zadwit

I need advice.. My 1990 KF2 does not have any reinforcements on the rudder pedals. THere are no cracks in 700 hours but they are not reinforced. How critical is this????

Also my new "Y" header pipe from my 582 BH is about 1 " longer than the old one that was on the plane. I cant make it fit without interfereing with the cowling support tubes that hold the engine cowl.....Has anyone seen this before??? Maybe I have an old 532  Y pipe????Ill try to get some photos tomorrow.

I looked at a model IV classic kitfox and it has a completely different engine mount... that is probalby what I need if it will fit a model 2 kitfox. then the exhaust if clear of the engine mount....puzzled in Washington..

Mark

exfaa@outlook.com

I need to cover some of the holes in the dash. I ripped out a lot of useless instruments.....Ill have airspeed and G-5 Garmin, Aera660 GPS and the a few engine instruments, EGT, blue water temp you can see now, starts at 100(f) , a small fuel pressure gauge and thats it. Dont need all the other crap and weight. ROC and ALt are going as well. WIll keep the AS as last resort backup. THe switch between the red light and the blue water temp gauge is for my electric fuel pump, mainly to fill all the lines before start so I dont have to crank and crank...

I have installed two of these header tanks that Murle Williams builds. They have a float switch in them so the moment the level drops in the header tank, it turns a red light on mounted in the instrument panel. THis tells you that you have 1.9 gallons of fuel left so better think about finding a place to set down. This could be because of restriction in the fuel system or just plain ran out of fuel....Ill try to post some photos. THere are three fitting on the top of the tank, left tank, center is for vent to the left tank, and right tank fuel inlet.

The float switch is on the top left corner of the tank and turns a red LED on mounted on the panel.

THere is a quick drain on the bottom to drain the tank on preflight.

A lot of pilots have been killed in PA-18 super cubs circling moose at 500 AGL looking at that the antlers.....circling left,the low wing gets too slow and just starts to stall and   drop,

Normal Pilot instinct is add right aileron...this lowers the left wing aileron and in effect increases the angle of attach on that wing and the plane rolls on its back into the turn and at 500 AGL you cant recover...a large part of the problem is the pilot has his attention outside the plane....and only 5% of his brain is flying the plane....

IT is very hard to train your mind to do this however if you insist on looking at anything at 500 AGL in a turn and the wing goes down, DONT add aileron, add full opposite rudder and the wing will slowly come back up....like I said it is hard to do.. If fact this applys even when flying level at real slow speeds... The Valdez SQ plane is the best video of how this happens I have ever seen....

AT 500 AGL if it happens, you will die. I know of two guys in different PA-18 who did it at 100 ft and they survived with broken ribs, arms and all beat up  and interesting enough the planes both ended up laying on one destroyed side with the opposite wing sticking up in the air undamaged!!! But at anything about 100 feet the plane ends up vertical and unsurvable...all for some stinkin moose!!!

My uncle showed me this problem early on in my flying lessons and I never forgot it....one second you are rock steady the next the plane is completely out of control.

personally I never got slow looking at moose and I NEVER circled them, I flew a race track and then could slow down with wings level....not always possible especially looking at sheep in the mountains but the the guy who posted above me, learn to use the rudder, not aileron when real slow....imho

Having thought about all this esp the wing folding, I would say you need to do nothing with regards to folding and unfolding the wings. I could be considered preventative maintenance under part 43 ( since the operation is simple in nature and requires not tools),but since part 43 does not apply to aircraft with an experimental airworthiness, no aircraft record entry is required so I think you are on solid ground as far as folding and unfolding the wings...The key is the airworthiness certificate it tied to the operation limitations. If the FAA inspector or DAR had included "make record entry when wings are folded or unfolded" then that would be the requirement but they dont do this so I would argue no record entry needed to fold or unfold the wings....since part 43 does not apply to your experimental airplane.

Now, I need to go find that file drawer!!!!or have a shot of vodka.... I am so glad to be out of the Fu&&in FAA rat race ... the managers tell you what to do,

whether or not you like it and a lot of times they are wrong... 

I had a new inspector do a ramp check on a PA-18 I was working on outside... He started to write up things he didnt like....then he asked me if this was a Citabria.!!!

