Activity Stream

Activity Stream

  1. BryceKat added a post in a topic Cabin Heat   

    Hey Leni,
    Can you please make a video of your heater? I've read this a bunch of times and still don't get it! It's not your right up, it's me ! Thanks,Bryce
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  2. BryceKat added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    Parade Pictures Post Up
    Hey Guys,
    We had our Christmas Parade today and here are some pics.

    1. Her Hotness, our Avid Diva, and Me

    2. Her Hotness in Position

    3. The whole get up! Note the wind sock on tow vehicles antenna and the roof ornamentation!
    Enjoy! Bryce
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  3. akflyer added a post in a topic EGT Temps   


    YIKES! The screws on the side of the carb?? Those are the air bleeds for the idle, has NOTHING to do with the high speed. All the way in I am surprised it will idle at all! Those should be out 1 1/2 turns for a good starting point.

    #1 Have your sync'ed your carbs? Make sure they are opening exactly the same, at the same time. This sounds like it could be your issue. http://www.avidfoxflyers.com/index.php?/topic/969-anatomy-of-a-carb-sync-how-do-you-know-which-one-to-adjust/

    #2 You may have some crap in your carbs that is plugging them up.
    #3 LOWER the needle clip, that will RAISE the needle and richen it up. I would also swap the probes and see if the trend follows the probe or the cylinder first. 25-50 degrees is pretty much normal for a difference, but they should not be out more than that.


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  4. TheDeltaFox added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    EGT Temps
    Hey Everyone,

    I finally got out to do some work on the plane and go flying today. Felt awesome to be in the air with my Avid again. The thing jumped off the ground about 1 second after full throttle and probably set a new stopping record at my airport when I landed a few feet short of the pavement.

    I'm a two stroke noob and have been trying to get my egt's to show the same on both cyclinders. At the lower temps it runs about 75-100 degrees difference and at the high end its maybe 50 or less off. The thing is that when I'm at full throttle or running anywheres above roughly 5500 rpm the one egt creeps to 1200 or slightly higher while the other one is at 1150 ish. Normally its turning 6200 rpm at full throttle on the ground and tied to my truck. I turned both mixture needles (the little ones beside the big idle screws) fully in so it should be running at full rich; right? I'm wondering if one egt probe is off or something. I've ground run it a bunch and can't seem to figure it out. Should i raise the needle clips 1 notch and see if that helps?

    Any advice would be super appreciated. I love flying this thing but don't want to cook the engine.

    Thanks,
    Darcy
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  5. SuberAvid added a post in a topic To the lurkers   

    Those pictures are great Willis. A nice looking KF and I love those air to air shots.

    Leni, I am still on dial up so the smaller pics are the only ones I can reasonably open. I like them smaller but I know I am using acient technology.
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  6. dholly added a post in a topic To the lurkers   

    Once you get the program installed and have run through the steps to resize a pic a few times, you'll realize it goes pretty quick.
    Now lets see some a bunch of those favorite pics you got stored away!
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  7. akflyer added a post in a topic To the lurkers   

    If you guys want, I can set it up so it will show the pics at 800X600 max. It is just a few clicks of the button for me. I like the big pics but I know some of you guys are still on dial up so the big pics probly take forever to load up for you guys..

    Let me know, majority rules


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  8. marshawk added a post in a topic To the lurkers   

    Great explaination Doug, I couldn't figure it out either. Heres a couple pictures of my kitfox in late october if I did all the right steps Doug I received the 3 piece kitfox 5 cowl from Chris for the fat avid, what a great guy. It looks like my avid will be getting even fatter, the cowling is about 6" wider at the firewall(lots of room under there for the soob) but I think I can make it work.We just finished fabing up some brake pedals so now we can work on windsheild ,firewall etc.and get a better idea how its going to work out. I post a picture if we get looking ok.

    Thanks again guys for the great site

    Willis


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  9. akflyer added a post in a topic Tundra tires   


    How many PSI are you running in the airstreaks?

