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Looking for some landing gear part numbers

62 posts in this topic

Posted (edited)

I really do not care "if I am a part of whatever crowd you deem to be the in crowd"

I also do not need to hear that only two people in the world are the only ones who can figure out geometry configurations ,that was a rude remark that does not need interpretation

I never said anything about your "leverage method : whether right or wrong

I never said anything about you or your leverage at all

so why you posted what you did is beyond me

I guess I'll just go back to reading

and won't bother trying to participate in anything on this forum

if this is the way people react

Edit:

BTW

I was the only one who actual posted what the topic of his thread asked for

I was on topic...

but since you had to quote me,

like I was spreading crap about you,your leverage system and your friends

this has gotten way off topic

I quote my first post in this thread

Timken Bearing # LM 11900LA

Timken Bearing Race # LM 11910 + USA

Brake Linings 5/6" Brake #M66-106

You can dissect any post since

I spread no interruption of anything

You can dissect my posts

nowhere did I mention you,or your leverage system

About the only thing,not on Matco's installation manual

would be the 1/8 line to 1/4 line

If a guy can not even express an opinion on this forum

without being attacked over it

Being told only two people can figure something out

and that"They are not in that crowd"

well,I guess maybe this forum is not for me

Edited by John_L_Seagull

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Posted

I really do not care "if I am a part of whatever crowd you deem to be the in crowd"

BTW

I was the only one who actual posted what the topic of his thread asked for

I was on topic...

well,I guess maybe this forum is not for me

Stick around John. You have added valuable information on this site. And you were the only one who answered the post.

We can disagree and still respect each other, and sometimes have a laugh.

I get my tit in the wringer once in a while - but never claimed to walk on water either !

closed minds dont work anywhere.

Keep on Trucking, and writing.

Good Flying,

ED in MO

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Posted

Stick around John. You have added valuable information on this site. And you were the only one who answered the post.

We can disagree and still respect each other, and sometimes have a laugh.

I get my tit in the wringer once in a while - but never claimed to walk on water either !

closed minds dont work anywhere.

Keep on Trucking, and writing.

Good Flying,

ED in MO

Yes John,

Please stick around and keep posting.

And Ed,

I did post the part number for the brake pads.

Dave

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Posted (edited)

Yes John,

Please stick around and keep posting.

And Ed,

I did post the part number for the brake pads.

Dave

And, kick me again for only getting part of it right !!!

Thank you DAVE and JOHN for answering with the part numbers. You probably helped lots of Flyers.

Didn't mean to slight you, but you didnt threaten to quit.

I may screw up sometimes, but learn from that too.

Sometimes a simple question csn turn into an irrelevent debate, and that might, or might not, be useful.

I will only "quit" when voted out or banned. (No virgin here!)

ED in MO

Edited by Ed In Missouri

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Posted

I really do not care "if I am a part of whatever crowd you deem to be the in crowd"

I also do not need to hear that only two people in the world are the only ones who can figure out geometry configurations ,that was a rude remark that does not need interpretation

I never said anything about your "leverage method : whether right or wrong

I never said anything about you or your leverage at all

so why you posted what you did is beyond me

I guess I'll just go back to reading

and won't bother trying to participate in anything on this forum

if this is the way people react

Edit:

BTW

I was the only one who actual posted what the topic of his thread asked for

I was on topic...

but since you had to quote me,

like I was spreading crap about you,your leverage system and your friends

this has gotten way off topic

I quote my first post in this thread

You can dissect any post since

I spread no interruption of anything

You can dissect my posts

nowhere did I mention you,or your leverage system

About the only thing,not on Matco's installation manual

would be the 1/8 line to 1/4 line

If a guy can not even express an opinion on this forum

without being attacked over it

Being told only two people can figure something out

and that"They are not in that crowd"

well,I guess maybe this forum is not for me

NO NO NO I meant you are not a part of the group who have been emailing me over the years telling me my methods are invalid.That the knowledge in your post is demonstrating that to me.You said something like leverage in toe braking systems is tricky to determine or that toe braking systems are tricky to set up and I concurred with your statement saying only George Happ and the person he schooled had previously demonstrated how leverage is accurately determined....I'm not attacking you,where is this coming from.

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Posted

Yikes, I take off for a couple days to raft n play and a good internet fight breaks out.. Why the hell do I always miss the good stuff! :lol: Cmon guys, I think there may have been a lil misunderstanding that got someones panties in a knot. I do not think the intent on anyone's part to was to insult someone!