I said no , its a PA-18 super cub... I said hey do you have a business card? He proudly handed me one.. I said it is apparent to me that you do not know what you are doing so I am asking you to leave my premises and I will be in touch with your supervisor. He left..... I called his boss and said DO not send that idiot back out here. He is a danger to the GA  pilots and planes in the area. He obviously needs more training. I told them if they persisted in sending him back to my airport, I would file a congressional complaint... He never came back.  They are like rats and have little boxes to check off in thier "wolrk program".

Granted there are a few good ones and eventually you will learn who they are.....but by no means should you be afraid of them. IF you feel threatend, document everything, take photos of them and if you have to file a congressional complaaint... THe congressman will make them answer for what they did....maybe even put them on an ODP (opportunity to demonstrate preformance) in order to keep their job......
 

YOu can go to FAA.gov and look up 8900.10 which is the handbook guidance for FAA inspectors.. it is a difficult to read sometimes but it tells the inspector how to do a ramp check.....among other things....

OK I stand corrected!!!! I forgot to put my head in the file drawer and slam it a few times before I typed my message..... basically the pink certificate it tired to the operation limitions for the airplane.... EDMO is correct  anyone can work on it....... still if you are an A&P and doing the inspectiopn for someone else, be CAREFUL.... there are lots of hidden traps. As long as the owner/maintainer tells you everything he has done, you have a better chance of not falling into a trap.

We are fortunate that the FAA does not regulate experimental aircraft so much.....

Mark Smith

Rules & Regulations of Airplane Building in the USA
By Ron Alexander

We hear the word "experimental" used within the sport aviation industry on a regular basis. The most common use of experimental applies to a classification of an airworthiness certificate used for a custom built airplane. This is different from the airworthiness category assigned to an airplane that is mass produced by a manufacturer which is then sold to the general public. I will explore the exact meaning of the word experimental later in this article. Suffice to say that FAR's (Federal Aviation Regulations) pertaining to the operation of experimental airplanes can be confusing. I will attempt to clarify the confusion that exists and to simplify the regulations as they apply to building an airplane. Each phase of building and operating an amateur-built airplane will be discussed along with the applicable regulations.

In general, we are very privileged to have only a minimum number of regulations that actually pertain to building and flying our amateur-built airplane. When a manufacturer plans to mass produce an airplane, they are required by FAR's to comply with design standards that are detailed in FAR Part 23. This regulation is very restrictive as to design, weight, speed, etc.. Amateur builders are not restricted by Part 23 or any other certification regulations. Basically, our only restriction is that we must construct and assemble the majority of the airplane. (Most airplane kit manufacturers actually voluntarily comply with the guidelines of Part 23.) Part 23 is titled "Airworthiness Standards: Normal, utility, acrobatic, and commuter category airplanes." As the builder of our own airplane, which will not be mass produced, we are limited only by our imagination and ingenuity. Of course, when we build our own airplane we are going to impose strict limitations and restrictions concerning quality of construction, materials used, etc.. We certainly want a safe, reliable airplane to fly and in which to carry our passengers.

Lets define the "experimental" category and see how it applies to our amateur- built airplane. To legally fly within the United States, we must have 4 documents on board; an airworthiness certificate, a registration certificate, a copy of the operating limitations, and the weight and balance for our airplane. Airworthiness certificates are classified under 2 categories according to FAR 21.175 - standard and special. Standard airworthiness certificates are issued for most production airplanes and they are usually classed under the normal category. We are interested in special airworthiness certificates that are further broken down into several additional categories of which one is "experimental." Experimental airworthiness certificates are issued for different purposes. These purposes are: (1) research and development, (2) to conduct flight tests to show compliance with airworthiness regulations, (3) for crew training, (4) for exhibition, (5) for air racing, (6) to conduct market surveys and sales demonstrations, (7) to operate an amateur-built airplane, and (8) to operate a kit-built aircraft that was assembled by a person from a kit manufactured by the holder of a production certificate for that kit.

We will primarily concern ourselves with purpose number 7, to operate an amateur-built airplane. Fully 95% of all airplanes that we build from a set of plans or from a kit will be certificated under the amateur-built classification. Purpose number 8, the kit-built classification, only applies to kit manufacturers who have certified their airplane under a type certificate termed a "primary category" aircraft. To date, only one kitplane manufacturer falls in this category to my knowledge. All other kitplane manufacturers sell their kits to be classed under the experimental certificate for the purpose of operating an amateur-built aircraft. FAR 21.191(g) is the heart of all regulations for the builder of an airplane. This regulation states the following: "Operating amateur-built aircraft. Operating an aircraft the major portion of which has been fabricated and assembled by persons who undertook the project solely for their own education or recreation." This regulation is the essence of custom aircraft building. The intent of the classification is very clear. Notice that one or more persons may build the airplane but they must build it only for their own enjoyment or education.