    Ahhhh.. I now remember reading about the events that led up to your lil pirroette on one of the other sites. To be honest, I too have made a few down wind landings just to go with the flow. I think I will use your incident as a great reminder that we are not forced to follow idiots in the pattern if they are doing something that is unsafe, or just not quite right. Our #1 duty is to complete the flight SAFELY as seen in our eyes at the time.


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  10. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic 582 Cruise RPMs   

    I typically cruised between 5000 and 5800 depending on if I was in a hurry. I had an in flight mixture control and found that I could get very good fuel economy in the 5200-5400 ROM range leaned to around 1150 EGT.

    Chris Bolkan
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  11. SuberAvid added a post in a topic Tundra tires   

    Great discussion; I'll add my . It sounds like the Aero classics that Airdale is offering are probably a good way to go if you don't really need to roll over nasty stuff and budget is critical. I also have to say that the 25x12x9 2 ply ATV tires that I cut and ground all of the tread off of and made up a set of 9" Douglas rims for (had brake tabs welded in and machined) actually worked very well. I didn't fly them too long but they were very absorbing of bumps and handled fine. The cost was in getting the hubs and wheels but once done the cost of replacement tires is relatively cheap.

    I avoid pavement like the plague with my Bushwheels. I have found that when I have to land them on pavement I need to really pay attention; and I can just feel the money getting worn off when they chirp. I will land on the grass or gravel alongside the runway if I can't find a gravel strip but there is risk in that if you have not been able to check it out for ruts and obstructions first.

    Those nose draggers...Sheesh, what can I say
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  12. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic Tundra tires   


    Actually I haven't found the airstreaks difficult at all to land on pavement. They seem to work just fine, and certainly no worse than the 850's I was referring to. However, the airstreaks are not near as big and heavy as the 31's you are talking about.

    My not so good landing experience you are referring to was on the 800-6's after I had removed the Airstreaks. I let myself get sucked into a traffic pattern full of nose draggers all landing with a tailwind. Rather than do what it took to land the direction I should have, I went ahead and joined the crowd. I thought I would be fine. Unfortunately things didn't go as I anticipated. I ended up in an unexpected and very abrupt groundloop.

    Live and learn. I've told my friends I won't make that series of mistakes again. I'll make plenty of others, but not those. I'm almost done fixing the plane and fortunately all damage was cosmetic except the landing gear spring and it is even now repaired to new spec and back in my hands ready to install.

    Chris
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  13. Avid67 added a post in a topic To the lurkers   

    I'm leaving your answer because that was exactly what I was looking for. I hope others find your answer very helpful so we can help Leni fill the server with pics and vids. I too use XP so I'll get the program you suggested.
    Thanks all
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  14. dholly added a post in a topic To the lurkers   

    Bill-
    Leni describes how to download pics and attach pics to your post. When one clicks on your pic thumbnail it will open a full size version that is dependent on the original size and resolution of the pic as originally saved on your computer. That is why some pictures open up to such gargantuan size that you actually have to scroll around and can only see a small section of the pic at a time. Some forum software automatically pics downloaded to post, this one does not (which I strongly prefer), so the solution is to resize the pic before you download and attach it to your post here. How to do that depends on what Windows OS (operating system) you have. Go to your Pictures Folder > hover your cursor over a photo thumbnail > right click. If you have an image resizer program already installed, it should show on the short-cut menu that pops up. If nothing shows up and you have Microsoft XP, Google and download Microsoft Powertoys Image Resizer, install it. Once installed: Go to your Pictures Folder > hover your cursor over a photo thumbnail > right click > select Medium Size > OK. Or, you can even just right-click on one or more image files in Windows Explorer > choose the option and quickly resize the selected image(s) without opening an image editor (as pictured in my attachment below). This will create and place a copy of your original pic in the same Pictures Folder, resized to 800 x 600. Then, when you browse for and select a pic to attach to your post, just look for the photo in your Pic Folder with the [your file description].(Medium).jpg. One of the biggest requests by Vista users was for Microsoft to port the Windows XP's PowerToys to the newer operating system, but the company never did. Whether another resizer application has been made resident in the Windows Vista Premium or Professional, or in the Vista Media program(s), I don't know (still using XP on account of my biz program requirements here). I do recall there were several free open source resizer programs written for Vista to mimic the XP PowerToy... Google is your friend.
    Hope that helps,
    Doug

