Help! It's Friday the 13th, under an ice storm warning and I need guidance on my wing build! First: The center to center measurement of the holes for the wing attachment pins on the fuselage is 27 3/8". The book calls for a outside dimension of 30" on the wing spars (that's where you set you stops on the build horses). With 2 1/2" OD spars, I'm a 1/8" shy, should've measured 27 1/2". The spar openings on the ribs do measure 25" on the inside, which tally to 30". Question: Do I move the blocks in an 1/8" to hit the centers on the fuselage? I'll have to shave off the open end of the ribs to allow for this. The wing tanks do measure 24 3/4-7/8, so they are o.k. What would you do? Am I not seeing something? Second: I'm supposed to trim the trailing end of the ribs. This is one of the first things I'm to do. The end result of this step is to utilize a trailing edge cable. Doing this would give the appearance of a serrated edge like a ol' Spad. I want a straight trailing edge. I saw in the Wicks catalogue (still waiting on Aircraft Spruce) aluminum trailing edge, but don't know what it really is. Wicks only sells a 10' length so I'd have a splice. I saw efil 01's build on here and he used an aluminum trailing edge (great lookin' plane too!). Question: Where did you guys get the edge? Using the AL edge, did you just leave the trailing edge of the rib square instead of tapering the cap strip. Does anyone have any details; close up pictures, drawings of what you did? I remember seeing a build where they even reinforced a trailing edge by glueing tubing inside the angle. Akflyr? Third: I have to shave the spar stiffener down about an 1/16". What would be the best way to shave it and keep it true? A planer? Looking at the install, I'm thinkin', what a pain! Make a push stick and shove 'er in. Gotta a better way? Stiffener measures 2 3/8, ID of the spar (.083 wall) 2 5/16". It looks to me like the only thing that holds it in place when installed, is tail end of the rivets holdin the middle of the strut attach bracket. Right? Fourth: For structural adhesive I've got 3M 2216 Epoxy Adhesive. Sold in'89, it's as hard as a rock. Whadda y'all use? I have non-tautening nitrate dope (CPC Certified Coatings, vintage 1989). That's what the book calls for on all wooden parts. I trialed a piece of plywood with a couple of coats and it's not water repellant. It is powerful stuff and looks o.k. I do have Poly-Fiber epoxy varnish. Is that what I should use? I I'm gonna stop here for now. The answers to these questions will get me goin'. I sure would appreciate you guys lettin' me know what ya'. Somebody said the only stupid questions are the ones you don't ask! Well......... Wyatt     ,