whizzers

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Posts posted by whizzers


  1. Dunno. All the Avids I have (five) had axles made from 3/4 OD x 3/8 ID round stock. Why?... because that's what Avid furnished. I can't address what Kitfox might have done, and the axles that I had which were pre-made to bolt onto gear such as the Grove gear I doubt would satisfactorily bolt to the back plate on stock Avid gear.

    IF you're a welder and machinist you can make anything fit.

     


  2. I have a number of loose sets but:

    1. The length may vary with the wheel and spacers. What overall length do you need?

    2. The mounting holes may not be in the right place, depending on who drilled them.

    3. They aren't hard to make, Aircraft spruce has 3/4 x 3/8 tubing, and any machine shop can thread them. Castle nuts can be had from      an auto parts store and faced to the correct thickness.

     

    Bob

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  3. The first Avid I bought was an early speedwing. Inside the fuselage running from the seat back to the tail was a length of 2 inch or so PVC pipe, with a pulley at each end. Inside the pipe was a lead slug about ten inches long threaded on to a continuous loop of sash cord which ran around the pulleys  By working the sash cord you could move the slug as far forward as the seat back and as far aft as the leading edge of the elevator. I have no idea how well it worked because the A&I who did the return to service on the airplane took it out, but I did see it written up in some Avid History I have.

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  4. I bought this as a project with the intention of finishing it, but it isn't gonna happen, so I want to move it on.

    *Avid unfinished kit. Conventional gear only

    *Fuselage stretched 16 inches, workmanship good

    *Gear attached points reinforced

    *Heavy Hauler wings

    *MetaLlized leading edge

    Kitfox type rib tails

    *Nav/Strobe lights

    *Cowling for Jabiru or Rotax

    Located Lewistown Pa

    First $2500 takes it.

    717 363 7 five five two

    Bob

     

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  5. I have the following KF I stuff. If anybody wants any of it FREE, call or e mail me. Most of it doesn't weigh much, but size makes shipping prohibitive.

    I'm tired moving this stuff around, and if it isn't gone by Oct 31, it goes to recycling. You pay shipping or pick up.

    Rudder

     

    Elevator push rod.

    In cowl fuel tank

    717 363 seven five five two

     

     

     


  6. have a set in central pa.  Make an offer Shipping may be costly.

    Also have turtle deck, engine mount, horiz stab, elevator, and rudder. Control sticks Mixer. pushrods,

    717 363 seven five five two

     

    Bob McCaa


  7. I got out to the airport today. I took a coup[le of pictures, but just now I am having computer issues and can't get them out of the camera.

    I compared the KF pedals to a set of Avid "B" model pedals I have. They are cable brake pedals.

    Here is what I found:

    1. The Avid lower tubes are 3/8 inch longer than the KF tubes. .18 7/8 vs:: 18 1/2 inches

    2. The KF pedals are 1/4 inch taller from the bottom of the bottom tube to the top of the rudder pedal: 7" vs:: 6 3/4

    3. The height to the top of the brake pedal is 9 1/2 in KF vs 9 3/4 inch Avid.

    4 The KF pedals are 1/4 inch wider outside pedal to pedal than the Avid

    5. i  put the KF pedals into an Avid "C" airframe I have and I did not see any interference issues. They fit onto the mounting pads but you will have to drill new holes in something. In the worst case scenario, you might have to make the mounting pads a bit wider, or fabricate new pivots. I do not know if this is a difference between KF and Avid, or the fact that the holes in your Avid are not necessarily in the same place as the holes in my Avid. AS I mentioned, I do not know the condition of the brake master cylinders. If you need more info, call me or e mail me. I will get a shipping quote Monday.

    whizzers@verizon.net

    717 363 7 five five two

    Bob McCaa

     

     

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  8. I don't have the "B Avid pedals handy. When I go out to the airport tomorrow I'll grab them and take some photos for comparison.

    Compared with the "C' model pedals, the horizontal tube on the KF is 1/4 inch shorter than the Avid. The KF pedals are about 1/2 inch taller than the Avid.

    I could for sure make them work, but you might have to fabricate or modify brackets. I doubt they will bolt right up.

    The brake pedal geometry is definitely better on the KF. I do not know the condition of the cylinders. They appear to be old Matco, but they are not marked.

     

    50 bucks plus shipping.

     

    Bob McCaa

     

     


  9. I have the following KF1 parts. Cowl Tank; Rudder pedals w/ hydraulic brake cylinders.; Control quadrant back to and including the mixer. Doors; Turtle deck; some ribs;Engine mount with plate. Fiberglass cowling (repairable) Horiz stab and elevator. Rudder.

