flyboy01

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Posts posted by flyboy01


  1. Nile

    I have a new Gforce oil cooler "size that you need" ordered and being sent to me. As soon as receive it I'll send it on to you. Company I got it from doesn't mail to a P.O. box. It is only the cooler. If you need new hoses, fittings or mounting brackets let me know, I'll get those to you also.

    Thank you SO MUCH!! I haven't been able to reply to this forum for some reason lately. I have all the hoses and fittings already. 

    Ok, did you notice that is says all Rotax 912 engines.  My question is are you talking about Mobil 1 or are you talking about Mobil 1 4T oil the two are very different oils.  Really makes no difference to me what oil you choose but I would like to think that you are making an informed choice.

    You're right wypaul, that SB does apply to all 912's. If you're on the Kitfox owner's group on facebook we have a really interesting discussion going about engine oil.


  2. You may want to do a little more research.  The way I read it Aero Shell Sport Plus 4 is the only oil currently recommended by Rotax. Mobil 1 covers a lot of oils.  The one that was previously deemed as acceptable was Mobil 1 4T which is motorcycle oil. It has the additives necessary for the Rotax gearbox, But is not suitable if you are running 100LL.

    http://docusearch.flyrotax.com/files/pdf/d06038.pdf

    Thanks wypaul for the concern. I would be running only MOGAS as I couldn't afford avgas anyway... This SB by rotax states that if using MOGAS full synthetic oil (Which is what I bought) should be used. https://www.experimentalaircraft.info/doc/rotax/si-18-1997-r5.pdf 


  3. JimChuck, did you end up going with the powerfin or sticking with the IVO? If you want to sell either let me know! ;)

    I just picked up a 70" 3 blade Powerfin prop that will work on the Kitfox with a 912 engine.  Is anyone else running one of these and if so what are your thoughts on the Powerfin?  I did have one years ago for a short time on an Avid with 582, and it didn't seem to be any better than the IVO, and harder to adjust so I went back to the IVO.  JImChuk


  4. Are you sure that oil will work with the 912? The 912 has an integrated gearbox which I think requires high pressure additives to properly lubricate the gears. I really don't know much about what oil properties oil used on the 912 should have, but I would make sure it is also formulated to also work in high pressure gearbox application.

    I've just been using the Aeroshell specifically formulated for the 912 and may be spending way too much money. So I am very interested to know if 5w30 full synthetic will indeed do an adequate job!

    Chris, check out the link JimChuck posted, Mobil 1 5-w30 is the recommended oil for the 912 and is on sale right now at O'Reilly's . I also just learned today that the spark plugs are a 16mm deep socket and are tightened to 177 inch/lbs. I'm going to start working on the engine in ernest soon. Does anyone know where I can find a exhaust bend for the pilot's side? They seem really expensive from rotax... 


  5. If anyone wants to know what motor oil a 912uls uses, I just picked up 3 quarts of 5-w30 Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Motor Oil from O' Reily's. for $9.99 a quart. I am also still looking for new blades for my 72" IVO ultralight, although I did just contact someone on Barnstormers who has a two-blade Magnum for $300.


  6.  

    I'd say take it to a local auto body shop, maybe one of the bigger ones that also work on semi trucks Our local body shop has a huge frame straightener and a couple of large presses. These type of shops are used to bending metal back to original shape and can do so fast and for a reasonable rate. Much cheaper than a new gear. Some even have huge ovens to stress relieve the metal after bending. Some shops might not want to take on an aircraft part but others have no problem  with a simple tweak job like yours.

    That's a good Idea! I don't have a big body shop locally but I'll call around and see if anyone would be willing to do something like that.


  7. So grove just responded to this e-mail I sent:

    Hello, I have a model III Kitfox with Grove Gear that was involved in a accident. The pilot’s side has been bent in about 2 inches. The serial number is HH604-75, is it possible straighten these gear or will I have to replace them.

    Thank you,

    Nile McMillion

    And I got this response:

    Hi Nile,

    Unfortunately, your gear was manufactured by Hammer Head and not Grove. As it is no longer cost effective for us to repair that manufacturers gear, we recommend you order a new one.

    Thank you,

    Florence Baldino

    Grove Aircraft Landing Gear Systems Inc.

    Does anyone know anything about this? I can't find anything online except for a Hammer Head Aviation that only makes composite parts like cowlings and wheel pants. Also what Oil Cooler are you running on your 912? Mine is a Earl's Performance Products oil cooler but it needs to be replaced. Any help is appreciated! 


  8. Alright! Tubing is on its way! BTW has anyone ever tried straightening Grove Gear? The pilot's side is bent in about ~4-5 inches. What are your opinions on Grive vs Cabane vs Standard? Does anyone have a set of gear they would be willing to part with for cheap? 


  9. It's been a long time since I've posted anything on here, but thanks to the amazing amount of support I've been blessed with from my GoFundMe campaign, I am happy to say that I will be ordering the 4130 Tubing I need from A.S. this week. I would love to get your opinions on anything you would do differently or anything else I should order. Thanks for your support!


  10. Thanks Jim, i. I did mean Plexiglass, as in Acrylic. the stuff I would be using would be .100 acrylic sheet with a 10 year no-craze or yellow warranty: https://plaskolite.com/catalog/optix-acrylic/ I would heat form it like these guys did on a Kitfox: Kitfox windshield How to replace It Simple I live 2.5 hours from the nearest big town and 45 minutes from a very small town so I don't exactly have easy access to most supplies.