Ultralight airplanes fall under a different set of rules. If your completed airplane meets the requirements of FAR 103.1, it is classed as an ultralight vehicle and as such does not require an airworthiness certificate. Briefly, these requirements are: single pilot, used for recreation only, weighing less than 254 pounds empty weight, fuel capacity not to exceed 5 U.S. gallons, not capable of more than 55 knots in level flight, and a power-off stall speed not exceeding 24 knots. As you can readily observe, the majority of custom built airplanes exceed one or more of these criteria. Often, the owner of an ultralight airplane will choose to certificate their aircraft under the experimental category. This is usually done to comply with the regulations regarding weight, passengers, etc.. Note that the operator of an ultralight does not have to be a certificated pilot contrasted to the operator of an amateur-built airplane who, of course, must be a licensed pilot and the holder of a current medical certificate.

To continue our discussion of FAR 21.191(g), it is clear that to certificate an airplane under the experimental category for amateur-built operation, we must assemble and construct at least 51% of the airplane. The FAA emphasizes this restriction in at least two publications. The first is FAA Order 8130.2C, which is the airworthiness certification manual used by FAA Inspectors as a guide to inspect an airplane and to issue an airworthiness certificate. On page 116 of that guide, the following guidelines appear under the eligibility section. (1) "Amateur-built aircraft may be eligible for an experimental airworthiness certificate when the applicant presents satisfactory evidence that the aircraft was fabricated and assembled by an individual or group of individuals." This section goes on to state that the project must be undertaken for educational or recreational purposes and the FAA must find that the airplane complies with acceptable standards. Aircraft that are manufactured and assembled as a business for sale are not considered to be amateur-built. This statement appears within the Order: "NOTE: Amateur-built kit owner(s) will jeopardize eligibility for certification under FAR 21.191(g) if someone else builds the airplane." The applicant for amateur-built certification must sign a notarised form (FAA Form 8130-12), certifying the major portion was fabricated and assembled for educational or recreational purposes, and that evidence is available to support the statement. The second place the 51% rule is emphasized is in Advisory Circular 20-27D on page 5 under 7(b). This section simply emphasizes the major portion rule.

When you purchase an airplane kit from a manufacturer, the kit should be listed on the FAA listing of kits that have been evaluated to ensure that 51% of the building will be completed by the purchaser (this is commonly known as the "major portion" rule). I want to emphasize that the FAA in no way endorses any of these kits nor do they approve kit manufacturers. They simply evaluate the kits solely for the purpose of determining if an aircraft built from the kit will meet the major portion criteria. A listing of these kits is available from your local FAA office. I do not recommend purchasing a kit that is not on this listing unless you are prepared to prove to the FAA Inspector that the kit meets the proper criteria.

The FAA does not expect the builder to personally fabricate every part of the airplane. A number of items can be purchased and several tasks can be contracted commercially. FAA Advisory Circular 20-139 titled "Commercial Assistance During Construction of Amateur-Built Aircraft", provides a very detailed guide concerning what can be purchased complete and what can be contracted commercially. Engines, propellers, wheel and brake assemblies, and standard aircraft hardware are examples of items that may be purchased. Installation of avionics, painting an airplane, and upholstery items are examples of tasks that may be contracted. The bottom line of the entire discussion is that you must prove to the FAA Inspector who issues your airworthiness certificate that you have complied with FAR 21.191(g). Next month we will discuss the necessary documentation to present to the inspector to assure your compliance.

If you decide to allow someone else to build your airplane to be certificated as amateur-built, you will be required to license it under the experimental category for the purpose of exhibition. This category is much more restrictive than amateur-built. The purpose of this category is to allow the holder to exhibit their airplane at air shows, motion pictures, television filming, etc., and of course to fly to and from these productions. I will not spend time discussing this category since it is rarely used.

Now that I have discussed the general regulations concerning building your airplane, I will detail specific regulations as they apply to each phase of building, flying, and maintaining an amateur-built airplane. I would recommend that you obtain a copy of the regulations for your own reference. Several books are available that contain the FAR's along with computer discs containing all of the FAA regulations. The FAA also maintains a web site with all regulations. This site can be found at www.faa.gov.

