jared payne

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Posts posted by jared payne


  1. Hi Jared!

    I don't mind you asking but I have a hard time to remember... and prices change both with time and between countries...
    Oratex always appears very expensive as it is an "all in one" solution. A roll of traditional fabric is cheap while a roll of Oratex is in the "nice try, I'll call someone else" category. So when comparing don't forget all the other stuff like that you need for traditional methods (primers, UV, multiple layers of paint and finishing + the cost of having it done if you can't do the paint job yourself..). 

    On my blog there is an article http://avidsimonini.blogspot.fr/2016/01/how-much-oratex-do-i-need.html about the amount of material needed. Based on that you can check with your local Oratex supplier and get an up to date estimation of the cost.

    As the process is perfectly "clean" and with nor smell or dust I did smaller parts in my office. If it is cold outside you can work with closed doors and the heat on as there are no nasty or inflammable evaporation, and if it is warm you can work outside...

    Oratex is very easy to work with. While the finish is very good the result is not as perfect as when you come out of the paint box. I have the impression that it ages well (see Oratex stress testing post on my blog http://avidsimonini.blogspot.fr/2011/09/side-note-stress-testing-oratex-ul-600.html).

    If you value your time this is also an argument, you can easily cover both wings (from skeleton to ready to bolt on the plane) over a weekend.  

    I hope this helps - even if I didn't answer your question directly...

     

    Hi Jared!

    I don't mind you asking but I have a hard time to remember... and prices change both with time and between countries...
    Oratex always appears very expensive as it is an "all in one" solution. A roll of traditional fabric is cheap while a roll of Oratex is in the "nice try, I'll call someone else" category. So when comparing don't forget all the other stuff like that you need for traditional methods (primers, UV, multiple layers of paint and finishing + the cost of having it done if you can't do the paint job yourself..). 

    On my blog there is an article http://avidsimonini.blogspot.fr/2016/01/how-much-oratex-do-i-need.html about the amount of material needed. Based on that you can check with your local Oratex supplier and get an up to date estimation of the cost.

    As the process is perfectly "clean" and with nor smell or dust I did smaller parts in my office. If it is cold outside you can work with closed doors and the heat on as there are no nasty or inflammable evaporation, and if it is warm you can work outside...

    Oratex is very easy to work with. While the finish is very good the result is not as perfect as when you come out of the paint box. I have the impression that it ages well (see Oratex stress testing post on my blog http://avidsimonini.blogspot.fr/2011/09/side-note-stress-testing-oratex-ul-600.html).

    If you value your time this is also an argument, you can easily cover both wings (from skeleton to ready to bolt on the plane) over a weekend.  

    I hope this helps - even if I didn't answer your question directly...

     

    Hi Fred thanks for the reply. I really enjoy your videos. I think I may try the Oratex product, if anything  I will shave some weight. Thank you Thank you. I hope they can send me a color chart. cheers


  2. I have been looking and asking for imfo and pictures about this proses,Would like to do this to my Mk4 but do not know where to cut . Any help would be great thanks;) 


  3. Got that sled all ripped apart... and that pesky clutch off!  

    Now for the fun part!  

    With the right tool the clutch came off in about 30 seconds. I am waiting on my c box from Teal with adapter hopefully this week. Working on cowling mockup and engine mounts to keep me busy. Ordered the radiator yesterday, and will order prop this week. Need to decide on the tires I want, the biggest for the buck 6in rim. 

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  4. I used Oratex 600UL when rebuilding my Model C. Great to work with, good result. I did some stress tests before deciding to use it. If you go to my blog and filter the posts on Oratex you’ll find more info. I did some timelaps when covering parts of the plane that you can see on my YouTube channel.

    Oratex 600 is certified for aircrafts up to 600 kg and 6000 for aircrafts up to, wéll you get the picture... I used 600 except for the landing gear where I used 6000. Probably overkill but as I had some 6000 samples...

    If you don't mind me asking what did it cost to cover you c model in Oratex?


