lakertreetopflyer

I know on the HH and STOL wing the manual says on the 3rd rib out due to the wash out in the wings.. for me this translated into having the bottom of the door frame level. I checked at the rib and frame and it was dead on. It was alot easier for subsequent W&B to just put the small level on the door frame and go from there.

Thanks all

thats what i need

Brian

I am going to check my weight and balance this wknd on the mk 4. Dont really want to trust what someone else says.

I am guessing you level the wings front to back at the root..............is this correct

Brian

While the listed CG range really does not change, it moves it forward the same amount of you leading edge. Guys with heavier engines were adding to the leading edge to move the CG forwards to help with the nose heavy condition. While the published aft CG is something like 16.8" Dean Wilson says to run it at 18-20" and you will like the plane much better. He does not recomend stalling it without flaperons full on at a CG of more than 21" aft. Without full flaperon, you may not have enough down elevator to push the nose back over when she stalls.

I like flying mine at 18", STOL is much better!

Thsnks

that is just what i need to know

Brian

Hi all

I have been super busy and not had time for the mk4 lately.

I found thaT I have extended leading edges on mine.What does that do to the cg?What is cg range without them?With them??

Brian in MO

As far as speeds, with my mk 4 I downwind at 70mph, final at 60mph, and land in a 3pt attitude whenever the lift runs out somewhere under 40mph. I have the wide bungee gear and find it very stable.

Murphy

Thanks,thats what I am looking for

Brian

If you find another trailer deal like that = PLEASE, let me know.

ED in MO

Ed

I have a boat trailer I had picked up to turn into a trailer for a plane.I no longer need it.If you are interested you can have it for $50 or trade for??

I kind of need it out of here.......my yard already looks like sanford and son.

Brian

Brian,

I dont know if there is an Avid book on flying it, but it should be in some of the manuals.

I am a Kitfox builder (which is an Avid Mod) and there is a book on flying the Kitfox which might help some.

The FAA puts out a circular on "Test flying amateur-built airplanes", and I can get the number for you - think I

also have some Kitfox info on that subject too.

Sounds like your wide gear is a lot better than the standard gear.

The Avid flyers on here have lots of experience with these machines, and I hope it helps you.

ED in STL

Thanks Ed

I have the FAA(we are not happy until you are not happy)stuff.Just looking for the official avid flight manual.

I picked up an open trailer from a kitfox today from a buddy for $200 bucks.I already started the mods tonight to let the wide gear fit on there.

Pretty good deal!!

Brian in MO

This is why I like this forum Brian,there is no scolding,you might get a ribbing or two but its all in fun.My tail wheel instructor taught me in a Piper Vagabond which is a short little wheel based plane.He also has a Skyraider which is a lot like an Avid or early Kitfox so he told me what to expect when I soloed my Skyraider.I wouldnt taxi at anything above 15 with my plane unless I had plans for a takeoff.I did do some long crowhops which is hard for me to do because it doesnt give you time to set your landing up.The best way I could recomeened is pick a dead calm day early in the morning and fly the airplane in the pattern until it feels right for the landing.I had to go around three times before I could get my speed of 60 established for my final approach.When I did finally get it set up it just felt right and then everything came together.Sounds like you will do fine,most people would probably have groundlooped on a highspeed taxi in one of these little guys.It would be nice if you could find someone in your area to help with your first flight,needs to be someone experienced in these type of airplanes.I have lots of drag racing experience and thought it would help me with tailwheel stuff but I was way off on that theory.Its a technic that has to be devolped and that just comes from practice.Good Luck Randy

Well maybe scolded was the wrong wording........

I do like this list

What I am going to do is take the plane out to a grass strip with more friendly terrain around it. And no more of what I just did!!

Brian

Brian - Where are you located? (You could fill in your profile...)

SW missouri

Since no one gave you approach speeds - Kitfox recommends flying pattern/approach at 65 - AND NO FAST TAXI !!!!!

OLD PROVERB: "Keep thy flying speed up, lest the earth come up and smite thee."

How much taildragger time do you have?

ED in MO

I have around 150 hrs in my last plane ,a Bucccaneer B2B.Used to do it all the time in it.This is obviously a different beast.I am looking at this as a lucky to not tear anything up lesson.Thanks Guys

Not a scolding, but the original flight manual does caution against high speed taxi. Firewall it and get it in the air, no playing around on the ground unless you are fond of off runway excursions and landing gear, fuse, wing repair and buying new props. If you have the wide gear, you can get away with more, nad I do high speed taxi after landing on gravel strips all the time. I make every landing as short as I can and hit the numbers every time even if I have 6000' out in fron of me to taxi. Lots of times I will stick it on the numbers, dump the flaps and then come in with enough power to taxi at 30-35 tail up, but that is ONLY on gravel or grass strips. on runways, its 3 point and keep the tail wheel on the ground and taxi at 8-10 MPH.

Is there some where online I could get a flight manual for a MK4??

HOLY CRAP BRIAN!!!!!!!!

DON'T DO THIS UNLESS YOU WANT TO WRECK YOUR PLANE!!

"High speed taxiing" or "Crowhopping" is about the most sure way for a low time Avid-Kitfox pilot to wreck their plane! I've seen it many times with very experienced taildragger pilots. Push the stick forward to lift the tail then rotate and fly. Then either land straight ahead (long runway) or go around the pattern and land.