(Visit "Helpful Links" on this web site for many links to the FAA)

Initial Building Phase

The first phase of construction is, of course, the building phase. I would highly recommend that before you begin your project you ask your local FAA office for their information packet that is available relating to amateur-built airplanes. Part of this packet is Advisory Circular 20-27D, that you will refer to regularly. Regarding regulations governing the first phase, we have discussed in detail FAR21.191(g). Another regulation, FAR 21.173, presents the eligibility for an airworthiness certificate. FAR 21.191 defines all purposes that are allowed for licensing under the experimental category including, of course, amateur-built. FAR 21.175 defines the classifications of airworthiness certificates. FAR 21.193 contains the information that must be submitted for an experimental certificate. Advisory Circular 20-27D presents this information much more completely. FAA Part 45 details the markings that are necessary for your aircraft with respect to what is required, size, location, etc.. FAR 45.23 is where we are told that we will display the word "experimental" in letters not less than 2 inches high nor more than 6 inches high near the entrance to the cabin or cockpit. FAR 45.29 provides us with the size of registration marks and specifically allows us, as owners of experimental aircraft, to use 3 inch high numbers and letters providing our maximum cruising speed is less than 180 knots. If our cruising speed is higher than 180 knots, then we are required to use 12 inch letters and numbers. An additional regulation applies if our airplane had an experimental certificate issued more than 30 years ago. This regulation allows us to use numbers and letters only 2 inches high. FAR45.22 specifies the rules as they apply to the older airplanes. Details of spacing, width, and other factors are discussed in this section.

Continuing the building stage, FAR 47.15 informs us about registration numbers. You may select an "N" number of your choice providing the number is currently not in use on another airplane. FAR 47.33 lists the information that must be submitted with your application for the "N" number. If you intend to fly your airplane at night or under Instrument Flight Rules, you are required to have specific equipment. The necessary equipment, including instruments, radios, etc., is outlined in FAR 91.205. This regulation also tells you what is needed for VFR flight during the day. FAR 91.207 outlines the requirements for emergency locator transmitters (ELT). The requirements for an ELT are basically the same for all airplanes, including amateur-built. It should be noted that if you remain within 50 nautical miles of your home airport and you are engaged in flight training, you are not required to have an ELT. Also, if you have a single place airplane you are not required to install an ELT.

Obviously, there are a number of other issues involved in the building phase.

Flight Testing

FAR 91.305 defines a flight test area. Basically, it states that you must conduct your flight testing over sparsely populated areas having light air traffic. FAR 91.319 provides a listing of operating limitations. As I mentioned, when your aircraft is inspected you will be given a copy of operating limitations. Usually, the inspector will issue Phase 1 and Phase 2 at the time of inspection providing you with 2 sets of operating limitations; flight testing and subsequent operation. The flight test area is defined within the Phase 1 limitations along with the required number of hours you must fly the aircraft. The primary restrictions regarding flight testing are: (1) no passengers, (2) day, VFR only, (3) no operation over congested areas, (4) you must advise ATC that you are experimental, and (5) the pilot must have the appropriate ratings. Of course, the general operating rules under FAR Part 91 are applicable. Phase 1 operating limitations have an expiration time of 12 months from date of issue. All flight testing must be completed within that time period or the aircraft must be reinspected. One of the restrictions, in FAR 91.319, that is interesting is that in order to have the Phase 1 restrictions lifted you must prove that the aircraft has no hazardous operating characteristics and that it is controllable throughout its normal range of speeds and maneuvers. The FAA has an Advisory Circular that is very helpful in providing guidelines for flight testing. This circular, Advisory Circular 90-89, is necessary to read prior to your first flight. Also, the EAA Flight Advisor program is highly recommended. The flight testing phase should be an enjoyable conclusion to your building experience and it will be if planned and executed properly.

Normal Operation of Your Amateur-Built

Once again, all of the general operating rules under FAR Part 91 apply to daily operations of your aircraft. In addition, the operating limitations presented under FAR 91.319 and as issued by the FAA Inspector at the time of inspection govern. After completion of Phase 1, you are then allowed to carry passengers and fly at night or IFR if so equipped. Phase 2 limitations do add some restrictions that merit discussion. First of all, you may not carry passengers or property for hire. Secondly, any major changes that are made to the airplane as defined by FAR 21.93 require inspection by the FAA prior to further flight. A minor change is defined as one that has no appreciable effect on the weight, balance, structure, or anything affecting the airworthiness. Examples of a major change would be a different horsepower engine, a different pitch propeller, a change in basic design, etc.. If a major change is made notify the FAA in writing providing the details of the change to ascertain whether or not an inspection will be required. Thirdly, you may not operate your airplane unless it has received a condition inspection (annual inspection). This will be discussed in the next section.