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  15. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic Tundra tires   


    Those look sweet. What make/model/size are they?
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  16. akflyer added a post in a topic Understanding the Ground Adjustable Prop   



    Coarser prop pitch will LOWER the EGT's on a 2 stroke, not certain on a 4 stroke.


    Unless you have an IVO ground adjust. Then you just need a screw driver and a large crescent wrench and you can change pitch in under 1 minute.


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  17. akflyer added a post in a topic To the lurkers   


    just hit the click to attach file button right under the box your typing in and then upload your photo. The software will show a thumbnail in your post, but when you click it it will open up full size.


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  18. dholly added a topic in Technical tasks   

    Understanding the Ground Adjustable Prop
    Thursday, 29 September 2011 17:33

    Understanding the Ground Adjustable Prop

    Written by Rotax Owner

    Keeping it simple and effective for the common setup


    Let's discuss prop pitch and how it affects flight characteristics. It can help flight characteristics or it can hinder. I'm often asked; What's the correct prop pitch for a specific plane? There is no single answer as many props are available to us today for Rotax engines and for different fuselages. There are, however, some commonalities and that is where we are headed in this article.

    Certain principles do apply in either the 2 stroke or 4 stroke engines, although the numbers will be different, as with most ground adjustable props. This article won't get into all the designs, blade twists, angles, thrusts, shaft powers, etc...etc. Whoa, just thinking about it puts my brain in a tail-spin. We are going to keep it simple and easy to follow. I am going to use the Rotax 912ULS as an example.

    First let's pick a few numbers to keep in the back of our minds for later. We are going to shoot for certain idle rpm, so let's pick 1800 +/- rpm and 5500 + rpm for wide open throttle (WOT), flat and level at your average cruise altitude. It wouldn't make sense to set a prop for sea level when you are at 8,000' msl all the time. Why 5500 rpm as a target? That is the "continuous run" rpm Rotax recommends for the Rotax 912ULS and that rpm can be flown all the time if you chose to do so. Another good reason would be if you were to break a cable or had a throttle control failure. One carb would probably go wide open, as it's supposed to do and then you could advance your throttle and have the other carb go wide open. You could then fly to wherever you needed for hours; shut down and land. Anything over 5500 rpm (i.e. 5600-5800 rpm) would limit you to a 5 minute run time. This is just a little benefit for the 5500 target rpm, but not a determining factor. A prop manufacturer will usually have some instructions for their prop and sometimes a suggested starting point for pitch depending on the engine. Another often asked question is, What should my static rpm be? There is no specific or accurate answer for everyone's engine and prop. The static won't mean much if you only want to fine tune your existing setup. Static is more important for the first run owners or for new prop installation. The static rpm setting is just to get you in the ballpark and then you will need to fine tune it for your specific aircraft while flying WOT at your average altitude. So keeping it simple, you will want to set the pitch on most props to achieve a target with a beginning static (ground run) WOT rpm of around 4950-5100 rpm, but your static rpm may be slightly different depending on what you wanted for a final in flight WOT rpm outcome.

    (Note: These next figures are general and yours may vary slightly) To do this properly, you will need to go fly at your average cruise altitude and fly flat and level at WOT for at least 1 minute. Now if your WOT rpm at this time is 5500 rpm and up to 5600 rpm you're probably set up fairly well for your engine, temperatures and fuel economy. If you are up at 5700+ rpm (150-200 rpm which could be high for your circumstances) then you may want to land and add a little pitch (about 1 - 1.25 degrees) back into the prop pitch, which will make it more coarse.