At any rate, I value EVERYONE'S thoughts and opinions on here and don't want to see anyone leave or stop posting.

John, have a beer, chill out a lil and don't read more into Mike's comment than was really there. I can see how you may have taken it, but I know that was not his intent. I have Mikes brakes on my bird too and they do provide all the braking power I need.

The only think I will disagree with is going from 1/8" lines to 1/4" lines... The Matco brakes are very very low volume systems and the masters move VERY little fluid. The smaller lines actually work better than the larger lines as you have to move even less fluid to get the same pressure. Atleast, when I switched from 1/4" to 1/8" then back to 1/4" then back to 1/8" I found that I had a little bit better brakes using the 1/8" line, but that was just my non scientific method of dropping into short strips and standing on them to help determine if I was indeed able to stop faster. All I care about is getting the bird stopped faster, and I can do that with the 1/8" lines.

I am off to mix a cold tall one and relax, hope you guys can do the same!

:BC:

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Posted

Having a tough time finding those bearings online. Spruce doesn't carry that part number. Went to the Timken website but it's about the most un user friendly site I've ever seen.

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Posted

For those that have bought Timken bearings before any idea what you get in the box with a set like this? Thinking it's probably one bearing and race but not sure. I contacted the seller on ebay too.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130711148225

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Posted

For those that have bought Timken bearings before any idea what you get in the box with a set like this? Thinking it's probably one bearing and race but not sure. I contacted the seller on ebay too.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130711148225

Been a long time since I bought bearings, but normally the box contains, inner race, bearing cage and rollers in one piece, plus another piece which is the matching outer race. Dont think they are packaged seperately, as they are a matched set.

ED in MO

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Posted

I heard back from the eBay seller it's one bearing and one race in the box. Wonder how much fun it's gonna be to get the old races out.

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Posted

I heard back from the eBay seller it's one bearing and one race in the box. Wonder how much fun it's gonna be to get the old races out.

I've replaced LOT's more races than I care to count from when I owned my mechanic business. try tapping on them with a punch if they don't come heat up the race real hot with a torch keeping the flame just on the race. once its real hot it may just fall out if not it shouldn't take much tapping to get it out.

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Posted

Joey - When I was running the Douglass wheels I priced the seals and bearings from my local NAPA or Car Quest (I don't remember which). The bearings were expensive (~ $30 ea) and would have to be ordered, but the seals were available - I did replace them several times because you wreck them removing them to pack the bearings.

To find them at the car parts store all you need to know it the .750" inside diameter and (I think) 1.500" outside diameter. They should be able to look them up in the bearing book from there. If you can find a dedicated bearing or automation supplier they may have them on hand, even.

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Posted (edited)

I heard back from the eBay seller it's one bearing and one race in the box. Wonder how much fun it's gonna be to get the old races out.

The inner race should be easy. Clean the inside of the wheel and use a brass punch and hammer and keep going around the outer race until you drive it out. Put the new race in the same way, or, you can drive the race in with a tube or pipe that is slightly smaller. Schedule 40 PVC will work too, if you find the right size.

A press will work too, but manual press is better - you can ruin a wheel with a hydraulic press.

Something else that helps, is to freeze the outer race (the big one) before you drive it in, and the inner race (the small one) should be as warm as you can get it without torching it.

ED in MO

Edited by Ed In Missouri

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Posted (edited)

I've replaced LOT's more races than I care to count from when I owned my mechanic business. try tapping on them with a punch if they don't come heat up the race real hot with a torch keeping the flame just on the race. once its real hot it may just fall out if not it shouldn't take much tapping to get it out.

Robert,

This may be one time I partly DISAGREE. Heating the inner race on the axle MIGHT be OK if too much heat is not used.

I would never put a torch on an aircraft wheel.

Torching the outer race actually makes it tighter as it expands. Cast iron auto drums are a different matter. To remove a pressed in or shrink-fitted part, you normally heat the outside part and use ice or dry ice to shrink the inside part. This is done on nose forks by freezing the tube and putting the aluminum fork in hot water, then the tube can be pressed out.

ED in MO

Edited by Ed In Missouri

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Posted

Joey - When I was running the Douglass wheels I priced the seals and bearings from my local NAPA or Car Quest (I don't remember which). The bearings were expensive (~ $30 ea) and would have to be ordered, but the seals were available - I did replace them several times because you wreck them removing them to pack the bearings.