Maintaining Your Airplane

As I mentioned in the previous section, a condition inspection is required every 12 calendar months on amateur-built aircraft. This check is similar to an annual inspection required by FAR Part 43 on production airplanes. The Phase 2 Operating Limitations specifically refer to FAR Part 43, Appendix D, as the guide to performing this inspection. The inspection can be performed by any licensed A & P mechanic, an FAA Approved Repair Station, or by the builder of the airplane provided the builder obtains a "Repairman’s Certificate" from the FAA. FAA Advisory Circular 65-23A is available for information concerning application and privileges of this certificate. In short, the primary builder of the airplane is eligible to apply for this certificate which then permits inspection of the airplane and a logbook endorsement of the condition check. It is noteworthy that the primary builder must be one person. If a group of people builds an airplane, only one can be designated as the primary builder. In addition, the issuance of the repairman’s certificate only applies to the one airplane that has been built by the primary builder and no other airplane regardless of same type, etc..

Normal maintenance on an experimental airplane can be performed virtually by anyone regardless of credentials. Once again, this does not apply to the condition check previously discussed. You can perform maintenance items on the engine whether or not it is "certified". Once a certified engine is placed on an amateur-built aircraft and is operated, it no longer conforms to its type design. This means that the engine can no longer be placed on any aircraft other than an amateur-built until it has been inspected and found to meet its type design. It also must be found to be in a condition for safe operation "airworthy". Once again, common sense should rule. We do not want to overhaul an engine on our airplane unless we are equipped to do so with tools and proper knowledge.

I will point out that FAR Part 43 specifically states that the rules of that part do not apply to amateur-built airplanes. With that in mind, anyone can maintain the airplane. However, remember in our earlier discussion that Part 43, Appendix D was referenced in Phase 2 operating limitations presented to the builder at the time of inspection. It is referenced as a guide to be used in conducting condition inspections. That means Part 43, Appendix D does apply to the condition inspection because of this reference. The FAA has further clarified AD (Airworthiness Directives) as they apply to amateur-built airplanes. Airworthiness Directives cannot apply to any part on an amateur-built airplane unless that specific airplane is cited along with who should do the work and to what standards. The reason for this is because once an approved part is placed on an experimental airplane it is no longer considered an approved part. Again, let me emphasis that just because a regulation does not require an action it still may be prudent and within our best interest to conform to an AD note. We are striving to improve the safety record of this industry and in all cases we must act on the side of common sense and good practice.

Regulations Involving The Sale of Your Amateur-Built

There are few regulations governing a sale of your airplane. The airworthiness certificate is transferable with the airplane even though it is experimental. (FAR 21.179) The proper bill of sale and registration documents must be completed when you sell the airplane. Of particular interest is the fact that the new owner may maintain the newly purchased airplane, but may not perform the condition check. The repairman’s certificate is not transferred with the airplane. It remains with the original primary builder. That person legally may still perform the condition check if you can persuade them to do so. If you are purchasing a partially completed kit you need to obtain the proper documentation to ensure you will meet the major portion rule. FAA Advisory Circular 20-27D has the following warning: "CAUTION: Purchasers of partially completed kits should obtain all fabrication and assembly records from the previous owner(s). This may enable the builder who completes the aircraft to be eligible for amateur-built certification." Once again, a call to your FAA Inspector will prevent future problems. The time spent by the original builder is usually applied toward the total time required to build the airplane. Documentation is necessary.

Summary

The following table will provide a concise summary of Federal Aviation Regulations as they apply to amateur-built airplanes. Next month I will detail forms, documentation, etc., necessary to certificate your amateur-built aircraft along with an easy to use checklist.

Yes, if you are in your hangar, the 4th amendment of the constitution applys and you can tell them to leave. However, be warned, they can get your N number and write you a nasty letter giving you 10 days to present your aircraft and records for inspeciton. Failure to comply with this will result in suspension of your special airworthiness certificate(pink).

