Step 2, Build Magnum!!

201 posts in this topic

Posted

Laurent,

 

Great safety idea, hope the rod ends last my lifetime ;))   We used them on sprint cars back years ago, they are pretty tough as long as they are maintained. A few washers for peace of mind won't hurt!

 

Barry

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Posted (edited)

Today I took the fuselage off the rotisserie and set it on the saw horses so I could mount the horizontal stabilizer and rudder. I made the spacer block for the horizontal front mounting bolt. Then drilled holes in the adjusters for the rudder cables.  Checked my 25 degrees of movement for rudder control. Then started to make and run the rudder cables.  I also found out the factory welded my rudder trim tab solid to the rudder, so I have some cutting and welding to do there.

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by Barry Cole

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Posted

Looks great...

 

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Posted

Today I installed the elevator and linkage. Not happy with the position of the control sticks as related to elevator position, seems the only fix is to shorten the length of the push pull tube unless I am missing something? The stick is way to forward especially when pushing nose down attitude. I also checked the elevator for number degrees of up and down required by the manual. Then I installed the header tanks.

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Posted

Just out of curiosity, are you going to balance the rudder and elevators on your Magnum? My Avid has no provision for that....yours can easily accommodate counterweights

Cheers, Laurent

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Posted

Just out of curiosity, are you going to balance the rudder and elevators on your Magnum? My Avid has no provision for that....yours can easily accommodate counterweights

Cheers, Laurent

Yes, in fact I did it last night! I used lead shot and silicone caulk.

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Posted

Yesterday I installed the baggage door, brake lines and balanced the elevator.

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Posted

Looks great, simple and effectif. 

 

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Posted

Maybe you did it and I didn't notice, but on the Avid I rebuilt, I installed a parking brake into the brake lines.  I will do it on the next plane as well.  Works nice.  JImChuk  

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gerdes-Brake-Distribution-Valve-Model-A-850-10-for-Piper-or-Homebuilt-Aircraft/152012254828?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

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Posted

No, I didn't install a parking brake, and I may regret it later.  My plan is to keep this as simple as possible saving as much weight as possible. Hopefully I can find a couple big rocks wherever I land to use for wheel chocks !!!

Cool parking brake though!

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Posted

I'm sure it only added 1/2 a lb or less, but it does add up.  What's the old saying? even a ton of feathers weights 2000 lbs.  :)JImChuk

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Posted

Good one! Also, take care of the ounces and the pounds take care of themselves!!!

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Posted

Day before yesterday, I ran the Avid up into the front yard to wash is up.  It's a bit of a slope, and it sure was nice to be able to apply the parking brake so it didn't start to roll away on me like it used to when I got out.  I also use it if I want to leave it idle to warm up a bit.  I guess some ounces are worth more than others.  :-)  JImChuk

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Posted

Well, I have been starting on the wings, I am waiting on my landing gear before I can get much further with the fuselage.  I have made the false ribs to go where the tip tanks would have went (previous owner was going to install) and I am waiting for my tubing to come in to finish that.  Going to take a break for a while, my daughter is getting married this weekend! All for now.

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Posted

Hey Barry, is this a fibreglass tank? Ethanol safe?....I am operating on a fibreglass tank and it's getting hard to find the "good" ethanol free stuff. Wish I had an other tank.

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Posted

Yes, these are all fiberglass. What tank do you need? I will be selling my tip tanks, but they are 5 gallons. 

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Posted

I am looking for an ethanol safe wing tank....unfortunately, the fibreglass tanks dissolve with the ethanol......rotomolded plastic tanks are ethanol safe but there seems to be none out there for the Avid wing....

Cheers

If I were you I would think about ethanol before closing your wing, even if you install a lycoming....there is a push to get rid of Avgas in the near future and if you have a mogas converted lycoming , then if necessary you can also fuel up at the car gas station...ethanol problem...

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Posted

There are some resins that will work with ethanol, so you could make your own tanks, but most folks don't want to.  When I rebuild mine I'll make one if the existing tanks isn't in good shape.

Mark

 

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Posted

Would Pro Seal sloshing the tanks work? Just a thought. 

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Posted

Barry,

look around on the forum, there are lots of discussions about it...pros = no ethanol deterioration of tanks, cons = some have had trouble with the seal releasing from the fiberglass and clogging filters, or leaving an un protected piece of fiberglass that the ethanol ate through and caused a leak.

you bought the 160hp O-320, so 100LL is in your future anyway...

If 100LL goes away, you and I both will be replacing our fiberglass tanks, so we can share the misery at least.

Ron

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Posted

Good news is the 100LL replacement will NOT be contaminated with ethanol, so your fiberglass will be fine.

The new fuel must be compatible with all of the other non-ethanol tolerant aircraft systems in existence.  For example, Swift works great with fiberglass tanks.

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Posted (edited)

Good news is the 100LL replacement will NOT be contaminated with ethanol, so your fiberglass will be fine.

The new fuel must be compatible with all of the other non-ethanol tolerant aircraft systems in existence.  For example, Swift works great with fiberglass tanks.

Barry,  If on a very rare occasion you have a need to use some Mogas in your 0-320, look for farm or marine gas with no ethanol - I ran mine on it a couple of times - You can get a tester from Spruce to test gas before putting it in your tanks.

I also used 4 gal regular Mogas mixed with 1 gallon 100LL and 2 ounces Marvel Mystery Oil as a regular mix in my C-75 because 100LL has 4 times the lead in it as the old 87.  Decalin helps keep plugs from fouling too.  "LL" was a bad Government lie!

Puregas is one site that will let you know who sells gas without the Iowa moonshine in it - I get mine at an MFA (Missouri Farm Association) gas station.   EDMO

Edited by EDMO
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Posted

Easier alcohol contamination tester is your normal sample collector and regular food coloring. 

Take your sample, add a couple drops of food coloring and shake.  If the fuel turns color, it's contaminated.  If the food coloring drops to the bottom it's good.  Food coloring is water based.  It will dissolve in the ethanol contamination, but will drop out of clean fuel. 

 

Ethanol fuel is is just another government boondoggle giving unprofitable farmers another welfare tit to suck. 

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Posted

All,

Gor the record, I will only be burning 100LL or 96 octane ethanol free Mogas. I have plenty of availability on both and no issues getting it in the future. I know different parts of the country have different available fuels. So, my post on ProSeal was just a thought to help whomever it could help. I have had plenty of experience with low octane ethanol fuel and have NO desire to use it in any aircraft in my future. So, my fiberglass tanks will be good to go!

Barry

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Posted

BTW, fuel cost is the least expensive cost to flying, but gets the most attention because that is what we pull our wallets out for more often for;))

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