To find them at the car parts store all you need to know it the .750" inside diameter and (I think) 1.500" outside diameter. They should be able to look them up in the bearing book from there. If you can find a dedicated bearing or automation supplier they may have them on hand, even.

They are usually cheaper at a bearing supply house, like Bruening Bearings. That is who the auto-suppliers buy them from, and jack up the price.

ED in MO

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Posted (edited)

Motion Industries is usually reasonable and if they dont have it on hand they'll have it next day in most cases. I think they have several locations in CA.

Edited by birddog486

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Posted

The inner race should be easy. Clean the inside of the wheel and use a brass punch and hammer and keep going around the outer race until you drive it out. Put the new race in the same way, or, you can drive the race in with a tube or pipe that is slightly smaller. Schedule 40 PVC will work too, if you find the right size.

A press will work too, but manual press is better - you can ruin a wheel with a hydraulic press.

Something else that helps, is to freeze the outer race (the big one) before you drive it in, and the inner race (the small one) should be as warm as you can get it without torching it.

ED in MO

Do to the difference in thermal expansion (Aluminum being greater). I would heat the hub with a heat gun and the race will come out easier.

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Posted

I think you'll find that the races will tap out of the aluminum wheels, using a drift or socket, fairly easily without the need for heat.

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Posted (edited)

Do to the difference in thermal expansion (Aluminum being greater). I would heat the hub with a heat gun and the race will come out easier.

Somewhere in the books it says, "aluminum heat-treat will be ruined if heated to more that 212F (hot water)".

Believe that is in AC43-13?

But, I do not know if his Douglas wheels are aluminum or steel.

ED in MO

Edited by Ed In Missouri

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Posted

The inner race should be easy. Clean the inside of the wheel and use a brass punch and hammer and keep going around the outer race until you drive it out. Put the new race in the same way, or, you can drive the race in with a tube or pipe that is slightly smaller. Schedule 40 PVC will work too, if you find the right size.

A press will work too, but manual press is better - you can ruin a wheel with a hydraulic press.

Something else that helps, is to freeze the outer race (the big one) before you drive it in, and the inner race (the small one) should be as warm as you can get it without torching it.

ED in MO

And, just to be complete: I could have mentioned that there are bearing pullers, threasded, slide-hammer, and hydraulic, that you could buy, but why spend money when you dont have to.

ED in MO

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Posted

Wow glad to see we are back on track. The reason I really like this forum is because everyone shares information and their experiences without trying to discount other people's ideas. Glad to see this was just an unintentional misunderstanding. Heck, when it was said only two people understood brake geometry and one was George Happ, I figured the other person had to be me. :lmao: If we all agreed on everything I think all of our airplanes would be exactly the same. I want to thank everyone on here for giving me great ideas and information.

Hope the bearing races come out OK Joey. I have changed out one set on my original Matco wheels on my MK 4 because the original owner over torqued the bolts that hold the halves together and cracked both wheels. The bearing races came out fairly easily though without heating; just made sure the wheels were flat on a piece of plywood and used a good sized punch and hand sledge. I think the steel race in the aluminum wheel cannot get locked in quite as tight as a steel race in a cast iron auto hub.

One thing that I have been doing to lube my bearings every year when I change from skis to wheels is to use a needle tip in my grease gun and inject the grease on the inside of the bearing inside of the cage between the bearing rollers. You don't have to replace the seals that way. Just a tip that works for me.

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Posted

Having a tough time finding those bearings online. Spruce doesn't carry that part number. Went to the Timken website but it's about the most un user friendly site I've ever seen.

Bill 8/3/2004 - Has to get one in, will call me back.

McGuire Bearing 208-342-2281 Ordered 8/9/2004 Steve

1 2 Hub Shaft Seal 7/8IDx1.575ODx1/4Thick 08152SB 6.08 12.16

Cross for CR 8763

Joey,

I have ordered new seals from these guys, give em a try.

Mark

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Posted

Bringing this topic back from the dead. I never did end up replacing my bearings the last time I had my gear apart but I am going to take it all apart again to do my bush gear again. Seems I can find the LM11900 bearing and no race or the vice versa. Amazon has the bearings fairly cheap but if you put in LM11910 for the race you get 3 different things. Once they call a race, one they call a wheel bearing, and one is from some other company. They all look like a race but the prices are all different too. What a pain. Has anyone successfully recently bought tapered bearings, races, and a seals for the douglas wheel set up?? If so where did you get them?

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