Its better to say OK, thanks, I have to go run some errands, I like to stay and talk, oh by the way do you have a busniess card? This way you know who they are....

1) if you are just a privite pilot , yhou can only do preventative maint. listed inpart 43 for the FARS..

If you built the aircraft(experimental) you can applly for a repairman certificate for that airplane and that airplane only to do maintenanve and inspection including the yearly condition inspection. Who better knows it than you...

IF you are not the builder, you need an A&P to do the iinspection and maintenance... The A&P can not delegate the work. IN the real world, owner do a lot of their own work and then get an A&P to do the condtion inspection...you need to be careful here to make sure you dont set the A&P up for a trap so be sure to tell him what ever you do...

WHen  the experimental is originally certified, all the paperwork and copies of the special airworthiness certificate and operaiton limiation and 3 view photos are put in a file at the local FSDO who has responsibility for that are....fact is a lot of experimental get sold and go to another area of the country.. the old folder can be forwarded to the new area, but generaly this is only done if the plane is stilll in phase 1 of test flying and you need to have a new assigend area to fly in... but most of the time the files are left in the old FSDO files...

My guess is you encounted a seasoned inspector and a new hire.. There are about a year of OJT stuff the newbie has to get thru and one of those things is a "
rampcheck"

The issue of folding the wing?? Even I am not sure on this one. If it is considered maintenance, then it would require a log entry... sounds silly dont it...I guess in an extreme situation, if you had no A&P and were not the builder, you might be able to get a letter from the FAA FSDO allowing you to fold and unfold the wing, however you would need "training from " an A&P" most likely.....THe feds are changing the rules all the time...

I can tell you this, there are no records of alterations or changes made to your plane so they dont know what what kind of instruments it has or what radios, and unnless hyou install 50" tractor tires, they dont even know what kind of tires or prop is on it....

ON a ramp check they looks for certain things. Pink special airworthiness certificate, operation limitations, placards required for experiemental aircraft, even a stupid compass card, maybe ask if you have an ELT if it is a 2 place or bigger plane...

Just do what you want, but be careful and if you are not sure aobut how to do something ,as someone, an A&P or another builders.... Ive seen a couple of planes now where red silicon was used on fuel line fitting and it got in the fuel system. so you need to be a little cautious in what you do....

Old retired FAA inspector....

\I saw one owner in Alaska chase two hot shot inspectors off his property with a [paddle!!! once.. one of the idiots got up on his new floats and ground gravel into the new paint....!!! IT was funny as hell, I had to go sort that all out for the office manager........it was a non issue.....

The early oil injection pumps on snow machines in Alaska had a metal drive gear and those would wear out and quit turning. YOu only found out after the engine seized!!

Rotax uses a nylon drive gear and there has been no further problems....I too removed my oil injection system for this reason..

There are already too many single point failure systems on these Avids and Kitfoxes....IF you loose your coolant, stick a fork in it, because you are done!! Rotax 503 dont have this issue..dont have the power the 582 has either....

582 has rotary drive shaft and if any part of that fails guess what? your done again!! stick another fork in it..

If the cable to the oil pump breaks you wont figure it out til it seizes....Hell it might seize anyway if you dont warm it up enough.....

If a person was doing a lot of cross countries, oil injection would be nice because when you land, you never really know how much fuel is left in the tank so you dont really know how much to mix and dump in unless you take collapsible fuel tank.

I am a firm believer in removing all the "single point failure" systems you can or add redundancy to the plane to make it more robust and reliable

I would venture to say that most use these kitfoxs and avids for local flying and so long cross countries are not the normal flight plan.

The RV in the back corner of the hangar is for that!!

Call FAA Registry and ask them. They are in OKC   405 954-3116 or 405 -954-3284 (?)   If owner failed to renew the registration, they hold the "N" number in suspension for 5 yrs then reassign it... Just call and ask. It might be as simple as the owner filling out an aircraft application for registration and mailing it along with $5 to the aircraft registry office in OKC.

This is  a common occurrence.0( Retired FSDO Inspector)..

IN the 60s-90s there Aerospace business on the west coast was going gangbuster, not so much now. I think a lot of that hardware was all over the place on the west coast for cheap.

I looked up Spencer Aircraft too after I made the post..in the 80s the ACS hardware section was identical to Spencer Aircraft Hardware catalog. I guess it is all changing with the times....

