fusionfab

crap now that I think of it, that may be my case also. I'll take a much closer look on top and bottom of wing. But then again if that's the case I won't need to remove fibreglass to expose the tank for installing sight tubes. Correct? 

I am going to be installing fuel level indicators on my tanks (clear tube style). However the previous owner fiberglassed the butt rib on the wings. 

So my question is, are the butt ribs on the wings and the butt ribs on the fuse the exact same cutouts? I need to get through the fibreglass and remove as much of it as I can to expose the tank. 

oh no worries lostman. I appreciate the help and am sorry for the loss. I've come to the decision, after looking for anything that can be sparred or moved won't be happening. My only option is to search for a smaller or at least lower profile battery and modify the mount to position it aft another 8-10" which should bring my CQ to mid 13 for min weight and low to mid 14 for max weight. 

 

Yes, tail raised level front to back and tires shimmed so level side to side. Plumbbob measures 1.5" from center axle and 144.5 from rear tail wheel plumb bob 

 

Picked up the scale at the farm/Ag store and have to completely start over. The previous weight I got of 679.5lbs is out the door. The weight I got from this scale is 722 lbs. 

At first I was concerned because the previous owners empty weight was 675. But, the first scale I used gives a much lighter weight when its not dispersed evenly across the platform. Weighed a 90 lb dumbbell (I knew I'd eventually find a use for it) standing it up and gives me a 20-25 lb lighter reading. Todays large digital scale measured the dumbbell at 89.8 no matter how I positioned it. So sadly I am confident that I now have correct numbers and she ACTUALLY weighs 722 lbs. 

Meaning my new numbers are 

Empty -11.20

Min. -12.21

Max -12.91

So now what...

Yes sorry the wings are completely empty. By near dry I mean just a slight amount in AUX tank. Maybe 1/8 gallon. 

Lostman - do you know your CG numbers off hand? 

I went to do WG again today but the scale went outta whack on me where it would return to zero and start at either above or below zero even after redialing. My local farm store has a heavy duty digital one that'll I'll pick up in the next couple days. 

I ran her near dry today so I'll do it with the slight Amount of fuel in it, and I'll also need to add a battery bracket in the tail that I forgot I still need. 

ok should I weigh all the baggage and subtract that in fuel? 

So I should get pen to paper and figure out how much weight I need to add to the tail? I won't be able to move the battery back and farther but I'm going to do a second WB tonight to double check all numbers. 

Sorry I should have mentioned that it is a Subaru EA81, single carb custom intake manifold for the fwf. 

There is also 10lbs of lead in the tail that I was hoping to replace with a small access door and survival kit as mentioned on here previously. 

I haven't weighed the battery but it is much more than 15lbs and is located about 24" ahead of the tail. 

I didn't use the 170lb number I just did actual weights of 205/135.

So I did the W&B lastnight for the first time owning the plane. It's an MKIV #1017D. 

I have the document from its previous weights and used to be 675.5 

changes I've made - exhaust, cooling system, single carb and manifold, proper cowling. Quart of paint.

her new weight lastnight was 679.5. However I added a gallon to each wing and ran it about 10 minutes. So am I to remove ALL fuel? 

The new limits I came up with are 

EMPTY (<2 gallons fuel) - 11.71"

1 pilot +5 gallons -12.78"

Pilot/Passenger/22.4 gallons -13.36"

any thoughts on these numbers and adjustments I should make to get optimal performance? 

Yeah she's a TD but not sure if that's why rear is running richer. Going to go through those plug colour charts 

Here's the manifold, after I finished it I had it leak tested and the flanges and carb surface machined

Yeah I had custom made this one because the stock one wouldn't fit with starter location. so this one is all aluminum and 1-3/8" ID and all welds ground smooth internally. But it just feeds the two sides, not each individually. I'll attach a pic. 

I checked WESTACH site and under their troubleshooting they have the Gauge resistance should read between 8-20 ohms and the needle should move when doing this. I checked both sides on gauge and both read 9 ohms but needles don't move when doing this. The thermocouples should read around 2.5 ohms. Both bounce between 2 and 3 ohms after checking. I am running out of options aside from the needles not moving on gauge when checking their resistance.

Just tried moving the probes and they are pretty much dead even with each other. at 3000 rpm directly at the probes the pipe measures 450-465F degrees from the infrared thermo. Starting think now the gauge is to blame. Also by the pulling the plugs after each running, the front passenger side is clear and lightly brown, and the rear passenger side is lightly black/carbon. So going to maybe try adjusting the valves...again and see. Trying to eliminate all options before either calling Westach or ordering a new gauge.