    If you already have your prop setup is only turning 5200 rpm WOT flat and level you need to flatten or reduce the pitch approximately 2 degrees to achieve 5500+ rpm. Now you may have some special circumstance like a float equipped aircraft (heavy aircraft) that needs a little better climb, so a climb pitch of 5600-5675 rpm WOT might be warranted. We need to tune our props for the type of flying that we do.

    What else does my prop pitch do for me?

    Setting the prop pitch excessively coarse (i.e. 5000-5200 rpm WOT) causes excessive stress on engine components and gearbox which may necessitate early maintenance. Having the pitch too coarse will cause higher engine (CHT, EGT) and oil temperatures, excessive fuel consumption, poor climb and decreased cruise speed. Your engine doesn't have the horse power and torque to turn an excessively pitched prop. All piston engines have their limits and the props all have limits, too. So if your engine temps are up and your WOT engine rpm is below 5500 rpm try unloading the engine by reducing the prop pitch. If you have a prop that is too flat then it may climb well, but have a loss in cruise speed and of course engine temps and fuel are affected again.

    Your exact numbers may vary some, but you now have a general idea on what to look for and how it may affect your flying and engine. We'll keep this discussion on the root topic of ground adjustable props. Special circumstance rpm settings and constant speed props will warrant discussion in a future article.

    One last parting comment: If adjusting prop pitch sounds complicated, it isn't; it usually will only take 30-40 minutes, a couple of wrenches, a prop protractor and/or a level. So take the time to fine tune, your engine will say thank you in improved performance.


    Related Videos: Propeller Strike Inspection | Crankshaft Out Of Round Inspection | Crankshaft Distortion Inspection | Preventing Detonation - 4 Stroke
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  19. dholly added a topic in Technical tasks   

    Anatomy of a Carb Sync - How do you know which one to adjust?
    Thursday, 08 December 2011 21:25

    The Anatomy of a Carb Sync

    Written by Rotax Owner

    How do you know which one to adjust?



    The carburetor sync on a 2 stroke or 4 stroke ROTAX Engine is one of the most important functions to keep up with for the health of your engine.

    Let’s take a look at performing a carb sync on a 912 series engine. The carb sync is nothing to be afraid of and with a few times at bat, performing this function will become fairly easy. First, why is it so important? The carb sync should be done anytime the carbs or throttle cables are removed or adjusted and at the 100 hour or Annual Condition Inspections. The reason for this is cables stretch, cable hysteresis (cable stickiness), pulley system wear, cables slip and because parts wear and end up with more tolerances. The carbs are almost always out of sync at each 100 hours or the Annual. If you did a carb sync back at the last inspection then they may not be out of sync much, but they will in most cases be out at least a bit. The sync instrument should also be used to set the idle sync if you change idle settings. Let’s start off with thinking of the engine as two engines, a left side and a right side. Two carbs controlling different sides of the engine. You don’t want one side trying to operate at 5000 rpm while the other side is trying to operate at 5100 rpm. These opposing rpms will cause excessive stress and wear on your engine over time and possible damage. You say there is a balance tube in between to help balance them out. The operative word in that sentence is “helpâ€. The balance tube can correct and help with small differences between the two carbs, but it is not a cure all and it is there to help make the system run a little smoother than if there was no connection or correlation between the two carbs...

