Jeromef

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Posts posted by Jeromef



  1. Ok  thanks this seems to be a very good idea - i had a look at all the cables and wires to be dissasembled to take the engine out and was quite discouraged!


  2. Hello all

    Some time ago, (just before the COVID mandatory containment stopped all flying activity in France) I tried to take off for a local flight, but could not start the engine. The battery was fully charged, and I even tried with an external car battery without success. I could hear the solenoid clicking, but the starter did not rotate the engine.

    What are the possible or most probable causes? (I have in mind the brushes or the solenoid contacts)

    I would if possible avoid to take out the starter, because on the MkIV this is not a simple task: I think it is not possible without removing the engine.

     


  3. Actually, the stick should be able to hold against you pulling fairly hard against the stops, so you don't bend the controls or jam them with a big force. The Fed and Military regulations wisely require a pull test like that (flight control proof and operations testing) and I think Dean built that into his sticks and controls, which are pretty nicely designed.

    According to FAR23-397 the stick should be able to take the forces:

    JAR23-397.png

    2 people like this

  4. FWIW, another approach is a fuel flow meter & totalizer.  Fuel flow data are valuable too.

    Be aware that the fuel totalizer gives you the total remaining fuel. in a 2 tank setup, the motor can run out of gas with a tank empty, and fuel remaining in the other. I learned that lesson the hard way!


  5. In theory, with the pressure provided from pressing the brake cylinder being the same, adding a second caliper would give half the pressure power per caliper, compared to signle caliper, and therefore the same brake power. The only difference being that the brake power is spread over double the brake pad surface. As long as the brakes are not heating too much the brake power should remain approximately the same.

    Hello Fred, I don't agree with that statement. In fact the pressure in the hydraulic circuit equals the force applied on the master cylinder divided by the area of the piston.

    The force applied by the caliper is the pressure multiplied by the area of the piston. If you put 2 pistons you double the force.

    1 person likes this

  6. The "Chateau de Neuville", XVIth-XVIIth century, some 50km from Paris, as seen from my Avid on a bright February day.

    It is for rent for weddings or events, if you like it!

    Neuville.jpg

    4 people like this

  7. One of my calipers is leaking, I disassembled it and the leak is caused by corrosion in the O-ring contact area.

    This model of caliper seems to be obsolete, could someone point me to the replacement P/N?


  8. That splice will be stronger than the original spar.

    Sure not: as the repair tube is inside the original spar, its section inertia will be lower.

    Moreover, the rivet holes will further weaken this area.

    2 people like this

  9. Are the notches really useful?

    As a handle, you could use a golf ball drilled and bonded to the lever, the touch  is unmistakable!


  10.  

    At face value I don't see this as major repair. If the tube is not dented and they are .085 wall thickness you still have a lot of strength there

    If you confirm hat the dent is less than 10% of the wall thickness, I   doubt the repair solution (from the Catalina spar extension) will be any stronger than the spar in its current state.

    1 person likes this

  11. As a structural engineer, I would say that the scratch is not in a high stress area of the spar (as it is essentally bears vertical flexion loads, the stresses are mostly at the top and bottom.)

    Personally, I would make a repair as you suggest. But its your butt in the seat, not mine!


  12. Are you using the flaps regularly? I tested them once, but was not convinced: they cause a lot of forward pitch. As my strip is quite long (350m) I dont really need them.