Sorry that engine run sheet was for a 503 Rotax but it probably slurps  fuel just as bad as a 582

Need a 3rd party person to go physically check them out, otherwise no way would I send any money over...I still think it could be legit salvage from wrecks....

When I  was in Alaska 10 yrs ago I  made friends with a petroleum engineer who designed the Matco refinery in North Pole, Alaska. I also maintained a PA-20 for one of the

employees at that refinery who was a fuel blender.  WHen oil  is heated and runup thro a cracking tower, fuel distillates come off at different temperatures. OUt ofa 43 gallon barrel of crude oil you only about about 15 gallons of high quality gasoline. Avgas base stocks are made from this. It is very stable and last for a few years in tight storage.

Car gas is a whole can of worms. The refinery takes the lower grades of gasolines and blends them.WHy? Because you will never get your engine started on like70 octane gas, so they blend in aeromatic at a fairly high volumn like40%.Now the engine will run but you still have the problem of starting the engine. So at the refinery they force butane and propane into the gasoline under high pressure. I dont know exactly how they do it but that is the stuff that allows your engine to start because your effective cranking compression ratio is very low and that cheap 70 octane gas will not light off any more than diesel would. sorta like watering down whiskey. IT is a tightly guarded secret and the petro companies will not release any  of this info. I have seen planes sit out  in hot sun with car gas in the tanks for 30 days and while they would crank over, they would not start.Drain that fuel and put infresh fuel and it would run. 

The other issue is octane. pure iso octane has an anti knock index of 100 and you would know this if you were awake in chemistry class in college. I helped several people in Alaska with issues trying to run car gas in their planes. Straight run avgas has an octane rating of about 70 so the easiest way to raise that is add Tetraethyl Lead to the gas. It only takes a small amount. Of course your kids will be born with 4 eyes and extra fingers so the EPA had laws passed in congress to outlaw its use. Problem in ,no one considered aircraft engines. So for the last 30 someodd years the EPA had not enforced avgas with lead in it , however a couple of years ago "friends of the earth" sued the EPA and said hey you EPA have had 30 yrs, you have to  quit allowing the use  of avgas in aircraft engines. So far no one has comeup with a suitable chemical to add to the fuel that will take the heat and pressure that a TSIO540J2BD Piper Najaho TUrgo Supercharged engine produces 45" MAP on takeoff.

The blender did help me determine that we only needed to add 10% 100 LL to unleaded car gas to get the antiknock index up to 100. Any more 100ll and you start having problems with lead buildup.

80/87  91/96  100/130/ were all avgases made from the same base stocks. The only difference was the amount of T.E.T.added.

80/87 had an average of .5 ML per gallon ofTET, 91/96 had 3 ml, 100/130 add 3.5 to4 ml per gallon. The petroleum companies and refueling sites had to have seperate handling facilitied for each grade of  fuel and since they were sellling less and less they settled on avgas 100 or 100LL. OK what does that mean? Well 100LL has 2.5 Ml ofTET lead and 10% tolulene(paint thinner) added a an octance booster. Thats why they call it low lead...It has a little less lead.

The biggest problem with the car  gas is the light distilates that are infused into teh gas under pressue evaporate easily and aircraft tanks are vented to atmosphere unlike your sealed car gas cap. So however you store you avgas, keep a tight lid on it.

I know lots of guys  in Alaska that run car gas + 25% avgas in 160 and 180- hp cubs without any  problem... is it legal?????probably not but it works.

On a certificated aircraft, the FARs require a fireproof ID plate attached to the airframe. Most pipers and champs had them screwed to the floor. SOme Beechcraft had them riveted to the by the  rear stablizer.

Later on the DEA had the FAA write a regulation to  add an ID information, Make,, model and s/n to be located near the rear most entrance door. Now this can be the same plate at the MAA plate but as I stated before, if you own a Cessna or Piper DONT DO IT. IF it gets lost it will cost you a lot of money to get a new one and tons of paperwork.

It is easier to just make a plate with the same info and place it by the door,

2) on aircraft that carry an Experimental Certificate, the regs still require an ID plate that shows the "manufacturer, the builder", the model and the s/n attached to the airframe. You could attach it to the outside of the airframe however once again it could easily fall or or get stolen so Id mount it inside like most do and then make a separate plate and attach by the door with "make model and s/n"

I need to get back to work. I feel like I am about to throw up  and that is because I feel like an FAA Inspector again...!!