    So which sync instrument to use? Well that is up to you, but here are a few considerations. You might use an electronic sync instrument like a CarbMate, Syncromate or a set of gauges. Here are a few pros and cons of each sync instrument. The electronic instrument may have the capability to split hairs and give you a very fine adjustment, but they are harder to interpret as far as knowing which carb you want to adjust to achieve a specific goal to bring the two carb vacuums together. It takes more time and going back and forth to get this accuracy. You also need a power supply like your battery to attach electrical leads to operate the instrument. There is nothing wrong with this, it’s just different. The standard type dial gauges (liquid filled are better for dampening with needle valves in line to assist for dampening needle pulsation) allow the user to see immediately which carb he needs to adjust and how much he may need to make this adjustment. This writers’ one thought here is; does the accuracy of an electronic device to split hairs that fine over a gauge really make a difference and can the carbs and engine really tell the difference? If you pay attention to detail and use good gauges you can be very accurate. The drawback to standard gauges is they may not be as accurate as the electronic tools are. Picking one of these sync instruments is strictly up to the end user and their personal preference, both systems are acceptable.

    Let’s move on to the actual anatomy of the sync and what to look for. I would like this discussion to be on the use of the gauges because it will offer some visual numbers to work with and helps in the understanding of this article. First the engine should be up to operating temperature. Safety first so put in place wheel chocks, hearing protection, eye protection and a person at the controls for safety. Now you need to separate both carbs. You can use hose pinch pliers to clamp off the rubber hose used to connect the balance tube between the intake manifolds or just remove one side rubber hose off the air intake and plug your gauge into the rubber hose end and the other over the metal nipple it was attached to. Later model engines have two small screws, one on top of each air intake manifold you can attach your sync instruments into also, but you still need to address isolating the carbs by either clamping off or plugging the cross over tube we discussed earlier. This writer prefers to slide the cross over tube rubber hose back off one intake manifold since it makes sure the carbs are fully isolated while preventing any hose pinching damage from using pliers to squeeze the rubber hose instead. This is only what I prefer, it’s up to you to choose your method.

    There are two syncs to perform, the mechanical sync and the pneumatic sync. The mechanical sync is really well explained in the Rotax Owners video (http://www.rotax-own...-exp-si-912-018) and I recommend anyone wanting to perform this task to watch this e-learning video! As well the procedure is also described (although not in quite the same detail) in the Rotax Line Maintenance manual, either way with proper knowledge it’s quick and easy to perform. So now you’re all set in your safety gear so have your safety cockpit operator start the engine. (Don’t forget to advise them that if they see you spin more than three times in the prop to turn the engine off! Also make sure your cockpit manager likes you and don’t use your wife right after an argument with her! )

    Now we have the engine running and we take a look at our gauge set. If the needles are pulsating then close the needle valves slightly until they stop and become smooth. Set the RPM to slightly more than idle (off-idle as Rotax calls it). Idle and low RPM is the most critical RPM for smoothness as the power pulses are very pronounced and the gearbox will be working hard as it must settle this argument between the piston power pulses and the huge inertia of the prop. At RPMs over 3000 the engine becomes smoother and the shaking is less pronounced. Let’s mention here that to change the RPMs you adjust the Bowden cable screw either in or out which will add or subtract some rpm. You use the carb idle adjustment stop screw to affect the engine idle only. You do sometimes need to adjust the Bowden cable length to get the idle screw to have enough affect, but we can cross that bridge later.

