people are just doing it for looks!  There is obviously an advantage in slow flight.

I don’t know how dusty that book is that you have, but technology changes and everything stol is being revisited.

I didn’t want to get into this discussion in the first place because the only formal aerodynamics training I have is Air Force and we overcame drag with thrust and cared about flying at 600+ mph.  I didn’t discredit your claim about the finch tips, I just think fences might hold some merit other than decorative ornaments acting as weights on your wing.

Guys on this forum listen to what you have to say ED, I was one of them when I brought this topic up before building my wing, and I chose finch tips partially because of your theories and partial because I was tired of making mods.  Then I toured Kitfox and saw them experimenting with fences!

Nobody ever made an advance in technology by listening to “it can’t be done” or “somebody tried that already!”

Wright Brothers...I rest my case (absurd)

Ron

Ed,

we can agree that losing surface area doesn’t help lift...So same size wing, one with the Magnum eye gougers, and one the same length with a flat fence...which one does what?

I heard the finch tips were to help flow the air off the tips, and project the tumble away from the tips?

flat plates/fences keep the air from rolling off the side edge and funnel it off the back?

Both promote lift by keeping airflow stable, and induce a little drag as well...right?

Ron

Ed,

I’m not going to argue aerodynamics with you, because all I know is I empty my wallet and it must make me light enough to fly.

But something isn’t right about your fence logic, because Kitfox wasn’t doing it for looks, they were testing it for better STOL capabilities...I saw it first hand at their factory...

I said I wasn’t going to do it, but fences direct airflow just like vg’s do, so why wouldn’t they affect lift?  I think we are actually arguing the same side of the coin here...improved airflow helps both speed and lift, minus the added drag of course.

And if we are talking about 3 mph who gives an F!  I hung 31” tires on mine that lost me 15mph probably! 

RJG

I think Barry and I are being lazy, but the wash out measurements are in the manual...Do you have one?  Barry and I both burned ours in frustration!  Just kidding...

Yes, if you are going Stol crazy I would put the flat fences on the end!  It would look cool...like the Kitfox 7

I would say keep the tips if mph is your goal...go with fences if STOL is your plan.  Then compare the 2-3 mph difference in the end and either celebrate or morn...

Ron

I got my T3 suspension mounted and adjusted today and took it for a spin...I love it!  It makes the tailwheel transition smooooth in a wheel landing...no shimmy at all either.

I put the “Fat Mat” Matco Tailwheel back on it and taxiing on pavement with it sucks, but I made some adjustments to it and it handles much better...so I’m going to give it another chance.

Here is a drop test video...

Ron

https://youtu.be/L2o-xrKIahM

Flywise,

I’ll let Barry comment on the weight, he bought the LSA version.  I’m sure that is 5# without the wheel though.

Also, be aware that even the LSA version only fits 1.5” and 1.75” Tailwheel receivers.  So unless you want to grind your new Tailwheel suspension, plan accordingly...

I bought the Piper Version and it is about the same weight as the Husky 3 leaf spring I had on it before.  For any other magnum owners or builders out there, the Piper 1500# coil over spring is way to stiff for the light tail loads of the Magnum...the lsa coil over spring of 1000# would have been fine, but you live and you learn!  It really lifted my tail up and maybe now I can taxi without doing the drunk swerve so I can see what is in front of me 

Ron

Barry,

I will look at the knot again, but I remember a certain diameter curve on the needle made it all work.  You had to run the thread through the next hole then back through that hole, through the rib lightening hole diagonally back up to the original set of holes...I’ll have to draw it out or something.

You obviously figured out a way to do it.  It ain’t easy but by knot 1000 it is reflexive!  Needles curved exactly right make it much easier.  I used a non standard 2” spacing, so even if I find my needles they wouldn’t help you.

Measure diagonally from the right hole on one line to the left hole on the next line down, that should be your diameter for your hoop, or curved needle. This is how you get the thread through the lightening hole.  Then use a straight needle (curved tip) to take the thread back down through the bottom left hole and up to the top left hole...make sense?

Ron