I used to order all my  aircraft hardware from Spencer Aircraft in Seattle. Get this, Spencers catalog looks just like ACS and Spencers prices were way less.Now thats been 10 yrs and a lot can happen but its worth checking out.

I helped my brother in law get a 135 air taxi certificate back in 1989. He worked construction all his life and wanted to try something different.He now has a 180hp supercub, a Scout and a Cessna 182 and 100% of  his  work it finding and helping to dart or net gun animals so they can be collared and studied. His cub can stay up for 9hr! before it needs fuel. He has one of those seat special made with a high back and flared sides. He tracks moose, bear, sheep, and even does lots of work in Montanana and  daho for their fish and game tracking animals for capture. He knows a lot about all the different animals and before he took up flying was a hard core trapper and hunter. Anyway he has ove 14,000 hours now doing this kind of work. I could not stand to sit in a super cub that long but like he told me once, "its easier than bucking form boards and pouring concrete".

some people used to get the actuall MAA or manufactures data plate and pop rivet it on theoutside of theplane sometimes tothe  fabric!!! bad idea. Ifit is lost,it isa big hassled to get a new one. A few years ago piper wanted all kinds of affidavits and $450 for a new Aircraft ID plate..... Cessna was worse. They would only issue a new ID plate if the plane was stock, NO STCs or Alterations of any kind. And this had to be verified by a Cessna Service Center,,,

Experimental are required to have an ID plate in the plane with teh same info, make model and S/N

The exterior markings Ive seen them painted on, written on with a sharpie!Just as long as it has make, model and S/N near the door entrance your good to go...

An "Aircraft Identification Data Plate" is the plate that the FAA and US Drug Enforcement Agency mandated back in the mid 1980s that duplicates some of an aircraft’s data plate information on the outside of the aircraft, allowing DEA agents to quickly identify aircraft. Is this additional data plate still required and can you cite the regulation requiring it?

Answer
Yes, the external identification plate is still required. This is called out in 14 CFR 45.11(d), which states in pertinent part:

"The model designation and builder's serial number must be legible to a person on the ground and must be located either adjacent to and aft of the rear-most entrance door or on the fuselage near the tail surfaces. The model designation and builder's serial number must be displayed in such a manner that they are not likely to be defaced or removed during normal service."

This regulation applies to those aircraft manufactured before 7 March, 1988 that do not have their manufacturer data plate on the exterior of the aircraft.

Note that this external identification is not required to be on a fireproof plate. (The manufacturer data plate takes care of that requirement.) It only needs to be legible to a person on the ground and must be located as specified. Also, this identification should not be on an access door or cover, or anywhere where it would be removed or defaced during normal service. This external ID can be painted on, put on with a decal, or in any manner that is legible.

This requirement came out because customs wanted it years ago to ID an aircraft easily to catch drug runners. It is supposed to be near the entrance or door of the plane. Make, Model and S/N is all that is required if I remember. You can look up the reg and double check. Personally I always thought it  was usless because if you are a drug runner, all you have to do is find a plane of the same make and model and use their s/n...it was A STUPID knee jerk reaction....IF we get them back to the US , we get 10000 each.....sounds interesting but  too many bullets flyig around down there for me....

A lot of supercub seats in alaska have that  added. with long range tanks ina cub yuou canstay up for  6-8 hours non stop and so the flared sides and higher bak on the seat help.

Still after 2 hours in a supper cub I always wanted to roll inverted and hang by the straps for a while....!!

Check these out... craigslist London and Craigslist Aberdeen. Type in "rotax 582" or just Rotax

There are a couple of nice looking 582s and some 912s and914s....is it a scam??? More likely these are salvage engines from wrecks....prices are too bad but not sure if you pay duty  on shipping them to the states....the seller offered FEDEX shipping which is good....take a look and post back what you think... blue head 582 are hard to find in the US it seems...

  Document.rtfIm looking to buy a 582 for my KF2 project. Ive read the blue head is less prone to cold seizure due to an improved coolant system,but the only one I can find is a new one for $5600 less gearbox and starter but has exhaust and carbs...from CPS.
The other option is grey head. There are several used for sale on barnstormers.. One for 3000 with no carbs, starter, gearbox or exhaust, but overhauled.
I have a gearbox and a starter, but the only carbs I have are 2 503 carb that would have to be rejeted for ab0ut $160 for both. I can keep looking just not sure if I should hold out for the blue head. It is that much better engine>??
Thanks for any advice.... Mark