Av8r3400

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Posts posted by Av8r3400


  1. If the 7SS system had proper ball joints, I'd buy one today and modify my FWF to make it fit.  That design is prone to breaks as well.  I am convinced it's the sleeve joints.


  2. I got a flier for Bruce's Custom Covers and guess whose Suber Avid is on the cover along with another nice looking Kitfox(?)...


  3. I would think the number of fold, unfolding cycles would have to be astronomical for there to be a problem.  Like the elevator horn bolt on an Avid, this might be something to be inspected every so often if you fold on a regular basis.


  4. I have that system shown in the box, installed on my plane now.  I hope it lasts.  My next step will be to replace the slip/sleeve joints on the muffler with proper ball and socket joints to allow for some movement.  I believe this is the major problem area.  It is where my first plane cracked (as well as around the stinger) and where my last system on the plane cracked prior to the stinger failure.  If you look at the cracked muffler you can see the major reinforcement pieces around the slip joints.  This misaligned the sleeves enough that assembling the system went from a real pain to almost impossible.

    IMO, this exhaust system is a poor design from Kitfox with many area that could be improved.


  5. One thing for sure, a little flare before touchdown would have made this a lot better outcome. Plunking down on the nosewheel with no flare is a real no-no. Failure to actually fly the airplane is the principle cause of the crash, once the engine seized.

    And thanks Cloud Dancer, this is a great thread, and those guys who did the teardown are fantastic pros.

    If you look closely at the video, you can see the plane was in a stall with the yoke all the way back when it hit the runway.  The failure to fly the plane was as soon as power was being lost the pilot did not push the nose down.  MAYBE then, there would have been enough energy to flair, maybe.

    2 people like this

  6. Are the notches really useful?

    As a handle, you could use a golf ball drilled and bonded to the lever, the touch  is unmistakable!

    For me, I wanted "notches" of flaps instead of the infinitely adjustable system that came from the factory.   A personal preference.

    I further modified my plane with an elevator trim tab to eliminate trimming with the flapperons.


  7. I like it.  Looks good!  This is a project I have been threatening to do for years and have not done it yet..  I think I can shave close to 10# out/off my panel.

     

    :BC:

     

    LOL that's a pretty good savings.  My next project is to improve the lame flap handle in the picture that is hard to find because its so small.  Got any ideas?  Pictures?

     

    post-36-0-69623400-1433474311.jpg

    1 person likes this

  8. Larry, if you have any other pictures you could post of the plane, and what all they did in the front, it would be nice to see them.  Thanks,  JImChuk

    Jim, what are you looking for specifically?  I can get what ever photos you want.  I'm working with Dave on another project currently and will be right next to "Sputzy".

     

    6BD97D82-BB10-4920-A3CD-AEC67D08FB58.thu

     

     


  9. No photos.  I'll take it with a grain of salt.  The Mangy Fox had an advertised empty weight of 575#.  There was that much dirt in the damn thing!  With the BRS and all the other BS in it, it wasn't even close to that.  Now she's a portly, but happy 702# empty.

    I have a good friend who built his Kitfox IV-1050 very, very light and was conscious of every ounce.  He started with a 582 near the 500# mark and after he converted to a 912UL his empty weight was 585#.  Maybe it can be done lighter than that, but I haven't seen it personally.

    1 person likes this

  10. Moving the seat will be near impossible.  Extending and lowering the footwell is a far better option.

    This "C" model Avid fuselage belongs to a friend of mine who did the stretch and lowered and stretched the footwell like you want to do.

    IMG_0263.thumb.jpg.3342fc6b2e6333cd78a09

     

    What ever you do, be sure to factor in the 300 pounds that engine will weigh.  Your gross will still only be 950 (?) that the "C" model airframe was designed to...

     

     

    1 person likes this

  11. I used a couple scrap pieces of 5/4” treated deck boards under the seat of my old plane to keep the pan off the linkages. 

    I attached them to the tubes below with a little hysol and zip ties. 


  12. The Grove needs to have the mount shaped carefully. The aluminum beam bends around the upper attach brackets, which are "pillow blocks" that carefully shape the bend as the hard landing is executed, and that bend determines the strength of the gear. When I tried to buy Grove gear they quoted $500 for those aluminum attach brackets (which made the entire gear package almost $3000 (and made it a non-starter).

    If some of those guys who have the gear attach blocks could carefully document the shape, it should be easy to have them machined.

    On my plane they are square clamping blocks that span the front two "float" mounts.  Nothing special.

    On my friend's C-model/Kitfox hybrid they are also square clamping blocks.  The gear sweeps forward negating the need for the very odd looking mounts shown above.  The current Grove website lists the Mk 4 Avid gear at $2519, complete.  

    http://www.groveaircraft.com/landing_gear.html


  13. When I converted my old Kitfox IV-1050 from OEM bungee to Grove the overall weight gain was 12 pounds.

    Easy trade off to me.


  14. Very happy with my equipment.  

    ADSP in and out:  Nothing.  

    Until the market comes up with a reasonably priced solution that integrates with my current equipment, I'm not buying anything.  I will avoid the airspace.