    Avid B model sticks and rudder pedals (cable brake set up) Set of radiators for a "C" model. Reasonable offer for any of it.

    I still have the "C" model speedwing airframe. $2500. I am in the process of finishing up the current project. When it is done, HANGAR PURGE!!!.

    OUT GOES EVERYTHING.

    Bob McCaa 717 363 7 five five two


  10. Bob, can you post some pictures of the rear spar carry through area?  Also, the diameter of the top tube of the seat truss.  Trying to figure if it is a MK IV fuselage.  Any idea what the N # was originally on that fuselage? Again, trying to figure out what model it actually was.   JImChuk

    Front truss top rail measures .625. Top of seat back is .500. There is a metal plate welded in the rear carry through both front and back. Looks to be about 2 inches by three inches. The rudder pedals have a provision for a push-pull rod to the nose gear.

    Something I found, the horiz stab was not off this fuselage. It is set up for the offset rudder, which this does not have. It will take a bit of hot work in that ares to resolve.

     

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  11. This is an assemblage of parts I have collected in the process of rebuilding several Avids. The fuselage is a later model, as it has provisions for a nosewheel. I do not know the history, nor is there paperwork.

    The wings are speedwings, with heavy walled tubing. Everything needs a good cleaning and inspection, but there is enough there to assemble an airplane. One wingtip needs repair. I have the pieces, I just didn't do it as I was considering extending the wings. There will need to be some cutting and fitting done at the horiz stab, and a new set of "v" struts made. That's all the major stuff. There is an engine mount and a rudder. I have the controls. Matco wheels and brakes.

    It is on conventional gear.  I do not have the nose gear hardware. Everything firewall back, $2500. I have too many projects and not nearly enough time to finish them. Time to thin the herd. This is still available as of May 20. I already have two flying Avids, a third about 95% done, and a stretched fuselage heavy hauler waiting to be built. If somebody doesn't get this, my daughter will scrap it when she cleans out my estate.

    Bob McCaa

    Lewistown Pa.  (Aircraft at KRVL)

    717 363 7552

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  12. Ed;

    Yes, Thanks.

    Actually they are die springs from McMaster Carr. 9584K98. They are six inches long, and will compress to 3 inches. McMaster also lists an eight inch spring. I have the numbers for the Ski-Doo springs. 503190854.  They are readily available for about $50 each. I also kept the dimensions for the spring struts, and can make a replacement set without taking the gear back off the plane. I only need to make the spring carriers. Two bolts on each side changes them.

    Incidentally, the Super Cub only has 3 1/2 inches of travel. Measured it myself.

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  13.  

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    Update on the gear. One possible fix for existing gear. I had two yokes made similar to the yoke on a universal joint. They were made out of 1 1/4 cold rolled square stock. I threaded them 3/4-16 inside, and turned that end round to give 3/8 inch wall thickness. The fork end I milled out 7/8 inch wide to provide +1/8  wall thickness, and drilled that 1/4 inch.

    I then made new longer axles, but threaded the inboard end to give a tight fit on the thread. The fork was threaded on, then drilled and pinned. I had to make new lower spring strut rods since they are shorter than original. The only issue I had was that the axle end of the spring rod has to be canted a bit to fit to the existing cabane. That and the 3/4 inch tubing AirSpruce provided won't accept a 3/4 inch wheel bearing without polishing it first.

    The top (spring) end of the inner rod should be doubled internally to avoid the hole tearing out. I saw that happen on a Super Cub clone.

    I put the gear back on the plane, but have not tried it yet.

    The other possible fix is to weld tabs to the existing axle tubes. I will try that next.

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  14. Update on the gear. One possible fix for existing gear. I had two yokes made similar to the yoke on a universal joint. They were made out of 1 1/4 cold rolled square stock. I threaded them 3/4-16 inside, and turned that end round to give 3/8 inch wall thickness. The fork end I milled out 7/8 inch wide to provide +1/8  wall thickness, and drilled that 1/4 inch.

    I then made new longer axles, but threaded the inboard end to give a tight fit on the thread. The fork was threaded on, then drilled and pinned. I had to make new lower spring strut rods since they are shorter than original. The only issue I had was that the axle end of the spring rod has to be canted a bit to fit to the existing cabane. That and the 3/4 inch tubing AirSpruce provided won't accept a 3/4 inch wheel bearing without polishing it first.

    The top (spring) end of the inner rod should be doubled internally to avoid the hole tearing out. I saw that happen on a Super Cub clone.

    I put the gear back on the plane, but have not tried it yet.

    The other possible fix is to weld tabs to the existing axle tubes. I will try that next.

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    1 person likes this