    Okay back to our running engine. Have your cockpit operator advance the throttle up to at least 2000 RPM and check to assure your still in sync, if so continue to advance the throttle all the way up to at least 3500 RPM minimum to assure your high speed sync remains matched. Assuming that’s still working continue to even higher RPM’s just to make sure the carbs remain balanced to the higher power settings respecting the fact you need to assure you are out of the prop blast and the aircraft remains secure. If at the higher RPM’s you don’t remain balanced one of two things might be happening. Because an engine well synced at 2000 RPM should hold that sync all the way to full throttle, if it doesn’t you either have binding in the cables or there is something hanging up in your throttle system not allowing the throttle arms on the carbs to move uniformly with one another. If so; check and correct. The second and much more remote possibility is you have a cylinder that is falling off line due to a hanging up valve or other issue. This is very unlikely on a Rotax but I mention it because even though it rarely happens it might save someone from scratching their heads after verifying the throttle actuation of the cables and throttle levers is all working properly yet an out of sync condition remains. So, backing up to the first off idle sync check at 2000 RPM, let’s say you look at the gauges and see that the left side is at 5†of vacuum (more fuel) and the right side is at 6†of vacuum (less fuel). (Vacuum is expressed in inches of water “H2O or inches of mercury “Hg) The higher the vacuum in our case (6â€), the harder the carb is trying to draw in air and fuel, leaner , less fuel. The lower the vacuum (5â€) the more fuel it is receiving (richer). Keep this in your head about vacuum, the higher number is less fuel (leaner)and the lower the vacuum number, more fuel (richer). Now let’s go to the left side and loosen the Bowden adjustment nuts and screw it back out toward the cable and shorten the cable which pulls the throttle arm and reduces the rpm and fuel flow. Adjust it back until its 5†moves to 6†like the 6†on the right side. Now they should both be equal at 6†of vacuum at 2000RPM allowing you to proceed to the higher RPM checks. If you went to adjust this left side and the adjustment was already way back and you didn’t have enough adjustment there to pull it back any farther then you have two choices. Go to the other side and adjust that Bowden cable adjuster forward to lengthen it and lower the vacuum towards the left side. The other thing you may need to do is shut down the engine, screw the Bowden cable adjustment in towards the half way position and then loosen the cable at the throttle arm screw and shorten it by 1/16†to give you more room to adjust the Bowden cable adjuster farther back on that left side. Sometimes because of how these are setup you may need to adjust one side back a tad and adjust the other side forwards a tad to make them equal and not run out of adjustment on either side.

    Now pull the throttle back to idle and see where it is. If you have a 912ULS a good idle is around 1750-1850 rpm to stay above the low RPM vibration and hammering the higher compression of this engine has(it doesn’t like really low idle settings so they should be avoided). Now if your idle is too high after you pulled the throttle back then look at the gauge and see which gauge has the lower vacuum number. Remember the lower the number the more fuel it is receiving. Let’s say the idle rpm is 1900 rpm and you want 1800 rpm. The right carb gauge is at 12†and the left carb is at 11â€. The carb on the left side is getting more fuel and the rpm is too high. So that is the carb we want to reduce the rpm on and raise the vacuum to get to 12†like the right side. So you back out the idle stop screw and the 11†of vacuum raises to 12†of vacuum like the right side. If that made your idle rpm 1800 and you are happy then you’re done. If your idle rpms were still too high then back the idle stop screws out on both sides a little more until the idle rpm is where you want it and the vacuum on both sides is equal. Always double check your work. Run the engine back up to 3500+ rpm and see if the needles are still equal and if not then you may have hysteresis, a broken strand or some other factor causing unequal cable movement that needs attention(or as discussed earlier, that lazy cylinder, another topic for another time). Then back to idle to check that vacuum setting and the idle rpm. If you idle for a long time making an adjustment then run the engine up for a few seconds now and then to help keep it cleared out and from loading up at those low rpms. If your idle rpm was too low (1600 rpm) then screw the idle stop screw in more on the carb with the higher vacuum 12†down to 11†until the vacuum number lowers to match the other side of 11â€and the idle comes up where you want it.

    After you have doubled checked your work then shut down the engine and make sure all the jam nuts to the Bowden cable adjuster are snug. Remove the gauge set and connect the carb balance tube setup. Even after a sync the engine may be slightly rougher with the carbs balance tube separated, but should be a little smoother when it is reconnected.

    Two last parting comments. The throttle control system in your cockpit at idle should have an idle stop on it and when you pull it back to its stop at idle then the idle stop screw on the carb should just make contact at the same time. If you do not have a throttle stop for idle in the cockpit then you will most likely bend the idle stop levers on the carbs due to the leverage advantage you gain from the cockpit throttle control. This over powering of the idle stops on the carbs will result in the idle ending up too low. This continuous bending towards lower idle could also lead to a much bigger chance of stalling your engine from low rpm in flight and it won’t be when you want it to quit. Pay attention to how your aircraft design addresses this issue and adjust accordingly!