  11. Hello everyone! I'm back from vacation and ready to hit it! I bought some bar clamps to help straighten the tubing, a new soldering iron for doing fine work on the instrument panel and other avionics, my dad gave me some sweet brand new off-road LED lights that I'll mount on the end of main struts for landing lights (reeaallly bright!) I've got tubing in my cart at aircraft spruce and it turns out my local hardware store has the best prices on windshield grade plexiglass anywhere! My next video should be published soon so if want to support what I'm doing Click Here! I really want to upload pictures but the forums haven't been working for me the last couple of days.

    Signing off for now!

    Nile


  12. I just uploaded a new video that overviews what has to be done and the fiberglass work on the cowling, I did forget to mention that I do need to straighten the upper portion of the cockpit where the wings attach and replace tubing on the door trusses which straightened in about a hour with a C-clamp and some square tubing.  I plan to do a video dedicated to straightening and replacing tubing since the only other one I could find was from the 1940's.(!)

    Sorry about the intro and outro quality...


  13. Definatly don't run the blades you have.  You can't imagine how much that engine will shake if the prop is out of balance.  I hit some slush on a frozen lake one time, and it flew up into the  wood prop. A piece of the trailing edge that was maybe at the most 1/2" wide by a foot or so long and pretty thin broke off.  At a medium idle, it felt like the engine was going to shake off the front of the plane.   It's tempting to want to hear the engine run, but remember, it was running fine before the crash, and should run fine now if it wasn't damaged.  Worry about the rest of the plane for now is my advice.  Here are a couple of pictures of two different  ways to do your rib tail repair that I couldn't post on the Team Kitfox site.  If you do this repair, use the right kind of plywood.  This was for an Avid Flyer, but the Kitfox is very similar. JImChuk

    Photo0653.jpg

    Photo0655.jpg

    Thanks Jim for the pics and advice, I just took the prop off and there is nooo way i'm even thinking of trying it anymore! :o 


  14. Only thing doing a runout test on the flange tells you if the flange is bent. Its the gear train that gets damaged usually on the rear of the engine with the drive systems. With a gearbox, damage to the engine is usually nil. Just a minor prop strike normally just damages the prop. A sudden stoppage can do major damage to the other parts of the drive train which can run normally for a while up to failure.  Any sudden stoppage SHOULD require a teardown at the least. That's why one should use caution when buying a used 912.  An engine turning 4-5000 rpm's gets stopped suddenly, its not rocket science as to what keyway's get sheared or gear bolts get overstressed including the accessories that are bolted to the rearend.  Bad thing is, teardowns are not cheap and are usually put off till its too late or the engine is passed on to the next buyer.

    Thankfully, The owner/passenger killed the engine before impact so I would be surprised if the engine or crank was damaged, nonetheless I'm still going to check the crank with a dial indicator. 


  15. I talked to Hal from Zipper Big Bore this morning and he (along with my motorcycle mechanic/Machinist dad) said he runs the 912 without a prop all the time with no damage.  We checked the prop flange for run-out and it was .00005" or half a thousandth out of wobble which is almost nothing. 

     

     

    Unfortunately the right flaperon detached on take-off this May and the airplane was badly damaged

     

     

    Why did the flaperon detach? That could be an useful information for other pilots!

    I'm still investigating but I know there was a Mandatory Service Bulletin on it in the UK. They appear to have de-laminated and then failed, as far as I know this is only one of three times this has happened. The service Bulletin calls for reinforcing the rib tails with aluminum angle. Here's the NTSB report https://app.ntsb.gov/pdfgenerator/ReportGeneratorFile.ashx?EventID=20180503X02040&AKey=1&RType=Prelim&IType=LA


  16. Welcome Nile

    looks like a great project there. How did the landing gear hold up to the accident? I see its the good Grove Gear. Have no idea about running the 912 maybe try to get a hold of Larry with the Mangy Fox he seems to know a bit about them engines and knows alot of guys running 912 engines.

    The landing gear held up admirably, they did bend in a little on the left side though. Any suggestions on straightening those?

    Personally I would not run the engine without a prop.  Additionally you need to do the crank test to make sure that the crank was not bent.  If the engine was not running the easy thing to do is check the runout on the prop flange.  Refer to the mantelpiece manual.  All that you will need is a dial indicator which is available from Harbor Freight.  My guess is that you will find that it is ok but if not the engine will destroy its self. Also I would pull the gearbox and do the runout on the end of the crank just to be safe.

    Thanks for the advice I will definitely try measuring the runout.

    ^ This 

    After a successful run out test, you can always bolt on a test club or any old prop for an engine run. I even know someone who used a pusher prop on his tractor. Obviously, you will need to exercise caution during the run up but it will tell you whether the engine is in good running condition or not and prevent an inadvertent engine damaging overspeed event.

    The IVO prop didn't break off, only cracked two of the blades and pushed them in a bit, could I run that? Also, What's a test club?

     


  17. Hello! In response to YouTube comments by Jim Chuck, TJay Larsen and John Durham I am starting this thread to log the technical side of my restoration of the 1000th Kitfox EVER(!).

     

    Unfortunately the right flaperon detached on take-off this May and the airplane was badly damaged, the ATP pilot did stop the engine before impact thank goodness so it appears to be OK. 

    My first question is: is it OK to run the engine (Rotax 912UL with slipper clutch) without the prop to confirm that it does in fact run? OR should I wait until I can afford two new blades for the IVO prop?

    Thanks,

    Nile McMillion

    Here's my YouTube Channel: Nile McMillion | YouTube

    If you want to support what I'm doing: Help Restore Kitfox 1000!

     

    Kitfox_SN_1000.thumb.jpg.521885d38f6051aJack_Fleetwood_Me.thumb.jpg.f1101c1b9c48

     

     

     

    Bon Hartline's planes.bmp