  5. Jared, keep after it.  That is very promising and if you can develop a proven set up that more of less bolts on to the standard gear mounts, you will have a lot of folks interested.

    If you look at the Beringer gear, they have a brace leg that runs from the axle area back to the fuselage (probably to a collector point where the lift strut attaches).  If I remember right, they have ball ends on this brace.  I think you will find this to be essential to take the horizontal loads.

    I under stand what you are saying is when landing and braking the gear could go aft? To do what Beringer does I would have to omit the rear leg , or it would bind. Again I am amazed how much lateral force the groove gear can take with a little clamp holding it to the fuse, think of that load.:rolleyes:


  6. The shocks cost $249 each and weigh 7.8 pounds the hole gear weigh about 45lbs.I plane on building litter ones after testing to see what I can shave and get away with

    So, for somewhere around $800 or less, you could build your own set, not counting wheels, etc. - Add on another $700 for labor and profit and sell for $1500? - Sounds good.  EDMO

    Needs testing. 

    1 person likes this

  7. Setting it back farther might save some cowl rework time too?

    exactly. in length but not height . Received motor mount material and exhaust material today. am going to catch you:BC: Was thinking of naming my wife's plane  shock and awe. Awe for when it breaks.   

    1 person likes this

  8. I would move the back of the motor and leave the prop centered in the cowling cut out. Do the avids fly tail down our level? Can somebody check the prop flange to fire wall with either 582 912 or soob. This is a measurement I should have taken before selling my 582. To night I sat the motor in the rough location, it looks like if I cut two tubes out of the way and reroute I could move the motor back 3.5 inches is this worth 5 hrs work? I know my time is not worth shit but I do want to be done and flying someday, you guys are great.

    IMO, The farther back you can get that engine is worth the trouble with a short fuselage - You are going to have a problem getting your CG back anyway.  My Soob is so close to the firewall that I need to put a dent in the firewall to get the alternator belt on.  Sorry, I am not able to go measure anything for you.  The Soob is probably different than yours will be with the C-drive on it anyway.   EDMO

    I would lengthen the fuse if I could find out where to cut. It looks like a lot of work with the rudder cables replace  elevator trim cable  replace and realigning the elevator pushrod tube.


  9. I would move the back of the motor and leave the prop centered in the cowling cut out. Do the avids fly tail down our level? Can somebody check the prop flange to fire wall with either 582 912 or soob. This is a measurement I should have taken before selling my 582. To night I sat the motor in the rough location, it looks like if I cut two tubes out of the way and reroute I could move the motor back 3.5 inches is this worth 5 hrs work? I know my time is not worth shit but I do want to be done and flying someday, you guys are great.


  10. I am putting in a Yamaha into my Mk4. I understand you want 3-4 degrees to port , but what about up or down? Where is the water line on a mk4? Fire wall is guite a bit diff than bottom of fuse


  11. Working on motor mount for Yamaha, I think Teal said level prop flange with fire wall, what should I use for the  water line? Fire wall and door sill / elevator are different. I  am going with 3 degree to the port.

    my kf5 firewall is parallel to the fuse.

    I went 4 deg left and zero up/down (level using cyl head top)

    But I wont tell you how great it is until I fly it!   Lol!

    Bottom of fuse is a lot different than fire wall. When I level below seat fuse the fire wall is about 1 in out of plumb, Maybe go with the average?:BC:


  12. Working on motor mount for Yamaha, I think Teal said level prop flange with fire wall, what should I use for the  water line? Fire wall and door sill / elevator are different. I  am going with 3 degree to the port.


  13. Rock Crawler, Nice work may as well go a bit further and stretch it.

    Where would you make the cuts lots of angles


  14. How did you get the primary drive off of the rx1 ? I tried the water method and a 4in 3 jaw puller no luck , what is the secrete? I was thinking of renting a bigger puller. 


  15. Copro's airbox (and entire fwf) is Steve Henry's.

    For me I used .75x.058 tube for my mount (approx 16ft, no lengths greater that 2ft).  The side rails are 1.5"

    Copros  air box ? did Steve make that or is that a store? Looks nice and lite.