Gerry Visel

I did not have one on my Challenger's 503, and was constantly replacing starter brushes.  If the battery was at all down, the inertia load from trying to swing the prop caused load on the starter to burn out brush leads.  
My new Avid's 582 has a clutch, and I was a bit worried about the starter location, buried in a box cut through the firewall, where I'd need to pull the engine to fix it.  The clutch in the gearbox almost completely addresses that, as starts were like starting my lawnmower.  By removing the prop inertia load during engine start, it just starts and runs.
But I was able to get home more than once with the Challenger by hand propping, which I cannot do with this puppy.

Gerry Visel

I know this is an older topic, but I just found this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYHuXs2F3ds

Mine has a little wood block beside the flap lever, with groves cut into it for the lever to drop into.  Easy peasy.

Hey, Guys, thanks for the inputs!  This sure worked for me.  I added four AN3 washers under the probes, and they steadied down right now.  I've been chasing that for six months!

I saw that too and was thinking of adding a tab to stiffen things there a bit, but that is way down my action item list!  For now, I just leave the two halves attached to each other and remove and install them as a set.  Easy peasy.

This is an old post, but...  I was having problems getting my tach to read right in one switch position.  One side would drop to zero, but you could hear just a small rpm drop.  Brett Lawton at LEAF told me that the digital tachs don't like the tach signal from the stator, but to hook it instead to the yellow wires going to the voltage regulator.  I tried that, and it worked just fine!  I now have correct readings on both sides!

Also, if you have a TinyTach or similar tach that wraps around a plug wire, try wrapping it around two wires, coming from different CDI coils, and it will then read RPM in either switch position, rather than just one side.

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You are right.  My shop had replaced the stator and nicely labeled each of the leads, so I was not paying too much attention to the color.  The brown wire was the ground wire.

   I was resurrecting an Avid Mark IV with a 582 that had sat for five years.  After overhauling the engine, I reinstalled it, and hooked up the tach to the normal tach wire from the engine.  When I started it up, I was getting tach readings only on one side.  When the switch was in the Left position, the rpm sagged a bit as expected, but the rpm reading dropped to zero.  After weeks of asking around and troubleshooting (and fixing other issues!) I finally asked Brett Lawton from Leading Edge Airfoils (LEAF,) who had the answer!  

Although I cannot tell you exactly why, this issue is not uncommon when using an electronic monitor like a Dynon or EIS. To remedy the issue, use one of the lighting coils wires for the tach signal and the issue should be alleviated.

   Sure enough, the Taskem Model J tach had been connected to the brown tach wire coming from the engine. I disconnected it from there and connected it to one of the yellow wires going to the regulator, and now it reads correctly in all switch positions!  YESSS!!!  The prior owner must have only been getting readings on one side and thought that was normal.

Interesting thread.  I just came across a similar one on the Avid Flyers Facebook group, and they were installing them on the bottom of the wings, with the intent of decambering the wing some to increase the top speed!  LOL.  Wonder if you can do both?

FWIW, I added some to the top of my Challenger wing, not even full span, and reduced the stall speed by about five knots.  They sure can work.