donhallwr

FOR SALE:  2002 AVID FLYER, 70+ HOURS TT, 100 HP WATER-COOLED SUBARU ENGINE,  WARP GROUND ADJUSTABLE PROP, MGL-V10 DIGITAL RADIO, TALOS EFIS,  iFLY 740 TOUCHSCREEN MOVING MAP GPS, FOLDING WINGS.  CUSTOM TRAILER INCLUDED.  $17,300

LOCAL BUYER MAY CONTINUE LEASE ON CLOSED HANGAR AT PXE
CALL: 478-832-2161
DON HALL
PERRY, GEORGIA

54VH FOR SALE.pdf

One year and 5 months later and the AN4-32 bolt broke in half.  Evidently I have two choices:  drill a bigger hole and use a bigger bolt (which may take a couple of years to break), or figure out some other way to connect the rudder shaft to my front wheel.  Suggestions?

Water temp in my E-81 is running too close to 240 with full throttle cruise and climb.  Cools down to 200+- with reduced rpm.  Doesn't run hot all all on the ground.  Took the radiator off and checked it out, changed thermostat to new 160, and new radiator cap.  Checked temp on the ground, gauge reads 170-175, laser sensor shows 172, installed a baffle over the radiator to redirect more air through the radiator.  No change.  Running out of ideas.  Might just wait until fall for cooler weather.  Didn't seem to have any problems until this summer.

Robins Air  Museum is an awesome stop if you're in the area.  We're having a Fly-In and Open House at KPXE in Perry, Ga., (about 8 miles from the Museum) on Armed Forces Day, May 19. If you're in the area, stop by and visit.

Thanks, Bandit..... My insurance agent and I both appreciate the info.

Getting a new insurance agent, and he had a question I couldn't answer.  Never thought about it actually.  "What is the difference in a Mark 4 and a Bandit?"  We read engines, but my Bandit has neither of the Rotax listed (has Subaru). Is there a simple answer?

My 'miracle worker' in a (somewhat) local machine shop managed to repair my amateur work.  It was probably an easy fix for a pro, but I appreciate his work.  Reinstalled the head today and ran the engine for about 10 minutes.  Afterwards, no oil, water or pieces of metal were on the floor underneath, and very little blood, so I'm counting this as a victory.  Will run it for a while longer tomorrow and then recheck my torque on all the bolts. Advice from this forum (thanks, EDMO), and offers of finding parts are just fantastic. I appreciate all you guys! 

Willis, I may not need to replace mine.  Will know Monday.  Have a fantastic machine shop in the next town and he thinks he can take care of my mess.  If that doesn't work, will get back with you.  My soob is a '82-84, 1800. 
Don

Studs broke off/stripped when exhaust pipe met immovable object.  Unwisely, I decided I could put helicoils in myself.  Aluminum can be ground out pretty quickly if you're not careful.  Ergo.....new head needed. 

Looks like I'm in the market for a 82 Subaru E81 head.  My exhaust manifold (where the pipe connects) is close to unusable.  An A&P tells me it 'might' be OK for awhile, but probably not for long.  I'd rather replace the head than take a chance on the piece giving way halfway to wherever.  So, if anyone had a left head for sale or know of one, please let me know.  I've emailed Zodiac to see if they have parts for sale, but haven't heard from them yet. 

Have an E81 on my flyer.. Will check out the website (Warp) and see if that will explain things.  If not, guess I'll start out at 10 deg and test from there. 

Have new Warp drive props (3).  Sent a protractor along with the blades, but my Avid manual only describes a wooden prop.  Using the protractor, I can (theoretically) set any pitch I want.  Great!  Trouble is, I don't have a clue what pitch does what.  Any advice from the pros on this site (which is most everybody but me, I think) as to what pitch for best climb would be most appreciated.....

Don

Realize this is an old post, but would like to know if you still have the warp drive props (blades).

Don

A little off the subject, but I find that the tri-gear (which a few of us have) is easier to land if you treat it like a taildragger.  And with a 5000' runway here at PXE, I can do my three takeoffs and landings (for night currency) in one circle of the field.  Takeoff, get to a hundred feet, land, stop, takeoff, get to a hundred feet, land, stop, takeoff and do the pattern.  Try that in a Bonanza!

dholly: I bought a holder for the iFly, then dismantled it and used the part I needed.  Will try to figure out what I used and let you know.

