Dhallmark

Makes sense flywise. 

Drilled rear  holes that were already marked from factory on the onboard and outboard ribs then clamped the hinges at 50 and they don’t bind so I drilled the other two back holes but I haven’t drilled the front holes on any of them yet because it puts the bolt closer to the edge of rib than the back holes. I guess what I’m trying to say is that the back holes are centered from top top bottom of rib. It if I put the front holes at where 50 degrees would be they are closer to the bottom edge of the rib or not centered like the rear holes if that makes sense.

Kind of thought that may be the reason for the angle. I’ll do that. Thanks for the input!

In the manual for the mk4 it says flaperon hinges should be at a 50 degree angle off of rib tip. How crucial is this? I would like to mount the hinges closer to 55-60 degrees to get the bolt in the center of the rib like the outboard hung bolt is.

Thanks Allen. It’s a factory welded fuse and I’ve checked level on it in multiple places. Just looks way nose down. The problem with looking at other pics is that there are so few of them on the net. The manual for the manual for the champion is very sparse (basically just a supplementary manual to the mk4 manual that addresses some of the differences ) and I’ll go by that unless by chance somebody on here has a champion and has a different take on it. Thanks again for the input!

Asked this in the mk4 sub forum as well but didn’t get any responses so I’ll try here. Bought and Avid Champion which is basically a single seat Mk4. It has the same stol/heavy hauler wing as the mk just a little shorter and built with lighter spars. It came with two construction manuals, one for the champion which is pretty vaugue and really only has a few pages of variations about wing construction as opposed to the mk4 and a parts/component breakdown section, and a mk4 manual that I guess you just kind of wing it and use for the rest of the construction. The champion manual may not be complete. Anyhow, my question is this, I’m to the point of mounting the flaperons and rigging everything before tear down and final paint and reassembly and if I go by the mk4 manual it says to level the wings at the rib just inside the jury struts starting with right wing because it has the non adjustable lift strut then the left wing adjusting the heim joint until the left wing is level. At that point you clamp the flaperons in place and adjust the flaperon hinge mount to be at a 50 degree angle off the back of the rib tip. The problem is when I level the wing I expected the doorsill of the plane to be level in relation to the wing but it’s not. With the wings leveled the fuselage has a very nose down attitude and even the motor looks like it has a very pronounced downward thrust line. Is this normal on the avids or should I maybe level off the doorsill instead? When I do level the fuselage versus the wing it looks a lot more like the level flight “stance” I would think the plane would have in flight. Sorry for the long post. I know most guys don’t know much about the champion. I believe there were only about ten built and this one is number nine. Hope someone can help. 

Thanks! 

Damon

Not sure where to post this question. Did some searches but still didn’t quite see the answer I was looking for. Anyway, I picked up an Avid Champion. Not a whole lot of them made but from everything I’ve gathered and found out it is basically a single seat flyer mk.4. I’m about to mount the flaperons and in the manual it says to mount the wings on the plane and level them before setting the flaperon hinges at 50 degrees. The way it says to level the wings is to place a straightedge from leading edge to trailing edge on the rib just inboard of the lift strut points. I assumed when the wing was level the doorsill/ lower longeron would also be level in relation to the wing but if I level the wing the fuselage is in a very nosedown attitude. Does the mk4 have the same nose down attitude if leveled by the wings? Or should I just level at the doorsill? Does this make any sense? Thanks for input in advance.

Well both of those planes ended up being flops. The B model was actually an A model and the C model had crash damage which the seller did not disclose to me but I saw some tell tell signs of a nose over or ground loop. Had road rash on the exhuast and shoddy fabric repair on a wing tip! Anyway if anybody knows of a B or C model with a 582 on it let me know. Thanks for all the responses guys! Appreciate the help!

Agreed! I won’t be going more than 1 to 1 1/2 hours at a time. 

On the one with out the airworthiness certificate he has all the build documentation/photos so maybe not too hard to get the certificate. I’m fairly light and so is my wife so gross may not be too big a deal for me personally either

Matthew,

 I was going by the 300 hr tbo. I agree that it is probably pretty conservative. There is a big difference in price but I agree that easy paperwork is worth something. The B model has some other things that have me confused. It has a “C” cowling but has the old “A” fuselage style doors which I don’t think a “B” model ever had and a few other odd things. It could be a good deal or a big PITA so just trying to figure out what it is I’m actually dealing with before throwing any money down. Big problem is the b model one is too far to just go look at so it’s just pictures that I’m going by right now. We’ll see how it goes. I’m leaning more to the C but it looks like I could probably pick the b model (if that is what it actually is) for 8 grand. Only a good deal if it really is a b model and isn’t a paperwork nightmare.

Thanks 1avidflyer. That’s what I thought as well. 

So maybe not that big a deal on the airworthiness certificate? I believe this motor has been converted to a cdi/electronic ignition? Wonder if that’s a positive or negative change from the points? You clearly know a ton about these things. Is an early b model one I should avoid? Any known issues? I know some of the early kitfoxes had a flaperon hinge issue? Same on the avid?  Thanks for the info JimChuck!

Thanks JimChuk. So a b model could have either one of the door sill lengths depending on the year it was made?

Looking a buying an avid flyer that shows as a b model by the registration but it has doors that look like an a model. By that I mean that the bottom of the door or doors sill is not long like I have seen on b models and c models. So my question is is this an A model and they just called it whatever they wanted to? Has a C model cowl too. Very confused. Help appreciated!

Have lurked around on here for a while but just joined last week and am in the process of looking for an avid flyer. Have found two that I’m interested in. One is a C model with a blue head that is close to tbo a little overpriced but nice. The second is a b model that is a “0” time plane with a 532 but the price is good. I understand the 532 is not very well regarded and will either fly it and if it makes me nervous put a 582 on it or if works I will just fly it till tbo then replace it. The problem with this b model is that it Is registered but hasn’t gotten an airworthiness certificate yet. Is it going to be an issue getting one and I should just move on to the next plane or is it no big deal to get one? New to this part of experimental. Just ultralights up till this point. Any insight/opinion would be greatly appreciated!