Yes, the side I am having issues with is in fact lower on the pipe/further from the head by about 1-1/2 to 2". I just went and picked up another thermometer and each side while at 1000rpm idle is heating up relatively close. The pipe temp, and measured in similar locations are only differing about 30F degrees from each other and are alternating up and down. Brought up to 3000 rpm for a few seconds and both pipes equally were around the 475F mark steady and equally rising before idling down, differing only 5-15F degrees 

But still confused as to why the tach will only pick up the one side, even after switching sides on the tach, so I will try removing one of the probes, tig welding the hole closed and try to match them. 

I did in fact notice that if I moved the laser from the thermo down even a few inches on the pipe, the temp would drop over 100 degrees. My guess (lostman)just as you suggested, that may be the issue. I will tinker with that this afternoon an try and get the probes equal distance from the heads. 

Thanks again everyone. 

with the acetylene you just turn the gas on without igniting and place the torch, to start, by the air filter. If carb isn't delivering enough fuel you'll hear the idle smooth right out and run even. It's what I do for multiple carb applications if the engine is running rough. Place it by each carbs intake side and it'll change the idle when you've located the carb not delivering fuel. 

It also works for vaccuum leaks to move the torch around the intake manifold and the engine wound will change if you've passed it by a leak. 

Now, my engine doesn't sound rough at all and runs smoothly but going to see if temps go up on the gauge when I move the torch around. We'll see

I'm hoping it's a gauge problem. The lowest temp is 800F and wasn't moving. I tried unplugging the side that's reading and still nothing. 

im also going to try a trick with the acetylene and see if it changes.

maybe one side is hogging the fuel?

Thanks for the advice guys. Right now my laser thermometer is still Packed somewhere from moving but my mechanic is going to bring one over this weekend. 

Both sides, to the touch are hot beyond being able to touch. The side thats not reading a temp I still had to wait a while before removing the probe (as I look at the burn on my hand). 

The gauge I am using is a westach. I'm going to look at the plugs closer tomorrow to see their colour. I'll also do as suggested with revving up higher. If everything checks out with the laser thermometerer etc then I'll look at trying another gauge. Feels like I'm so close to getting her in the air, yet so far. I explained everything over phone with mechanic and he believes it's taking a while to get that reading because his tests with compression and vacuum etc all looked perfect. 

Thans again everyone I'll keep posting with what happens

yeah I first swapped probes at the gage and it just read properly on the other needle indicating that both sides of the gage worked. I then switched probes to the opposite side and the same side that was reading still read the same with the other probe. 

So am I left to believe the engine perhspd is starving on the one side for fuel but when I remove each plug wire individually the sound and idle changes the exact same when done to each of the 4 

Hey all, just looking for some input on the following. 

Installed newly rebuilt EA81 with custom manifold and single weber carb. Completed everything and an auto mechanic tuned carb and did 37 degrees advanced timing. Everything sounds great and running smooth. All 4 cylinders firing properly. Connect EGT sensors today and pilot side heats up to 1000 but passenger side not indicating. Idled for 5 minutes and throttled up to 2200rpm for 2 minutes and still nothing. 

Ive swamped sensors and sides of the gauge and those work properly. 

Any advice? 

oh yes I don't mean to downplay it, it's been a lot of work. The plane came with an EA81 with dual carb setup but apparently it had issues. I addressed a variety of issues with it and noticed several things that didn't sit well with me. I wasn't provided any documentation for the engine when I bought it but I had another crate engine that was completely rebuilt and came with supporting documents for the work provided so i switched to that one and am happy I did. 

When I was registering the plane with transport Canada as a Basic Ultralight they didn't request anything and apparently in this category no inspections are required. Only if I choose to register as Advanced Ultralight which would still need a statement of conformity from the manufacturer which wasn't going to happen. 

Oh okay I didn't know about the passenger not being allowed during testing. Again thanks for all the help guys.

she did require a lot more work than anticipated. The seller stated "paint and some engine work". But overall it needed a lot more, an entirely new engine, carb setup, cooling system oil system, exhaust, all new wiring, cowling, paint, glass, some fabric repairs, brakes tires and tube and probably more that I am forgetting. 

Thank you all for the help, and so quickly too. I'm aware the numbers right now are merely guidelines. Each bird is different but just needed someone to start. 

the instructor who will be testing it is the one that'll be teaching me on it. I just wasn't sure if he'd test on his own or we just start everything together. I guess he'd have that answer for me.

nonetheless I just needed somewhere to start and appreciate yours guys help. 

Cheers

Hey everyone,

I have completed (finally) the resto of my Avid MK4 and will be starting my taildragger training in it soon. So I am just in search of some flight/performance specs. 

In search of air speeds for;

Rotation, best angle of climb, best glide, best rate of climb, and maneuvering speed. 

Ive located a couple of the specs but they're based on a 582. Mine is equipped with a newly rebuilt EA81 conversion and single weber carb. 

Any input is much appreciated.

Here's a before/after pic