Bandit:  Read you loud and clear... Hardly ever looked at the analogs after I got used to the Avid, and probably won't look at the EFIS after the novelty wears off.  It was kinda like climbing a mountain.  I just wanted to see if I could do it.  This is my first experimental aircraft.  Have had to have an A&P looking over my shoulder ever since I've been flying, and now that I don't have to, I'm having a ball fixing stuff that don't need fixing to start with.  That same panel in my prior Tomahawk would have cost me around eight to ten grand and I probably have less than $2000 in the whole Avid panel.  Justified?  Nope... Fun?  Absolutely!

Spent the last 3 or 4 weeks updating my panel.  Not completely finished yet, but enough to post a pic anyway.  Using the Talos EFIS and an iFly740 gps.  Had to keep the water temp gauge, not too many of the EFIS offerings have a water temperature setting.  Also kept the tach, oil and egt.  Replaced the handheld with a MGL V10 (the little square box in the middle); highly recommend it!  Still have to label the breakers, light switches and put in an "experimental warning" on the panel.  All in all, a highly illuminating experience.  I now know why avionics guys charge so much for their labor.  And the Bandit is so very easy to work on.  With the cowling, panel and top off, it's 95% stand-up work.  Still took me three hard weeks and a pint or two of blood (I learned not to cut zip ties with a sharp angle).  Also recommend the Talos.  The people at wingsandwheels.net were absolutely great to work with.  I have both screens on swivels so they can be seen easily from either seat.   Was able to remove the vacuum system (all tubing and horn) as the gyro is electronic.  The 740 has internal sensors and a screen for analog-looking digital instruments for a backup (just in case), but both screens have 5-9 hour batteries.  And spending over 5 hours flying the Avid is something I'll try to avoid.  It was fun, but I don't think I'll try it again......

Flew a Texan in Seattle a few years ago.  Yep, loud.... Yep, fun.... Guy told me to keep altitude and airspeed and I could do what I wanted.  Had a ball for 30 minutes, rolls, steep turns, dives..... Was so damn nauseated when I finished, I almost didn't make it back to the airport.  Had a tight hold on the barf bag.  Old ears just can't handle it anymore.....

Finally found my camera..... N258LN

Who was pilot in the Avid at Sun n Fun last week?  Watched him do circuits at the light sport runway.  Pretty sure it was a Soob engine (had the same exhaust stacks as I do).  He was flying in winds that I probably wouldn't have flown a Bonanza in!  Great job, whoever you were!  Took a picture and will upload it tomorrow.

No, no......  Gore did it!

Exhaust pipe braces:  The straps and muffler clamps probably added 4-5 ounces to the bird.  Still, since they're so far up front, I'll redo my w&b sheet next weekend.  Didn't see any difference other than (maybe) a skosh more trim.  Not sure about that.  At least this way, if the other one does break off, it won't fall on somebody's cat.  (Can.t make the one pic show vertical.  You're just going to have to look at it sideways...date is on the bottom.   sorry).

Took the pipe to a local muffler shop and had the crack welded.  Thanks for the idea.  The tech said metal fatigue was evident in the upper part of the pipe, probably due to vibration.  I'm going to set a brace about 6-8" below the manifold to try to alleviate the vibration on both pipes.  Will post a pic afterwards.  This forum has saved me a bunch of time, and probably money too.  Appreciate all you guys.

Wanted:  Right EA81 exhaust pipe.  Mine has the EGT connection, but I could drill that if you have one without it.  Mine broke right below the flange and might be able to have it welded (my welding leaves much to be desired), but would rather have a new or good used one.  Having one break in flight really gets your attention! 

Finally!! Have my 40 hours completed.  Is there a particular wording on the 40-hour endorsement I'll put in my log or is it a general "The aircraft is safe and flyable" type statement?  

Called and left message, but seemed to have gotten two numbers.  Anyway, will take it.  Send email with amount and how to get money to you.  Thanks for the reply.

don@donhallwr.com