"Dancing" on the peddles is a sure fire sign that you were very close to disaster today. The wide gear saved your bacon...

OK OK OK

Consider me scolded.

How about the last part of the post.........speeds

Now that I have it turning at slow speeds ok,I tried high speed taxing this afternoon.All I can say is wow! Me thinks my taildragger technique is a bit rusty.I was dancing on the pedals a little too much.I got it going side to side enough I had to back off the gas a couple of times.Need a bit more practice!!This is a mk4 582 with wide Airdale gear and Nanco 21 tires on concrete.I have a feeling this combo has a little to do with it.I may try moving the springs in on the extensions I put on the rudder horns,may make alittle less sensitive.

I did get up to 30 indicated with elevator neutral and no tail up.I thought it would come up by that speed?

Can anyone give me some speeds.....take off ,flap settings and speeds,approach speeds? I looked on the other forum and found some ,but they look like maybe they are for a pretty early model.

Brian

I had the same issue initially with my stock mechanical brakes and crappy Maule Tailwheel. Get you a Matco TW and extend out the tabs on your horns. I would also look into Matco master cylinders. Do a search for Go Kart to Matco brakes on here for a 3 page write up on the conversion. Made it a whole new airplane!

Thanks C5

I put extentions on the rudder horns and it worked perfect.Now it taxis just fine.

As far as the brakes,it is all black max........calipers and master cylinders.I think I will tackle that a little later.

brian

I took some 1"X .125" flat bar and cut it 3" longer than the horns on the rudder. I bolted it to the rudder horn, then drilled holes on the outboard ends to go to the tailwheel chains. Gave me all the throw I needed to turn tight. Use your brakes to to unlock the tailwheel and get it to swivel. I have my CG at 19" when I am on wheels so I have alot of pressure on my tailwheel too. You can either go out on the rudder horns or in on the tailwheel arm, either way should do what you need.

Great Idea

I will try just redrilling holes inboard on the tailwheel bracket first,but may try yours also.As far as the brakes go,the guy I got it from had put large tires and wheels on this and the stock brakes will not work.So he put on those black max brakes.I just cant get enough leverage on the pedals.I even extended the tabs on the pedals and still barely any brakes.Am thinking of rigging some kind of heel brake .......should be able to get more pressure that way.

Brian

I finally got to taxi my new to me MK 4 yesterday.Problem is this thing takes a half a football field to make a turn at slow speeds.I am going to try moving the spring inboard in the tailwheel lever and maybe shorten the rudder stops........this plane does have the airdale wide bungee gear

Any one have any input.

Brian

I would be calling the seller to try and get some answers. Have never seen this on any plane or in any manual.

ED in MO

When i got it he said he was having some troubles with temps with the cheeek radiators only.He put a small rad under the belly(his buddy handbuilt areally cool fiberglass shroud)

Brian

My 532 flew just fine with a belly rad 1/2 the size of my VW Rabbit rad.

Sorry, thought you had a Soob, and these need more cooling. If you decide to ditch the cheek rads, I would be interested.

ED in MO

This is the way it was set up when I got it.............have not flown it yet.Just everything that is there up to tiptop

shape

Brian

I will give a little more info

1 my plane has a 582

2 it also is set up with 2 cheek cowl radiators and a belly radiator

Brian

Let me know how you come out - I have OReilly and a Rad shop real close to me. I think I have some figures on rad cooling area that might help sometime. Right now I have a belly-mount VW Rabbit rad that did well on a Pelican with a cooling tunnel built into the cowling - but always have the thought of Cheek rads on my mind.

ED in MO

I got the heater core from oriellys tonight.Size wise it is 1/2 smaller in width and height than what was in there.But......the ones that came in the plane have 1 inch in and outlets. The new one has 5/8 or 3/4. I think it should be alright for this time of year,but may have to watch temps come summer.Best part is this is only 35 bucks!!!

Brian in MO

If you find a pair for sale, and dont intend to buy them, please let me know.

ED in MO

Yea I know the routine about it being a go cart...........about 10 years ago I was buying 2 stroke oil at a motorcycle shop I frequented.I had already payed and as I was leaving mentioned it was for a ul airplane.The guy started telling me I had to give the oil back.Ever since they are always go carts.

I did go to Oreillys and went through there heater core book.I have one coming to check out.

Brian

I am finishing up going through this plane to know what I have..........thought I was done........I now need a cheek cowl radiator or repair this one.

Has anyone found any automotive ones that will work??

Brian

I am moving mine forward to just behind the windsheild - takes more line to do it, but keeps them in sight.

ED in MO

I like that idea.........

I am working on the mk4 I just got(just checking everything out).It has a fuel shutoff for each tank behind your shoulder.Is it necessary to have one for each?There is one on the dash to shutoff fuel to engine.It seems like shoulders could bump them .Do you need to be able to shut tanks off individually?

Brian

Please please please find someone to give you a checkout. These planes will get you in trouble quick if you don't know what to expect.

I am planning on it.........do you know of anyone flying one this part of the county??I am in SW Missouri.There is a guy in my area but he keeps tearing his up!!Believe I will stay away from that!!

Brian