    Second; You should check the balance of the carbs at both high rpm and at idle. I have seen some back off the idle stop screw until it no longer functions and that means the carbs can only be synced at the higher rpms and not at idle. That means the engine is operating at idle at opposing rpms. If you thought it was important to sync your carbs at the higher rpms to keep them from opposing each other, reduce vibration and from hammering the engine why on earth would anyone not sync them at idle? This is a poor practice to get into. You spend a lot of time idling. Remember what our Dad’s told us; “If it’s worth doing, it’s worth doing rightâ€.

    I know this was a long article, but I thought it may be worth covering for some Rotax owners. If you fell asleep half way through, print it out and take it to the airfield.

    FLY SAFE AND FAR AND ABOVE ALL, HAVE FUN LIVING YOUR DREAM OF FLIGHT!

    p.s.

    Your Rotax engine will give many hours of trouble free operation, just follow the Rotax manuals and provide it with the prescribed on time maintenance. Many of these maintenance topics are covered in greater detail in the video section of the Rotax-Owner web site, click here for a complete list: http://joomla.rotax-....com/all-videos


    Related E-Learning Videos:

    Carburetor Synchronization

    Carburetor Balance - 2 Stroke

    Bing 54 Carburetor Rebuild - 2 Stroke

    Carburetor Needle Position Adjustment

    Related Product Review Video:

    Product Review - CarbMate
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  20. C150L added a post in a topic One of my boys and my C build.   

    Jumping out of sequence on order of pictures I want to post in this topic, but here goes.

    The (used) Kitfox controls stick bolted directly to the existing Avid controls stick mounting brackets. If we were not relocating the ,mixer to under the seat, I'm sure this KF mixer would have bolted directly in the Avid mixer mounts as well.

    Thanks Doug. With ssooo much left to build for this project, I can just about imagine how many hours we've saved with these KF parts.



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  21. Avid67 added a post in a topic To the lurkers   

    Hey Leni,
    Remind some of us how to publish the thumbnail and then have it come out to the right size. (Viewable)
    Thanks,Bill
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  22. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic Tundra tires   

    Here's a (bad) shot of my plane with my new "poorman's bush tires" on it. They are AeroClassic 21 x 8.00 x 6. They are 4-ply so they are light (11#) with tube. I don't hav a lot of time on them, yet, but, so far I love them.

    Airdale is a distributor for these and they can be had for a little more than $100 each.

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  23. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic Thanks Larry! Elevator linkage bolt issue   

    I've never seen a clevis bolt like that before. BUT, that groove is very uniform and even...

    Here is some clevis bolt information: Link

    This is an AN "clevis"bolt


    This is a shoulder bolt. Kinda looks like your example...


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  24. akflyer added a post in a topic Tundra tires   



    I would not worry too much about wearing them out to quick. We have guys here with years on them on the cubs. Just try to limit the pavement landings cause they can make the ride intersting... but I think you may have found that out already! My first lesson in a TD was in a PA 12 with 31" on it.. holy shit did that get exciting! That was the last take off or landing I did with those tires on pavement for years! Even now, a couple thousand hours and a few thousand landings, I still stay off the pavement with big tires. Not because I am worried about wearing them out, but because with 2-3 PSI in them, it gets real dicey if you have any kind of cross wind or are not prefectly straight when you touch down. Them sumbitches will grab and then your just along for the ride!


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  25. akflyer added a post in a topic Thanks Larry! Elevator linkage bolt issue   

    can you stack a couple washers on there to keep the horn out of the groove? Idont remember my bolt having that groove, but it has been a couple years since I put mine in.


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